I’ve ripped out most of them now. All in the compost pile. I have some peppers i need to do something with. My tomato game was weak this year, i hope to do better next. One good variety was pineapple.
1 Like
my tomatoes and peppers did great this year from the extra heat. pole beans still pumping them out.
2 Likes
Building a small frame and putting hoops/clear plastic (maybe 2 layers) over my goldfish pond for winter. Not messing with trying to catch them/overwinter them inside. Sun should warm it up nicely even on cold winter days.
2 Likes
what is this post about? seems about a goldfish pond? I have a koi pond. I put a ring heater in it and an aquarium bubbler to keep a hole in the ice
1 Like
i thought about adding a bubbler too. I’ll see how it goes and maybe add one if things start going south.
1 Like
ive heard that with constant water movement, you dont really need a heater. I suppose the amount of airflow in a bubbler would determine that though, and the depth of your pond. Id like to build a koi pond but it gets so cold here, would need it at least 6ft deep probably, if not using heat and only a bubbler.
1 Like
That is correct. The bubbler alone will keep a hole in the ice and provide the needed oxygen for the fish. Having both is an insurance policy if one fails. I put the bubbler underneath the heater to increase effectiveness. I lost all my koi one winter when the skimmer cracked and drained the pond to the level it froze solid. Really hurt to fill up the trashcan with koi.
3 Likes
Mine is maybe 2 to 3 feet. I’m going to risk it. If not i buy new fish in the spring.
1 Like
It would be interesting to build a geothermally heated pond that uses underground pipe to transfer heat from the ground into the water, might not even need a pump if you set it up correctly so warm water keeps the flow moving.
2 Likes
I’m looking for suggestions on growing fruit in Zone 3B/4A. I’m currently living in zone 7B but I bought some land in MN zone 3B. I have 5 acres along a lake so an irrigated orchard and garden are in my future. I’m going to miss growing peaches and the warm zone plums but now I can grow rhubarb and focus on apples. I know the Honeycrisp and Zestar are now popular for growing up there. As far as plums BlackIce and Toka are popular. Anyway I’d like your input on what you like and why. I’m almost in Zone 4 so I’d be willing to push the zone a bit. I plan over the next year or two to graft the trees you suggest. I also want to grow pears, apricots and other fruit and I realize my choices will be limited. I will also want to talk root stalks. Bring on the suggestions.
1 Like
There are a couple of us from MN on here. Sounds like your acreage is in the upper half of the state. Do you mind me asking where you are more specifically?
2 Likes
Narrowing down a general area of 3b/4a MN would indeed be helpful. I’m now called 4a, but not that many years ago this area was 3b. We’ve had a number of winters with 3b low temps in the last decade or so, just an FYI. Personally, I wouldn’t put much time, money and/or effort into zone stretching but that’s just me.
As far as Honeycrisp goes, a number of growers north and east of Staples, MN have reported tip dieback and some winter mortality in bad winters. It is not a “bullet proof” variety in all of 4a/3b.
Side note…will you live year round in MN? Have you lived in the north previously?
3 Likes
I would love to be very specific and even share pictures, the place is beautiful, but since I’m not there full time I don’t think that would be wise. I’m near Park Rapids so it is considered Northern MN. I’m hoping for a micro climate of 4A. Time will tell.
I’ve lived in Nashville just short of 40 years but before that I lived in SD and grew up in ND so I know what I’m getting in to. I will probably spend most of my winters in Nashville. It wasn’t the cold I hated so much as the duration of winter.
I may get my butt burned zone pushing. That’s why I have you all to give me good advice and reality checks.
Side note: it looks like we will have our first snow next week. I don’t care to see that.
3 Likes
I sure wasn’t wanting your address 
Park Rapids general area is definitely specific enough. The “halfway point” of MN is somewhere around Brainerd/Cushing, so you’d definitely be considered to be in the northern half of MN. I personally think you’ll be disappointed in wanting a 4a microclimate there, but of course I could be wrong. PR is about 75 minutes almost due north of my location. I don’t expect consistent 4a winters here.
Yes, winters here are borderline interminable
I’m growing somewhere around 70 or 80 varieties of apples and maybe a dozen pear varieties. I’ve seen apples growing almost all the way to International Falls, so it certainly can be done. Pears are definitely more limited, but can also be done. Ure, Early Gold, and Golden Spice pears have been pretty much bullet proof here, surviving -38 (temp at my house, it was likely colder in the orchard as it’s lower in elevation) as well as weeks and weeks (and weeks) of -20 to -32 over the last decade or so. Walden Large pear (a Todd Parlo/Walden Heights Nursery introduction) also appears to be winter proof here. Southworth seems to hang on, but it grows slowly. Okolo seems to grow like a weed and is winter hardy so far. I’m not sure it’s all that tasty however. I hope to be able to endorse some other pears in the years to come, but cannot do so yet. OHxF 97 is hardy here…as long as there is snow cover before it hits -20 or lower. Ussurian is a better long term choice, however then you have the pear decline issue to address. Common domestic pear seedlings from northern seed sources are probably hardier than OHxF 97 and less so than Ussurian.
Apple rootstocks - B118, Antonovka, Dolgo, Ranetka, and local wild crab/apple seedlings all survive winters here (so far). M111, 106, and 7 will survive if well established before it hits -20. Young trees may be damaged or die.
Good luck, I’d be happy to answer any specific apple variety questions I’m able to.
3 Likes
If you want to grow fruit, cut down every tree on your property first… lol
currants, grapes, haskap, apples, apricots, pears, raspberries will all grow there
3 Likes
I’m near St. Paul. My most successful apples so far are Red Rome Beauty, Honeygold, and Zestar. Honeyberries and the Romance Series of bush cherries have also been very productive. Rhubarb hasn’t done well here, though it thrived in Central Wisconsin at our former home. Other fruits have had their ups and downs.
1 Like
And I would mix the apricots.
1 Like
You’ve got to be a solid zone colder than me here in La Crosse, but my thoughts based on what has worked here and not–
Peaches–no …
apricots-yes but beware they like to die for no reason up here.
plums-i would think the hybrid types would do fine///i’ve had really good luck with pluots.
pears–no idea…i have bartlett and seckel and both seem to do fine
When i was a kid we would go up to a big A frame cabin somewhere around Grand Rapids, MN area and fish–lots of sunfish/crappies.
2 Likes
My phone changed it. Was supposed to say NIX the apricots. I keep trying, but after five trees nary a fruit yet. I just plant them as a “just in case” they get some fruit some ideal season—some day.
3 Likes
Smith,
With 70 to 80 apple varieties you must have some winners and losers. What would you recommend for a juicy crisp apple like Honeycrisp. Then for a good baking apple, and lastly one that keeps well.
For pear rootstock I use callery pear (seedlings from Bradford pears). Do Bradford pears do OK up there?
For plum and apricot rootstock I use Purple-leaf plum. I works well for me here. I have given zone 4 plums grafted to it to people who live in Zone 4 and the plum sometimes fail yet the rootstock does fine. I think the rootstock may not be putting the tree to sleep properly. I may have to switch to a different rootstock.
Derek,
I have a lot of linden that will come down. I’m leaving the maples for syrup.
3 Likes