Are highs of 50s and low 60s adequate for grafting apples and pears. Too much free time and need something to do.
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Yes. I have never had any temperature-related problems grafting those, in fact never even consider it. I usually am grafting by the end of this month, and those are the temperatures I’m likely to be seeing. But my trees haven’t even leafed out yet, so we’ll see.
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I’ve done apples in the 30’s…rather cold to work without gloves.
Grafts may have been slower to heal and grow, but good results.
By first of March many days in 50’s and 60’s and a few 70’s this year, so definitely no issues so far with temps here in my area.
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Hey danzeb, just wondering how your grafts did last year, did you do some grafting after this post?
Do you recall what your overnight low temps were?
Anyone have a good rule of thumb for what the low temps can/should be if your daytime temps are in the 50s and 60s? This is for apple & pear, as the original post stated.
In the past I have grafted the last week of April into the first 2 weeks of May or so, just depending on the weather.
The next 2 weeks are forecast to be between 50 and 73 degrees, with lows anywhere from 49 to 24 degrees. @BlueBerry mentions GRAFTING in 30 degree weather… I am not that anxious to get grafting! 
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I’m in Zone 5a (southern Wisconsin) and I won’t be able to do most of my grafting until the second week in May. From what you said, I guess I don’t need to be too worried about starting too late?
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Did my first bench graft Monday to a M111 root I stole from a 5 year old apple tree. It’s potted up and outdoors. Today in 50’s last night around 25. I am anxious to get started…but my first rootstocks aren’t shipping for 2 days yet. I’m doing some pruning this afternoon, and cleaning up a bit of storm damage.
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aiden
grafting to existing trees in-ground or existing rootstocks in ground I am supposing works after 2 or 3 leaves are growing…after blooming even.
But, if the temps get hot, fresh bench grafts planted in full sun may suffer if a person waits too late in the season. (Potting them or putting in a nursery bed that is SHADED probably would take care of that worry).
Bare root nursery stock planted after the ground is thawed does better than planted in June, as well.
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I begin my bench grafts in April. Completed grafts are placed in a tub with potting soil and kept in the garage which stays above freezing but also remains cool on warm spring days. If I start to see bud swell I begin setting the tubs outside for the day, and get them planted out in the nursery bed as soon as possible.
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Probably the ideal scenario. Nice looking benchgrafts, Andy. (What is your take rate, percent that take or fail?)
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I’m well over 80% and usually am able to regraft the root stock either with a chip bud that same year or I dig them and do another bench graft the next spring. I didn’t do the math for 2019 spring grafting, my biggest problem was B.9 not surviving after I planted them out in the nursery bed, but there were only 10 of those. I attribute their demise to a really dry spring, even though I was hauling water to the nursery bed for the new grafts.
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Thanks. Between 77 and 93% is what I’ve gotten either bench grafting indoors and letting buds swell before planting or potting…or benchgrafting in 40 degree weather and immediately potting them outdoors…about the same % over a 5 year span. (If you had told me you were getting 99% by doing them like in your photos…then I would be persuaded to change my habits.) You’re better organized than I am I can see that. lol
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I have read that callus tissue forms best on apple and pear in that 50-60 temperature range. We store all of our bench grafts at that temperature for 2 weeks before we plant them out. For outside growing trees or root stock we like to wait for bud swell on the tree or root stock before grafting. I am sure you can go a bit earlier if you like but we generally have 95% take or better using those guidelines.
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Nighttime lows (4 hours) below freezing a concern?
Probably not, your scion should be completely dormant when you graft it, so freezing temps wont hurt the scion. The tree shouldnt be trying to grow if you are still routinely getting freezing temperatures. Personally I would try to avoid freezing temps, but dont think it is a deal breaker.
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Almost that time of the year! just ordered 10 M.111 rootstock and 13 Cherry Rootstock. I grafted a few M.111 last year and looking forward to see the growth on my successful grafts. I am located in NY temps are around mid 40s high and drop at night. Any suggestions when I should begin the grafting process? Last season I started at the end of March and stored the grafts in my heated basement. TYIA
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I didn’t keep records and I don’t remember. Whenever I did them they did OK.
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At what temperature does new leaf growth on apples turn black? Maybe 22F? 20?
I’d prefer my grafts didn’t go that low after grafting…but if they are still dormant, I don’t think failure of any significant % would result.
We are not likely in my estimation to be back in the TEENS here in KY, but low 20’s are probable.
My rootstocks won’t start arriving until late next week, or I would get started now.
But I can’t speak to Kansas or Connecticut or Wisconsin.
But waiting until danger of freezing weather is past shouldn’t be a problem either. Just keep the scions damp and cool while waiting.
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Sounds like we’re seeing the same results then. I plant out varieties in the nursery bed grouped by root stock, and I’ll be transferring to the orchard in the same manner.
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My rootstocks are arriving on Wednesday. I’m planning to start bench grafting right away and then store them in my garage similar to @AndySmith. Any advice on the next steps would be appreciated. I plan to move them to a nursery bed as the weather warms up but I’m not sure what the timeline is for that.
@AndySmith Why do you use potting soil? Would you recommend it?
I’ll probably try to find/start a thread on nursery bed creation when the time comes but any advice on that here is fine too.
Weather this week for context:
Takes approximately 2 weeks for the callus tissue to begin forming, we try and maintain the 50- 60 degree temperature for that time period. You can plant them out after the two weeks. Ideally you want the temperatures to stay above freezing at that point.
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