I want to place this as a thought for folks minds that ‘midst 70’s and above 55 at night’ is the time to graft your socks off! This is when the beginning of grafting should start at wherever/ you live .
Best regards,
Dax
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So in Seattle… maybe August? 
I’m joking, of course, since instead most people here just graft in less than ideal temperatures, and by August it’s so dry here that even well-wrapped scion risks desiccation as it starts to push.
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uh huh! you’re on my “list” now @swincher 
(that is mid-August chip budding time) for lots of us… fyi
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Fully agree! I’ve been doing lots of grafting all week and will do more after the rain ends early next week. The pawpaws have been getting to the ideal stage (leaves 1-3 in) for grafting here, with ideal weather to boot. Persimmons aren’t quite vigorous enough yet but should be soon. The mulberries and jujubes are just starting to wake up.
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A few days late to the party but grafting pawpaws here this weekend
I was trying to avoid the current heat wave we’re in
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Looks like a bit more water than ideal to me, but that should give me about two weeks a year, mostly in the fall. Still, I’m hoping to finish my grafting this week.
Grafted a few on the tree yesterday, but I’ll wait for a couple of warmer days before I finish. Supposed to snow tonight, maybe. But it’s on my apple, so not too fussy.
Supposed to be in the 90’s all next week. Is it too late to graft any more pecans?
Somebody? Anybody? I don’t know.
If you say so, sir. But my March grafts look great for the most part!
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You graft whenever it is bark is slipping., if extreme heat and no more future calendar time where bark will still be slipping, don’t parafilm or wax scionwood or your graft-union. Use white flagging tape and cover all the places air or water may enter. That’s it…
btw, weather is unimportant… once this window opens there is none stopping… I’m saying rain may happen for 14-days in a row but that’s natural Spring weather and trees are used to it - and you should be grafting; also - you can always ‘come back’ continuing grafting until you get it to take. that’s how to do it. you have sometimes as late as mid-July sometimes; sometimes it rains all the time and therefore the bark continues to slip
don’t forget to know whether the trees are bleeding (sap). If they are, drill a hole thru the rootstock 2-4" off the ground and then again another 2-4 " above it .
go the other direction for drill hole number 2.
Or, chop your knife into the rootstock and let the knife do the same work as a drill. Here’s me preparing mulberry for upcoming days to check whether I may or may not be able to graft. To be determined until the tree shows its’ stopped bleeding.
(10-15 secs. after I chomped into it on each four-sides)
Dax
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I want to place this as a thought for folks minds that ‘midst 70’s and above 55 at night’ is the time to graft your socks off! This is when the beginning of grafting should start at wherever/ you live .
Best regards,
Dax[quote=“Barkslip, post:1, topic:45528, full:true”]
I want to place this as a thought for folks minds that ‘midst 70’s and above 55 at night’ is the time to graft your socks off! This is when the beginning of grafting should start at wherever/ you live .
Best regards,
Dax
[/quote]
Seems like We had about 3 days of those conditions scattered across early March. Then 30s and low 20s for a few days , followed by high 80s and 60s at night. Back to 50s and 30s, to be replaced instantly by mid 90s with high 60s at night. Rite now , mid to high 80s with high 50s at night. It is certainly a crap shoot here ,guessing when conditions will be right.
If you don’t like Georgia \ Florida line weather , just wait a few hours, it is sure to change. Except for mid June till mid September, rest assured it will be hot and humid then without fail.
Good luck to all
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when you see weather like this… that’s the point. It tells you it’s going to heat up afterwards and the bark will still continuing to slip for a long time after. You use discretion about wax/parafilm when too hot and you water when too hot. I’ve outlined that up above. Your choice of wrapping material color changes to white, also, which I’ve outlined too above.
this is the beginning of Spring weather most-years whether it lasts for a week or two and then it becomes just as nasty-hot here as is do at Florida/Georgia. And, you continue to graft until bark on trees no-longer slips.
instead of thinking it’s all a crap shoot, pay more attention to detail is all I’m saying (water, use lighter color “tape” and don’t parafilm or wax when weather is up there at 90-ish.)
Again, I’ll repeat.
And again, don’t stop! keep grafting over and over on the same roots until you get it; you have a lot of time.
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I was in no way making light of good info , I was only jesting about the unpredictability of our South Georgia weather. Last year was the only year I remember in recent history that we actually had a spring . We usually go from our mild winter to full fledged heat stroke weather in about three minutes somewhere in March…
I have done many times more grafts this year than ever before,with Persimmon , overall looking promising, too early to be sure of final survival rate. My pawpaw seem to respond much slower, and /or, with less success; I am not sure yet which is the case. I hope they are just slower to show growth.
With our temps getting into the 90s a few days ago, I have all the new grafts in afternoon shade. Luckily we dropped back into the lower 80s with cool nights last week, Probably wont last long.
good growing and good fishing to all , IF, anyone gets a chance to go fishing anymore. I may have forgotten how.
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Would have A very narrow window if I waited for that (would be midsummer) try for peaches and apricots (and will aim for this when I field graft nuts). But in my area everything else seems to benefit from spring flush at much lower temps mid 50s high, 40s lows with sun is mostly the best I can get in the spring and works great for pomes and all stone fruit except peaches/cots…did a mulberry this year too so will see if first round takes or I need to try another round
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I am just starting to learn grafting. That hopefully excuses this question ; Why not parafilm when it is hot? At first thought to the uninformed it would seem to be needed most in hot temps to protect from drying .
Have a good fish, but right on my brother…
the reason for parafilm is to of course stop dessication, however, it produces heat the same if you wrapped something in plastic therefore having left it in the sun. Say for example, an apple. Even a potato. Maybe you’ll have a baked-potato. I don’t know that answer.
Dax
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@Carlin my “wonder” whether many people pay close attention and me having written detail often means I already did a 26 minute video and I don’t care to drag things out and continue talking. I did mention that “you have all the power from these roots” when applied to the tree standing between myself and my camera/phone… I could have stated again "that healing power" is derived from larger trees that (naturally) have larger root systems too, however I didn’t. But, I’ve written it a million times … and eventually you’ll come across it and respectfully, many times at that… so let me bare the burdon of allowing you to know that in advance…
I’ve written it many times over that planting a rootstock should be ‘waited upon’ until it reaches deer browse height and then, grafted… You do that for the deer to develop a taste for the wood of the cultivars branches as well as, the fruit that wood is producing and they will (hopefully) like the flavor of that wood (way up there) more-so and will stop and think about chewing on your rootstock that is going to be everywhere, especially my place which I have, acreage…
Even in the city where my Mom & Dad live 30-miles away, across from a bank and a grocery store and taco bell’s and Wendy’ies etc. ect. theirs deer walking around…
So, sometimes “live and learn” can be complicated- naturally speaking of course… to interject, at every circumstance… you’ll find me around. I talk about grafting.
Thank you for your observation of sorts or questions that arose in my mind (Carlin)
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From South Georgia also. The past few years our driest months have been May and October. About to get hot and dryer.
Anyone re grafted during the same year?
Wow, those are typical summer temperatures here and I’ve been taught to graft in april/may before trees leaf out and temperatures are mostly above freezing day and night.