After a few years I switched the reverse wheel. It makes the print indented instead of raised. With indented print I can easily trace in with a very fine tipped permanent marker which makes them MUCH more readable.
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Dymo makes aluminum tape. I prefer the stainless because I’m concerned the aluminum will tear, especially if I hang them with stainless wire.
I got the dedicated metal embossing tool that looks the same but doesn’t slip, after experimenting with Ebay vintage regular Dymos.
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I prefer the stainless steel too because the aluminum gets brittle and with time they brake off. Ask me how i know.
Where do you get your SS rolls from @murky
I bought a bunch a long time ago. It’s much more expensive now. I can’t find the link in my email.
I scored 6 rolls of aluminum for $8 from Ebay, but it was in 2013. I still have most of them because I don’t use it except when I couldn’t find a stainless roll.
I see a place that is $45 for 10 rolls stainless now.
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I haven’t received a confirmation email on my Dymo purchase. Hope it goes through.
I have a Dymo Rhino M1011 and that price for stainless rolls is much better than an alternate source that I had in mind. Would you be willing to share where you found it?
That’s not bad, do you know what is the name of the place?
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Sure, I don’t vouch for it, just found it in a Google search, it is unvetted… and now I don’t see it.
I’ve stumbled on lots perhaps too good to be true priced rolls on Aliexpress for “compatible” .
I’m a sucker, I’ve got to try it. I made sure to choose the 32500, the link of the three the corresponds to the stainless instead of the Aluminum or Aluminum with adhesive options.
Okay, $16 for 5 rolls before coupon. Supposed to arrive in a couple of weeks. I’ll report how it goes:
Hopefully their from the same factory that makes Dymo, and not junk.
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Thank you for sharing the link, it ended getting me over the hump of making my first ever order from AliExpress as well as actually ordering the additional tape that I need since I used up what came with my embosser.
I ended up ordering a related deal that showed at the bottom of the page. It was for 10 of the stainless 32500 rolls, supposedly Dymo brand, with shipping included for a grand total of $23.39.
I started with that one and switched. I use less than one a year normally. Anyway, if they work as well than we’re in good shape.
I’ve ordered plenty of stuff from AliExpress. Some stuff is identical to what I pay a lot more for on Amazon, and other stuff is junk.
It can also be misleading because they allow multiple items per listing and they always list the price of the least expensive in the search. So it could be just an accessory that they price making you think it is the price of the main thing.
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Here’s a good illustration. This is a graft from a year ago that I’d neglected to label, but did write on the tree with a sharpie:
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I found a way to manipulate the amount of tape that is ahead of the first letter imprinted and in the process use less of the label material here:
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Is it easier than a manual rewind and opening the tape cover to relieve the compression?
Please forgive me if this is not 100 percent correct (it was around October of 2023 when I last did this) but I just grabbed my M1011, and to the best of my recollection I used the manual rewind knob to reverse the label tape by five clicks immediately after using the label cutter function. I don’t think that I found it necessary to open the cover and retract the material back into the spool, but I found that this operation saved me lots of material.
I should try, it is wasteful to do the default. I don’t think it clicks when rewinding, but I bet I could judge by how much the infeeding tape bunches up. I do have some concern that if I leave that compression in the infeeding tape, it will make bigger advances until it is relieved. The purpose of trying to adjust the coil would be to relieve that stress.
Stainless tape is a lot springier and stiffer than aluminum or plastic.
The notion is kinda fresh in my mind because earlier this week I was making a label and forgot to add the date before advancing the 12 clicks to ready for cutoff. So I tried to rewind.
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Hmm, I’m holding up the lock trigger on the right side and rewinding the silver knob on the left side and I’ve got haptic detents to gauge my progress. Maybe yours has more use?
I just tried it with the remnant of aluminum tape that I have and it turns out that if I do not wind the material back into the spool, it does crimp it a bit when I squeeze the handle to imprint. I must have been winding it back in.
I’m going by loose memory once and I may have been doing more than one thing. You’re probably right.
The steel releases like a coiled spring and presses against the insides of the spool compartment cavity.
Yes, I’m afraid that the stainless material is going to be more challenging to work with. I’m now regretting ordering that instead of the aluminum. If I come up with a good working solution (like lining with a strip of Delrin or UHMW polyethylene) then I’ll report back.
I’d really like to know more about this. I have firsthand experience with the effects of chemical metal embrittlement and I’m wondering if this was actually a case of that @Ruben.
Are you opposed to having long tags, or just don’t like the waste? The steel rolls are longer than the aluminum rolls because the material is thinner.
I replaced functioning aluminum tags with stainless while I was out today. I’ve not lost steel tags with steel wire.
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