I wish I could say figs were easy for/on me I don’t remember the last time a plant brought home drop all leaves in 3 days from 1 watering. (FWIW, it didn’t die and bounced back later once I figure out what happened)
Despite the negative experiences I went through, I was able to overcome them with the help of members from the fig growing community, which I am grateful. I probably forgot to mention I start growing figs 2 months ago. How long have you guys been growing figs?
Consistent moisture level is important for figs. It is a little unusual to check the bottom of the pot instead of the top(pots can get heavy) but I 'll give it a try. Same with in ground trees. You can’t test the soil moisture a ft down easily and reliably.
Having said that, I understand what you are saying. I see you have a irrigation system so watering is not your daily concern once it is set up. I am thinking to do SIPs or run drip lines to take out watering variation.
I usually avoid using chemicals, organic or not in my garden. It is not my imagination that the hoppers activities drop to nothing after applying neem oil every 14 days. It also killed couple bees so I changed the spraying time to the evenings. I am a little worried using pyrethrin even though it is certified organic. I try to do the minimal in terms of spraying. Most of the time, the pests are taken care by their natural predators. When that is not sufficient, I try to find the safest alternative.
I have 10, 15, 30 gal root pouches. Was thinking to try them out due to their air pruning property, therefore, denser roots. If you feel it dries too quickly in your neck of the woods, it is gonna be a problem down here. I was thinking to do a combo of SIPs with air pruning. It looks doeable but it may not be appropriate for dry climate.
True root pouches probably would not work although you could try the hard air pruning pots? A combo Sip - air pruning might work. Or just use drip with a timer if you have a lot of cash with nothing to do with it.
I have been growing cacti and Tropical plants for 40 years. Although this is only my 4th season growing figs.
Yes, I totally agree. I lived in Northeast for many years and moved to SoCal recently so I have to relearn things as basic as soil and water in this area.[quote=“Richard, post:183, topic:11790”]
Both Neem and pyrethrin are are plant extracts.
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I knew they are natural but it is not the same as they are safe. Neem is actually much more complex than Pyrethrin. Usually I would prefer the simple one over the complex ones. But Pyrethrin in commerical form seems to be more toxic than the original extract.
I have similar fear with spinosad, which I use in granular form to kill pill bugs.
You don’t like SIPs. Why?
Well, some of the pots don’t have holes on the side, so checking requires lifting the bottom. But it is a good point you made. The soil dries quickly on top in our area.
You guys grow figs for a long time and I started 2 months ago. Give me a break!!
You are confusing consumer-grade pyrethrin with several things, including commercial-grade (applicator license required) and chemicals of similar name.
I’m well aware of this. I have said there are applications for Neem that I’d recommend. Yours is not one of them.
In my opinion you have irrational fears that impede your gardening.
They’re a great way propagate anaerobic disease and unwanted soil insect pests (in our environment).
So, the consumer grade ones are ok. I remember reading the inert ingredients they add to stabilize/prolong pyrethrin can increase its toxicity to fish and cats.
What kind of applications are appropriate? I got aphids but usually took care of them with soapy water or just let the ladybugs have them. The hoppers are persistent. Now, I am tempted to try Pyrethrin. I did use spinosad, just not in spray form.
How would it propagate anaerobic disease and soil pests?
Read the label and follow directions, esp. pest-specific ones if present.
Your application of Neem oil every 14 days was excessive.
Aphids are born pregnant. Soapy water washes them off the plants, killing the weaker of the newborns. The remaining climb back up the plant – or are carried there by ants. So basically the soap approach breeds stronger aphids. Neem oil will asphyxiate weak aphids. Again, it contributes to a stronger breed. Spinosad (as a spray) will kill newborn and young aphids, along with eggs of most insects. It also will penetrate soft leaf membranes and kill eggs eggs injected by some pests; e.g. leaf miners. Pyrethrin will kill aphids at any life stage. It will also kill grasshoppers and their eggs – provided it is at the correct dosage.
