I just appreciate the economy of not using more than I need.
That is great news. I was concerned that the stainless was going to wear out the machine more quickly, especially the cutter, from the the material being more tough.
I’d be more concerned about the wheel than the cutter. The wheel is plastic, cutter is steel. Wheel is readily replaced and it came with 2, if you don’t mind switching between raised and recessed letters.
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Next time I should eat lunch before going out for a grafting session.
I tried the rewind trick twice. I have to hold the trigger down partway like for an advance, then I can reverse and it does click each index. I probably did 10 clicks, which is apparently too much:
But I didn’t waste it:
Then apparently I went reverse psychology on the next one, but fortunately only 8 clicks 
Also didn’t waste it:
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So I received my Dymo. It still has some metal roll in it. I see the side wheel advances with each squeeze, but the tape is not loaded far enough in to get grabbed.
I looked a bit for a youtube video but didn’t find one.
If anyone can give me a link to some loading instructions that would be great.
I’d imagine its the same procedure to reload after you’ve used up a roll.
Thanks im advance!
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Thanks @Audi_o_phile
I had to remove the roll and refeed it. I think the seller got it jammed. Maybe that’s why I picked it up for $60!
I’ll be printing at the local coffee shop in the morning.
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Does anyone use a hole punch tool for the metal tags?
With that thin of a metal, I’d think it would be a cheap way to make a clean hole for tying.
I do, but on recycled aluminum mini blind slats. They are very thin and can be punch through easily with my kids’ old hole puncher. I don’t have the Dymo labeler metal tape so I’m not sure if it as thin.
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I like the hole punch that is built into my Dymo M1011. I tested out the slot making function but discovered that the landscape stakes that I make will fit perfectly through the round hole made by the punch.
Mine doesn’t have the cutting lever on it, nor a hole punch I think.
There’s no model number I can find on mine.
Andrew. Much appreciate the vintage instructions!
It looks like mine is either an M22 or M33. The end works of mine seems to be damaged or missing parts.
Good news: It works.
Less Good News: I waste a bit of the roll by needing to spool it out far enough to snip the metal. Backing up doesn’t really work as the metal tape does not respool in the handle holder but instead bows out under the handle, so I can’t back it up too far.
What I am doing instead is printing many in a row and cutting the tape afterwards to limot the space between each tree/graft embossing.
The hole punch button is there but does nothing.
All in all it works!
I think there may not have been metal tape when that embosser was made. The cut and punch functions were probably designed for plastic.
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Dude! I don’t know if time traveled or what, but thanks!
The schematic is just what I needed! Too bad you can’t buy parts.
Eben if I don’t get any additional functionality from mine, i can still use it.
Thanks
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My stainless tape from Aliexpress arrived today. They look identical to what I’ve been using (from memory) and should last me several years at my pace.
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@Audi_o_phile Sorry for the late response!
So yes, some of the issues that I have come across by using the aluminum instead of the stainless steel are the hole that you punched so you can put a wire through, after time the hole gets bigger until cuts through and then the label falls off.
I don think this is an issue because of chemical metal embrittlement, I think is more about aluminum being softer than stainless steel breaks or cuts away easily.
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How do y’all punch holes in the tags? I have been driving a nail through it like an ape, I mean it works but it bends it a bit. Doesn’t seem like an issue but perhaps in years to come it will become one.
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