What I've learned in 20 years of greenhouse fruit growing

I was asked to summarize what I’ve learned about growing the best possible fruit in a greenhouse. I’ve been at it 20 years in Alpine Texas at 4500 ft elevation. It’s sunny here year around, ~75% sunshine all year long. 60/30F in winter, 90/65 in summer. Humidity is generally low especially in winter but can be higher than desired.

Growing fruit in a greenhouse is pretty challenging even here in a good environment for greenhouse growing. What’s a good environment: warm, sunny, and dry. The same as outdoors. Right now we’re having dew points between 55 and 65. That works and I can keep the greenhouse cool enough using a wet wall and large exhaust fans. But when it turns cloudy and rainy, fruit quality of the most sensitive fruits like figs suffers. For one thing the figs are rooted outside the GH so runoff from the roof affects them. I have up rain gutters and that helps.

Stone fruit is more forgiving of clouds and rain but have their own issues around water. Light, and probably heat, is only 53% inside vs outside. Thus, water use inside is about half of outside. Too much water ruins stone fruit quality. But too much water stress during summer, knocks out flowers for the next season on sweet cherries and apricot. Less so on pluots. Not an issue on peach/nectarine.

There is also an issue around pollination if the GH is too warm by day during bloom. 80s and 90s during bloom are too warm. 70s are OK, I think. So that time of year 40s at night and 70s during the day. Misting the trees during bloom might also help. High heat that time of year means low humidity during the day. Both may be an issue for pollination.

Greenhouse design is important. Most greenhouses lack sufficient heating and cooling systems. You want high light but that comes with high heat load. My GH roof is covered in two layers of Palring 175. That gives light inside just above 50% of outside. DLI, daily light integral recently, of 23 inside vs 44 outside. DLI of 23 in summer is adequate. I expect about 10 inside in winter, maybe even less and that’s in a sunny climate at 30N latitude.

The best places in the US to grow fruit in a GH would be at about 3500 to 4500 feet elevation in west Texas, NM, AZ, and nearby areas. I’m at 4500 ft in SW Texas. Dew points below 60 in summer and below 30 in winter are good. The lower the better.

Achieving chilling in the GH is easy in my climate. I can get 700 Utah hours in 45 days anytime from mid Nov thru Febr. Dec and Jan the best. This is done with a combination of shading and running the wet wall and heater as needed. Maintain 37-42 at night and hold days as cool as possible. Mostly my system maintains 37-60F with average outside at 60/30.

The best adapted fruits and also best tasting are stone fruits. I think that would be the case in colder climates like CO and in more extreme climates like zone 3-6. With long cold winters the GH could be run with a 6-7 month growing season rather than 10.5 months here. In those cold climates chilling won’t be an issue. Winter temperatures could be maintained just above damaging levels from leaf drop until bloom. That would drastically cut heating cost. Heating to zero won’t be expensive in winter even in zone 3-4.

In my setup other well adapted and great tasting fruits are citrus, grapes, figs, blueberries, persimmon, and berries.

Pest control revolves around spider mites. Right now, I’m using horticultural oil. 2x a month in summer, 1x spring and fall. But I recently had some concerns about how safe that is to eat the fruit. I’m going to look at other options like cold pressed neem oil.

The pluses of GH growing include few pest issues and no losses to critters, freezes, or hail. I also enjoy the fact that I can control temperatures and seasons to an extent impossible outside.

I always felt my fruit came up somewhat short when growing outside for 35 years before having a greenhouse. My best greenhouse fruit has been nothing short of spectacular…!!

I’ve learned a lot about fruit growing by having a greenhouse for the last 20 years. But don’t have it all figured out yet.

27 Likes

Sounds like perfect, high quality carnation conditions! We could never get enough light, here, when glass greenhouses went out of style.

3 Likes

Kansas has enough light, especially western KS. One could build a higher light GH than mine. I have double layer inflated Palring 175. A single layer of that or Solarig or double wall polycarbonate would be enough light. I’ve never felt that my GH was too low in light to grow high quality fruit.

4 Likes

The learning curve on operating a greenhouse is steep. I made many mistakes when I built my first hoop house in 2007. You can learn far more about greenhouses by asking someone who has one “what did you do wrong”?

5 Likes

As I said above the biggest mistake is inadequate heating and especially cooling. Then people start throwing on shade cloth. That still doesn’t work very well and light level plummets. Then it becomes a seasonal GH. After that it sets empty.

Cost to cool mine at 1725 sqft is less than $50 per month. High every day lately have been 90-91. So it cycles between about 85 and 91 during the day.

5 Likes

Monsanto 601 or 602 is what we had for the blow in double wall roof, very dingy. Side walls were Qualex? polycarbonate. The sales rep never told the owner to tape the open-ends shut, green algae was flourishing inside within 2 years. This was late 70’s.

3 Likes

Solarig or Palring are vastly better than standard 6 mil 4 yr GH poly. I had 6 mil twice. It lost inflation after 2 yrs and was replaced after about 3. I was up on top of the GH regularly patching holes.

After that double layer inflated Solarig which was totally trouble free for 10 years. Never once on top patching holes. Now Palring 175. It’s the best yet. About 25% more expensive that 6 mil. But if it lasts 3x as long, and it should, the savings over 10 years are huge. Just labor savings for two less installtions pays for the better material.

