I have a few apple and pear espaliers from which rabbits have chewed off branches, leaving 1 - 3 inch horizontal stubs. I would like to graft onto these stubs.
Any suggestions for the type graft I should use?
I am concerned that the scions would need some type of support.
If the diameter is big enough I would do a bark graft. If that is not possible you could just perform a whip and tongue (or just a whip) wrap it tightly with Parafilm, like bench grafting. It will be a bit difficult as it must be close to the ground, but that’s all I could think of. When I do whip and tongue onto existing trees in my neck of the woods performing the graft at the green tip stage is important for success.
1 Like
My first choice would be a simple whip or splice graft, assuming the scions are not too small compared to the root stock: cut both pieces on the bias, marry the cambium layers as best you can, wrap with parafilm, wrap again with rubber bands, Temflex, plastic tape, your choice of whatever.
My second choice would be a cleft, especially if the scions are mismatched in size: split the root stock, cut the wedge(s) and place the scion(s), match the cambia as well as possible (at an angle to ensure contact), wrap as above.
My bark grafts never look very good, so I avoid them. But if they’re good for you go for it.
2 Likes
it’s sounds crazy but I’ve “always” done whip and tongue in that situation. I make darn sure my whip cut is precise. I whip it really-really quickly. Any corrections are easy and minor.
1 Like
i would also recomend Whip and tongue, than cleft or bark graft. But if the stump/postion for all those make it inposible. You can also do a chip bud… Assuming the stumps are not a really large caliper. (how old are the stumps? how thick are they? 1"? 2" ?)
You could also do a chip bud as backup for if the other graft doesen’t take. Assuming there is enough stump for both ofc.
Choosing what type of grafts depends on a few things:
-Size of scionwood vs size of a rootstock/branch you want to graft on
-Your grafting skill level esp. what type of graft you are good at
In your situation, you have only 1-3” of wood left and it goes horizontal.
You don’t want to make a mistake and waste that little wood you have. Also, a horizontal is not as comfortable as a a vertical position to graft on an existing tree.
Go with the type of graft you are good at and the one that makes most sense considering the sizes of scionwood and rootstock.
3 Likes
Stumps are about 3/8" diameter and 18" above ground.
I have only done cleft grafts, mostly on figs, with about a 75% success rate.
Cleft graft is fine. Apples and pears are very forgiving. Make sure cambium contact is good, wrap the graft union tightly and seal the grafting union area with either parafilm, Temflex, wax, etc.
You have Some good suggestions already, but as I understand your problem is really the rabbits that may not go away. So you may also want to go far enough up the main trunk out of rabbit reach, and perform several modified side veneer grafts to establish new branches where desired. There are several good utube videos if you google “side veneer grafts”. A modified one does not cut off the trunk above the graft, but retains it and simply uses a short 2-3 bud scion to make the graft. I do this graft whenever I do not want to remove a branch that is fruiting, but I want to add a new limb. If your tree trunk is too large for this type of graft you could try a simple side graft by slicing diagonally into the trunk so that you can drive a short stubby scion under the bark enough to get cambium contact. Both grafts I mentioned require fairly large scionwood that can be tapped into place and should be sealed with tanglefoot or similar sealer, and either nailed or wrapped tightly with a rubber to create enough pressure for the cambium contacts to heal. Until the growth is vigorous leave the graft binding in place, maybe by fall consider removing but provide some type of support thru the next growing season until the graft is storm enough to support the new limbs. Hope this gives you some ideas
Vlad, i think the question “what is the best graft” is less about any graft being somehow the one ring to rule them all than about
A) the graft you can do well in general
B) the graft you can do well given the size and position of the rootstock
C) the relationship of rootstock size and scion size.
As an example, a 3” diameter stump is gonna rule out whip and tongue. So is pencil-thick rootstock vs toothpick scion. And if your cuts are 3” off the ground that may also determine how you can work rootstock.
So there is no perfect answer.
There is also no single answer…did this tonight and do it fairly often, tonights cuts were awful but it was apples at least and they graft easy. Anyway, i had scion about 2/3 the thickness of rootstock: i didnt want to do an offset whip and tongue and trust it, and didnt want to put all faith in a single offset cleft but couldnt fit 2 sciins in the cleft, so i did a cleft and a bark at the same spot. I have done this several times, and often both types take and I have to figure out what to cut out later…
3 Likes