Using Wilt Stop on new grafts?

Last week Drew suggested using Wilt Stop because I am concerned about last year’s cleft grafts breaking dormancy too early and suffering winter kill.

Now it occurs to me that it might be used on new grafts as a matter of routine if one expects particularly drying conditions.


Useful? Worthwhile? Pointless, redundant, and a waste?

Opinions wanted! Inquiring minds want to know …

Thanks all.

Our local grower that I work closely with uses Anti Stress in this way. He dips cuttings in full strength Anti Stress (its diluted a ton when its sprayed) and grafts them without any parafilm covering. Hes a big believer in the stuff. Undiluted is alot like watered down elmers glue. Ive not done this yet but may experiment with it this season. Its just a solution looking for a problem for me, parafilm works so well I have little reason to change.

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This has been discussed before. One concern was the stuff might leak into the graft itself and may prevent the graft from taking. Sealing canbium of scion or rootstock. If used I would do it the regular way and spray the parafilm. No chance of any leaking into the graft itself. Fig growers have been using parafilm to keep cuttings moist until they root. Many have reported the parafilm breaking down quickly. Spraying it should make it last longer.
Eric mentioned as a dip before graft, this would seem OK with wilt stop too. As you would let it dry, and cut wood for graft, so no chance of interference.
Anti Stress sounds like a similar product, although I’m not sure what the active ingredient(s) is/are? Wilt Stop is Pinene. Studies of these products that use latex polymers proved ineffective. I have not seen any studies on pinene? Think of pine tar, it is a natural product thus organic.

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I don’t know how well wilt stop works or not, but I started using some last year and that stuff is nasty smelling, sticky crap, had a bunch of family complaints because of what I sprayed near the house. I went back to using wilt pruf or moisturin, as they don’t clog the sprayer as bad either and they dry on the plant as a nice plastic-like film. They all seem to use similar stuff, but the wilt stop I used was unlike the other two, and a disaster-maybe could use it as a sticky trap for insects :joy:

Wilt pruf and wilt stop are exactly the same thing. Pinene.Both are 25% pinene.
I have never had it clog the sprayer. I do use soap and water to clean.

yeah, that is what I would have thought, so tried the cheaper wilt stop and whatever it was, was nothing like the similar wilt pruf and moisturin I have used.

Well 75% is inert, maybe something they add. Also Nu-film 17 uses pinene as a sticker. It is the best sticker or one of the best, guess you found that out!:heart_eyes: You could use the rest as a sticker for spaying, I tried it and used 2 tbsp per gallon. Seem to work well!
So maybe wilt pruf is a better option? I’ll try it next year. It should work as well, same stuff, same ratio 5-1 dilution.

A test this year for me is too see if my blackberry canes make it. Some are not that hardy, maybe last year was a fluke? I know scott reported a lot of dieback, and i did not, so if no dieback again, I’m sticking with it. 2 years ago I lost 90% of my canes to the cold and drying. Last year I lost 10% with wilt stop.

Just wanted to add. I know someone who uses acrylic craft spray to cover his scions. It worked perfect for him for along time as he has done a lot of grafting for many years. I have used it also as well as parafilm to prevent dehydration. It worked great for me too.

Yes he lets it fully dry before grafting it.

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Just got home and checked my email for a response to a query I directed to Bonide this morning. Here is what I found:

Mr. Hull,

Thank you for your email. Sorry but Wilt Stop is not recommended to be sprayed on new graphs. Please consider using Pruning Sealer or even a plastic bag to prevent moisture loss. The graft requires high humidity but not soaking. You should not allow water to fall onto or into the graft because this can result in moisture seeping between the rootstock and the scion (cut), which interrupts the fusing of the cambium. On the other hand, dry air will cause the graft to dry out also, which kills the scion. Normally you can keep the humidity around the tree consistent by wrapping plastic around the grafted part, as mentioned, but must be changed often to keep area clean. The plastic wrap keeps water and wind off the direct site, which can dry the graft causing the union to fail. Like any new planting make sure the soil is moist around the base of the tree, especially during and after it starts to produce buds.

Should you have any further questions or comments, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Warm Regards,

Rachelle Janiga
Consumer Service Specialist
315-736-8231 ext. 276

So I guess I won’t bother, although I like to think it’s not a bad idea.

Thanks for all the discussion, which was in itself educational and useful!