Hello, fruit tree-growing masters! So, some sad news: a freak hail storm – the worst to hit Tyler, TX in 18 years - shredded 2 of my leafing fruit trees. Now I’m looking for advice on how to give them some urgent care. Here’s the backstory:
In late Fall, I purchased 2 very nice, little fruit trees: a “Joey” avocado tree and a Key lime tree. I live in east Texas, so I am in zone 8a. Both trees were in great shape when I bought them, and the Key lime even had about 9 viable fruits on it.
I kept both of them indoors through the winter thus far, protecting them from that brutal cold spell we had earlier. Both of them started to bud and flower in January, and their leaves have been healthy and resplendent. Recently, the weather had warmed, so I decided to put them out on the terrace. And then this horrible hail storm hit last Sunday out of nowhere. We had 2"-sized hail carpet-bombing our property. Our 8-month-old roof is likely going to need to be replaced (but that is another story for the roof-fixers forum).
Both trees were outside during the storm and got shredded. The Key lime came through it much better – probably because the leaves are smaller and firmer. But the Joey took a really bad hit – probably 75% of the leaves have some sort of damage.
For starters, I’ve brought them back inside.
I removed the extremely broken leaves, but have been afraid to remove all damaged leaves since the tree isn’t dormant and needs to photosynthesize. However, now I am noticing that the other damaged leaves are beginning to break down. Here is an example:
It should not be a problem. As long as part of a leaf seems functional, leave it be. Nothing else to do but wait for it to recover. I would fertilize after about three weeks. Give it time to heal up before feeding.
Some growers remove all leaves to induce dormancy. This does not hurt the tree. The damage will slow growth rate but healthy trees should completely recover with no issues.
Hail is so disheartening. Pretty trees are suddenly ugly. But the damage is basically just cosmetic unless there is major bark damage. I’ve seen it so bad that the bark was stripped off.
Don’t remove the damaged leaves. Any green that remains is a plus.
The trees should be fine unless the bark was removed.
Last summer we had 3 inch hail that broke off entire scaffolds of the 3 new peach trees I planted and left really bad wounds. I’m just hoping I can grow new branches because 2 have scaffolds only on 1 side of the tree so it’s lopsided
I can relate. I have an AU Rosa plum tree planted outside. It is still small (maybe 3 feet) and a few of its branches snapped. I’m keeping an eye on those wounds.
Thanks, Drew! This is very helpful. Any opinion on seeing it indoors for a couple/few weeks? My plan was to keep them outside unless the temperature were to drop too low again, but will keeping them indoors aid in healing? Or would they fare better outside (assuming the temperature remains temperate?)
Hugh,
Sorry to hear this! How old is this lopsided tree? It appears to be only about 5 years old. If it’s not much older, You might consider regrowing it from a lower point on each scaffold of the first fork by removing the growth above the fork on each scaffold, and bark grafting using green scions this coming August. If you graft about that time. Your green scions will have mature growth buds at each leaf axil. These two forks could easily accommodate three grafts per fork giving you ultimately the perfect vase shape for this tree.
That’s what I would do!
Dennis
Kent, Wa
I didn’t include a pic of the lopsided tree. The trunk is about 1 inch across. It came in a pot and they said it was 1 year after the graft, so now 2 years after the graft.
The first pic is an approx 10 year old cherry and the 2nd is a 6 year old peach.
If you move the trees have to acclimate to the new conditions. I consider that somewhat stressful. Otherwise I’m not sure if the trees would benefit from a move?
Good to know, thank you. We are going to have a cold weekend here in East Texas, with lows in the high 20s. I think the Joey is pretty cold hardy, but might keep it and the Key Lime in just until next week. Thanks again for all of the insight!
We had a hail storm here with just under golfball size hail, that tore a lot of bark on limbs of smaller trees (even some small branches). Is it worthwhile to perhaps wrap the wounds that are kind of a slit in the bark (right side of picture attached), in parafilm to help it heal better? I’ve done a few at least, but not sure I want to spend my precious parafilm on a whole bunch…
I would leave it. You want wounds to dry. The wounds will stimulate hormones to help repair. Wounds expose the tree to fungal infection so you want them to dry ASAP. Some exception like oaks. You want to use wound sealants. I guess oak wilt can easily infect wounds quickly you need to use sealant as a barrier. It’s the only time it is wise to use sealants. Current practice, always subject to change. Other exceptions may exist but I don’t know of any? Possibly large wounds like major lost limbs. Otherwise leave it alone.
When I prune my trees two to three times a year I create more wounds than I see in your tree. I have never used sealant the last ten years I have had fruit trees.
