The dreaded F word (Fireblight) is showing up in our orchards

Good luck.

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Thanks @Auburn and @clarkinks ! I took off lots of stuff that looked troubled and also tried to prune it more open so it would get sun and air. I then sprayed it with copper and Mancozeb (because that’s what was in my sprayer).

I have no idea if the fruit is ā€œqualityā€ but there were lots of fist sized apples on it last year. Also, it was quite a pretty tree last year. Hopefully, I’ll be able to spend time and taste some of the fruit this year and see whether I like it!

You can be sure I will update later with the status of all these trees you’ve been helping with!

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If you haven’t already done it, I would seal the top ends of the scions to prevent drying out. Can use Doc Farwell’s, wood glue, elmer’s glue, caulking, parafilm, Gashell’s grafting putty, etc

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I did after the photo. Thank you for the assist anyhow.

FB is hitting me big time this year. The callery pears around are starting to melt. Lots of strikes on my pears and apples. So far no major wood has been infected, but I think that’s where this is heading. We had lots of early warm extended wet periods. I’m spraying strep but I’m starting to wonder if it has lost potency. The bag is several years old.

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I was actually ready to drag my strep out. Too many buds got hit with blight last year. The trees managed ok but I did lose a scaffold or two Worst was pink lady and red delicious. Two years ago was wolf river which is supposedly resistant. I try to get in there quick and start taking out wood aggressively. It has served me well except for my dwarf pears. They just can’t afford to lose any wood. No more dwarf Asian pears for me.

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Looks like fireblight just hit my Bartlett pear I bought from home Depot this year.

I’ve cut off the strikes I see, but I do not want to be dealing with fireblight prone variety. Is it possible for me to top the tree and graft more resistant varieties?

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Bartlett is a notorious blight magnet, at least here in coastal plain Maryland. Try Potomac, Harrow Sweet, Maxine (Starking Delicious), Magness, Korean Giant. If you know how to graft I would graft it 100% over to the ones I list right away. IMO if you try to save it, you’ll just have lots more trouble with it down the road. Big box stores don’t care that they’re selling nightmare varieties.

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I would graft it over to a more fb resistant variety or just replace the tree with a callery and graft it.

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Thanks! Yea I’m in Maryland so probably should have done some research before buying it. Learning to graft this year, with varied success.

I tried to graft varieties at the ends of branches. But likely I have to cut more of the branches back to the trunk and graft from there so there are no more Bartlett flowers and shoots.

Below is my tree now, wondering how much I can cut off the tree to graft so I do not deal with fireblight in the future.

I actually have a magness scion in the fridge, so would be great to put it to use!

From your picture, I can’t tell what part of the tree is Bartlett.

Is everything except the visible parafilmed scions Bartlett?

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If it were mine, I’d cut the trunk down to say 30 inches, cut off all branches, and do 2 bark grafts on the Bartlett stump. That will rebuild you a completely new Magness tree. There’s no way to prune a Bartlett to prevent it remaining a blight nightmare in the future. Get rid of every last Bartlett leaf. Burn, bag or bury the blighted Bartlett remnants.

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My Gold Rush had several hits of FB last year… it got warm and rained a lot when it had late blooms on… and that is where the FB showed up.

This year… it was cooler and dryer during it’s late bloom and no sign of FB so far this year.

Hope that remains…

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Thanks so much for the advice, I will do that once I get some grafting wax, or should I wait until the tree is dormant before cutting it down that short?

Yep all Bartlett except where there’s parafilm

I would do it now. You can get toilet bowl wax at a hardware store. I’d graft soon.

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I should warn I’m a grafting newbie.

Agree with @hambone if you don’t want Bartlett anymore. Too bad your already grafted work will be lost. You might be able to reuse those in a regraft (just recut to fresh wood on the scion), but it might be better to use new scions. I also read you don’t need such long pencil length scions. Smaller length is fine and may be better.

It looks like you could cut the tree at the locations where lowest red branch benders are. After the cut, your tree would look like a ā€œYā€. You could do 2 grafts into the main stem and one graft into the one side branch.

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If you graft only the trunk then your scaffold branches that develop will all be same age, size, dominance. If you graft trunk plus one or two branches, those branches may out-compete future scaffolds, with an unbalanced tree resulting.

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I would think the higher trunk scions would grow faster due to apical dominance.
Another factor is south facing branches also get boost from sun.

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Not the end of the world for those scions, just a little lost money, but scions are relatively cheap so I can try again next year after the magness grows.

Also helps that I can shape the tree to a more 2d shape on the guide wires that I wanted anyways.

Plan to do the graft next week once it’s stops raining in Maryland

Thank you both for all the help and suggestions!

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