Does anyone have any direct experience with apples on Vineland V1 rootstock or Bud 10 they would care to share pro’s and con’s of?
Can’t find much info on V1 regarding disease and pest resistance as well as more info on Bud 10 outside of what is already on Varieties Intl’
If you’ve spent a few
hours online you probably got all I can offer.
I have a few B-10, but unless they prove to be self-supporting, I’m not sure if they offer advantages over B-9.
That’s the problem the online info is light just trying to see what the real world experience is and for V1 still can’t figure out why they don’t have a whole profile on it
I don’t think the Vineland series is readily available in the United States. Do you have a supplier that can actually provide you with Vineland 1 rootstock?
The Vineland series was in the Honeycrisp/Fuji NC-140 trial and it was pretty vigorous which probably limited interest in it for commercial orchards since they focus mainly on dwarf rootstocks. It’s about the same size as G30. I see you already looked at the video I posted for the NC-140 trees. Here is the paper for it which also includes data for Fuji. G30 did better in the trial than V1.
http://www.horticulturalnews.org/100-2/a7.pdf
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I have some benchgrafts on Bud 10 but it is too early to tell much. You may want to look at this thread.
Cameron Nursery in Washington sells Vineland 1 in limited quantities I called them a few weeks ago. They might be the only US rep for the rootstock but who knows given the poor marketing for Vineland. I watched the video and another NC-140 out of Canada that funny enough did not include Vineland roots. Bud 10 has me intrigued and thinking of doing some interterms with left over tops from bench grafting next season. I’m starting to realize its too early for feedback on it although it was in an NC-140 trial or two but they have ended yet.
I think if you want to do interstems you are probably best off doing B9/M111. Skillcult has a blog and youtube videos where he grafted them and did updates for a number of years. I think quite a few people on the forum have done them as well. If you bury the interstem 1/2 way you get a M7 size tree. If you leave it unburied you get a M26 size tree that tends to sucker.
I don’t think using B10 has real advantages over B9 if your using it for an interstem. And the B9/M111 combination has been tested by others where B10/M111 has not. It might be that using G890, G969, or G30 would work just as well without having to graft an interstem.
I am guessing Cameron Nursery is wholesale only and you will have to buy a full bundle at least. You going to have trouble getting much information on Vineland 1. Maybe you could contact the guy that is running the NC-140 plot with Vineland and ask for his opinion.
There are other combinations of interstems and matching vigor besides M111 (Antonovka, B118, P18) that do well and yes burying the graft union is ideal to help suppress suckering. My efforts are more about not throwing away the ~10 long rootstock stick after bench grafting and actually doing something with them after ordering 200 stocks from Coppenhaven etc. Bud 10 I’ll do the same and see how they do on B118, P18, and Antonovka since its used heavily in Europe under B9.
I’ll test out G969 since I have it on order for next season. There was an NC-140 down the street using G Series with Honeycrisp so trying to have the now retired lead researcher show me the trial rows since the University has neglected the planting since he retired. Definitely going to reach out to V1 guy in Mass.
Cameron, Willamette, Treco, Coppenhaven all have minimums I don’t waste my time with anything that isn’t bundled doesn’t make financial sense to buy from OGW, Raintree, etc etc.
I currently use a lot of G969 and a bit of M111. Instead of being married to one rootstock or combo of Interstems I wanted a diverse planting of rootstocks in the event things fail everything is not on the same thing.
I am doubting B-10 can take being too moist all the time.
But I have another handfull on order.
I didn’t see this before now. I have two trees on Vineland 1, started as Honeycrisp grafted on V1, must have been budded 2018, grafting workshop 2019. One the top died so still Honeycrisp, the other has V1-Honeycrisp-Liberty. Grafted pretty well, still quite small after this long, something flowered last year though, I think it was the Liberty. I use this just to park scion, the rootstock is not vigorous enough for the grafts to do much. Fine as a patio tree in a pot. Not -at all- resistant to wooly aphid. So at least now I know what it is?
I would never choose this again, I was told it was all that was available early enough for the workshop, which was February. I could not get info about where this originally came from, as initially I liked it. Either horrible experience getting it or teacher unhelpful.
Also-we are located in Maryland, so this is probably too northern a variety for us.
Vineland, Ontario, Canada research station put out V-1 rootstocks.
I have more of the B-10 I’ll be trying this spring.
Hi there. My farm is located in Northern Michigan. I have about 25 acres of honeys on V.1. We get great size, low bitter pit most years. Tree is slow to reach its height. Once it is filled out they slow down nice.