It’s a very good surfactant and depending upon what you are trying to control can be valuable in combination with other pesticides. But what you’ve been doing is strangling your fig roots with water and suffocating the leaf pores with Neem.
Further, your concept that Neem Oil is a fungicide/viricide is incorrect for pathogens in our environment. To control them you’ll need copper – no way around it. The consumer-grade product I’d recommend for you is “Liqui-Cop” under the Monterey Gardens brand.
While on the subject, the by-product of Neem Oil is Neem Seed – left over after they pass it through the “olive presses” to extract the oil. Neem Seed is high in Nitrogen, about 6%. A very good source for organic gardeners. Now don’t get all excited about possible pesticide benefits from Neem Seed – you’d have to apply it several feet thick.
After the water sits for a day it becomes anaerobic. The bacteria will get there and grow. The standing water source in soil is also a great environment for harmful soil larvae that live year-round here because of the lack of a hard freeze.
That is the type of leafhoppers I got. Its pic is on the front label of the neem oil bottle by Natria. They didn’t list leafhopper as one of the targeted insects though. Their recommendation is 7-14 days. I too feel it is excessive so I tried to extend it after 4 applications. The last one I did was 21 days as I see them back.
Aphids don’t stay for long and they are usually attracted to couple plants like the dill and radishes. I see ladybugs around often enough I know aphids are still around. The leafhopper’s taste is more diverse and they can kill plants by numbers.
I am seriously considering Pyrethrin and Spinosad. May be I will wear a hazmat suit when I spray
Our environment is usually dry enough fungi don’t have much chance. I mentioned that because it is on their label use. I know copper sulfate is probably better for fungicide purpose.
I too have some reservation on the SIP like wrapping it up including the top. You can do things to improve air flow. The overflow holes near the bottom should be lower to allow air flow into the aeration platform and the water reservoir below. Many people do it too high trying to maximize the water reservoir without leaving gap for air flow. And some will just do 1 overflow hole instead of 2 or more to allow for better air flow because when they did those holes, they were just thinking about water, not air.
Other simple things like using perforated HDPE pipe for support instead of solid pipes. And drill holes on the pot above the reservoir to improve aeration are simple things one can do to improve air flow on the SIP design and minimize anaerobic growth.
Unless you grow indoor plants, there is no easy way around that soil larvae problem(me thinking the grubs). We have all kinds of moths/pests laying their eggs on plants and soil year round. What do you think of beneficial predator nematodes? Do you think they can kill the grubs or whatever pests in the soil?
My other reservation with SIP is not air but the roots. Roots will get down to the reservoir even with landscape cloth but people say it doesn’t affect the plants. I have yet to ask people who have used SIP for a while of their opinions on long term use and maintenance of SIPs.
There are plenty of “good” soil larvae in our environment. But with a SIP you are inviting trouble.
Sure. Like a “tall” 15 gallon pot. With Kellogg’s Patio Mix. And if you don’t want to water by hand a few times a week, then $15 for a hose timer.
More people wanting to sell you things for problems you don’t have – other than patience. Relax. Enjoy your plants. Beginners (including myself many years ago) kill about 9 out of 10. I may be an expert but I still kill a few plants too!
I hate when a plant dies and I don’t know why, I keep looking till I figure out what went wrong. Recently I lost a couple blueberry plants, it took me about a year to figure it out. Too low pH! Of all things! I ran out of test strips. when i got some in, it told the story.
Probably but it doesn’t look like typical rust. I think it is though. Copper works. Once dormant spray trees, and spray again before leaf break next year. Lime-sulfur while dormant would be good too.
I tried both of these on my figs and they had no reaction, so it’s safe to use on them. I had no rust this year either. Both work well as preventatives, it won’t get rid of it now. Try and dispose of infected leaves once they fall off, get the spores out of there.
I don’t remember the last time a plant brought home drop all leaves in 3 days from 1 watering. (FWIW, it didn’t die and bounced back later once I figure out what happened)