5 Likes

Hi Steven,

If I decided to put my 4 non astringent Kakis in ground inside my Costco Green house. If the temperature inside the green house dropped to -5F or below maybe 3 times during Winter. I can run an electric heater for those night is that doable in my Z5. I just afraid the polar Vortex dropped the temp down to -30F once in 10 to 15 yrs and I may not be able to keep that 8X8 feet green house above -5F? @fruitnut
Btw, it got an automatic lift gate vent on the roof. When the temperature above 75 degrees then the wax melts and the piston push upward to open the top door vent. I wish I came up with that mechanism. Haha.

Tony

3 Likes

One 1500 watt electric heater should hold roughly 15F warmer than outside. That’s just a guess going off experience heating similar sized areas.

Just be aware that being in that GH full time in winter could make the trees more tender than if they were outside. Having them outside in the shade most of the time would probably be the best plan. Put them inside only on below zero nights.

2 Likes

In a pinch, I used a 50,000 BTU turkey fryer to heat my greenhouse. If you do this, be very very careful. Many plants are sensitive to gas and may die from exposure. Tomatoes are an example. You want a blue flame only large enough to maintain temperature.

3 Likes

I’ve tried to be honest here about the challenges of growing fruit in a greenhouse. There are many but all things considered a greenhouse in the right location and managed correctly can be a world class fruit growing environment. Where else can one grow high chill stone fruits and things like banana and now mango? Not many places other than a few select locations in CA and similar environments. I really don’t think there’s any place even in CA that can produce the variety and quality of fruits with less pest and weather issues.

If I were younger and wanted to go even further, I’d have a high chill greenhouse right next to a no chill setup. A two bay gutter connected setup with one side like I have now for things needing chilling. And the other side warm all winter. In my climate the GH heats up to 90F for about 6 hours on any sunny day even in mid winter. Run the stone fruit side at 37 low all winter. That doesn’t require much heating. Run the no chill side at whatever you want at night. 42-52 would work fine. As long as it warms up by day the mango would sail right through winter just fine. Citrus and figs would do well in either setup. Plus, the warm side could grow many things I haven’t tackled.

7 Likes

Do you have any insights on meeting low chill hours (<200 hrs) for stone fruits grown in Koppen Climate Aw. In this case the green house is just a temporary cold box.

2 Likes

Aw is I believe tropical with a dry winter. That probably means that it seldom drops below 54F which is about the highest temperature that will chill stone fruits. Evaporative cooling can still help if dew points fall below 50, and below 40 would be better. Shading in winter would help.

My first year back in Texas I had about 30 potted stone fruit trees that were eventually planted in my new GH. Those I set up inside a garage. I installed a window evaporative cooler, crowded the plants in front of that, and covered the trees with blankets to direct the cool air over the plants.

Outside just misting the trees with water can cool off the flower and leaf buds. 200 chill hour plants don’t need much help. In Aw I’d defoliate them, shade if possible, and use evaporative cooling if dew points are low enough.

2 Likes

Thanks, we have some ancestral land in south India, its semi-arid and stays dry without rains until July where some grapes and citrus does relatively well. I was thinking about experimenting with low chill stone fruits for which there is considerable market in one of the largest city, currently served by subpar products products grown 1800 miles away in the NE part of the country.

3 Likes

A lot of free info Fruitnut . You can save a lot of money following this info and do it right.

3 Likes

Thanks for setting my dream in motion again. Still working on getting my greenhouse up and running, dealing with formidable site issues. Typical commercial houses here in the East are built by pounding pipes 2 feet into the ground. Even 1 foot in a pinch, with added bracing. I’m lucky to get down a foot before ledge, everywhere.

But that’s all just the construction, and I’m really happy to get your insights about growing. I’ve worked in commercial greenhouses and just loved it. All the advantages you mention, and especially in winter it’s the most pleasant place to be. Thanks!

2 Likes

Thought I saw mangos in that photo. What a treasure!

2 Likes

Yes, first and second year mango. They’re a lot harder to grow than citrus.

A greenhouse in Vermont in winter will be a nice retreat. It’s a nice retreat here summer or winter. In summer it blocks out the UV. In winter it’s bright and warm.

1 Like

I became addicted to mangoes when I spent time in India.A mango milkshake is fit for the gods. But with climate change many of the mango growing places - with huge old trees - are getting too hot and the trees are not pollinating or drop developing fruit. New orchards are being planted farther north. I bet Mexico is planting more as well. But it’s a race depending on how fast things change. Where I am in Vermont the temps did not go below zero last winter— a jump from zone 5 to zone 7 !
What makes growing them tough for you?

2 Likes

The chill cycle for stone fruit caused chilling injury on mango last winter. It never dropped below 37F but my chilling method is very effective. So it was 45 straight days with no letup mostly between 37 and 54. This coming winter I’m going to up the minimum from 37 to 42. 42 is still perfect chilling. And that won’t make much difference to the mango. But I’ll also spread out the chilling. Chill when conditions are most favorable and ease up in between. Give the mango and banana 2-3 warmer days each week to maintain functioning.

Citrus doesn’t mind the chill cycle in the least.

I’ll also erect a 10x20ft greenhouse inside the big greenhouse over most of the mango. I’ll do that during chill cycle and maybe more. That will be held ~15F warmer than chill cycle. Mango are grown in CA where winters are about as cold as my GH. But every day all winter isn’t bone chilling.

Getting chilling even in a GH in VT won’t be an issue unless you heat to above 50F.

@Ged What do you want to grow in your GH?

2 Likes