What's the verdict on Honeyberries...are they tasty?

Consideration of the lifespan of flowers and the effect on successful cross-pollination and thus also on fertility

Aging of flowers has a negative effect on the success of cross-pollination and thus on fertility. Extending the lifespan of flowers beyond the minimum lifespan has a negative effect on the quality of cross-pollination and therefore fertility. As the flowers age, the sensitivity of the flowers to pollen decreases. From this comes the general knowledge that it is better if the flower is pollinated as soon as possible after development by an effective pollinator. The spontaneous flowering of different varieties of Haskap will attract more pollinators, which has a great impact on successful cross-pollination and therefore fertility. The sensitivity of flowers to pollen is greatest within 3 days after the flower has opened and then decreases slightly, but the plant retains a large percentage of receptive flowers until they become old, i.e. around 7-10 days. It’s more complicated than I thought. Thus, plants can adapt to different levels of pollinator activity through a predisposition in differences in flower lifespan.

The plant has built-in compromises in this, because maintaining the flowers above the minimum lifespan costs it a lot of energy and the flowers age over time, which gradually loses the success of cross-pollination. On the other hand, the lifespan of a flower, above the minimum lifespan, has an effect on the more intensive transfer of pollen by pollinators. Then a longer flower life could have advantages due to the preservation of the possibility of pollen transfer, but on the other hand, negative consequences due to the high energy costs of the plant to maintain the flowers, which is associated with the aging of the flowers and thus also the reduction of the sensitivity of the flowers to pollen. That is, the production of fruits decreases significantly with the increase in the age of the flowers, at the moment of cross-pollination.
In recent years, I notice that the early and late varieties are quite close in flowering, which I think is the course of winter. On the other hand, there is better cross-pollination and the yield is high.

This year was different in that the buds on the earlier varieties were already quite swollen in January, even inside the bushes. I observe that the flowers on the top buds, which were the most developed, were damaged by -16°C frosts. The larger development of the buds inside the bushes was inhibited and subsequently took place slowly and without frost damage. At the same time, although the later varieties started sprouting later, they gradually caught up with the earlier varieties in the sprouting of buds and now they are sprouted both with one and the other, with only a small difference. Well, this is how both earlier and later plants wait for suitable conditions and the start of flowering. This is reflected only in a slight shift in the beginning of flowering, and early and late varieties basically meet in flowering.

The Aurora variety begins to bloom along with the early varieties.

On the contrary, during a harsher winter, when there is a sufficiently long period of vegetative rest and the buds are not grown at all, in the spring there is a rapid development of the buds, which, if they are not so much hampered by the frosts, continue to sprout. At the same time, later varieties wake up later, and basically this results in a larger time gap when flowering starts for earlier and later varieties, and therefore also a shift in the start of flowering of later varieties. This results in less overall cross-pollination success

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This morning - 5.7°C and snow

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@Viktor you seem to have a wealth of information on HB. I’ve spent the last while reading the previous messages in this thread and found you’re knowledge very useful, thanks! Are there any resources you found particularly helpful over the years working with HB? I’ve read The essential Honeyberry Guide by Logic Cassells which was useful. I think I seen you mention Hb don’t like containers, how did they react in them? I’ve a very small piece of land currently but have developed an obsession with HB so have around 35 young plants of about 12 different varieties planted into 30L containers until I upscale my garden. Hoping they will cope for a year or so. Do you do much pruning during the first few years of growth or wait until they are 4/5 and have filled out first? Keep up the great work, this is a great thread.

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Honeyberries in bloom here in New England!

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mine are still under 2ft. of snow. looks like lots of damage from the snow and maybe voles. its bad enough to have to endure our cold winters just to have snow destroy 3-4 yrs of growth on our bushes and trees. once the get past 4ft. they come through unscathed but its to get them there. looks like several of my 6yr. old romance cherries may be split down the middle. :frowning:

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The hot weather took our last foot of dense snow in just a couple days. My cherries, honeyberries, and blueberries appear okay after a quick peruse through them.

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All varieties are finished blooming here. Just a little fruit.

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You had 2 feet of snow covering the ground 3 days ago? :astonished: I feel like I’m in Florida now! (I’m not, lol)

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I am so happy with the growth on my honeyberries this year! I have several shrubs that are about 3-4 feet tall and doing well.

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Lovely garden.
One or 2 berries per bush here…but it did get into the teens as honeyberries bloomed here on 2 occasions.

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Recently, I started experimenting with growing in 90L containers that are used on construction sites. I will make the holes on the side about 12 cm from the bottom of the container. I am observing how sustainable it will be. Not everyone has the opportunity to plant plants on the property, so they are looking for ways to grow them in containers.
So far, I planted the Vostorg variety 3 years ago. Last year’s Aurora variety. My sturgeon grew very quickly and already 2 years after planting it overtook the plants that I planted directly in the soil at the same time. It also had larger fruits than plants planted in the soil, and many fruits reached 4 cm, and the fruits were quite a lot for a 3-year-old bush.

The question is, how long will the shelf life be when the plant is planted in a container in this way and after the substrate has been completely soaked.

I chose such a 90 L container, also for this reason, so that the sustainability is as long as possible. I do not recommend in smaller containers.
Inside the container, there is a nop foil, which exceeds the container by 15-20 cm. In the container, the sawdust is pressed to the height of the container, and the humidity is kept optimal by inflowing. The excess part is filled with high-quality soil with compost. A hole is drilled in the side of the container so that water can stand in the container at the bottom up to a level of about 12 cm. The sawdust will be soaked in water, and the substrate will be optimally moist by loosening, and the substrate will not dry out, which is difficult to prevent with plants grown in containers.

The nop film will ensure that the substrate in the container will not overheat so much.

Vostorg


Aurora


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Buzzing like a linden tree

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Basically, for larger plantings, it is best if I cut the plants to 10-15 cm from the ground before planting in autumn. Reserve buds are activated and an even base of the bush is formed. The plants then look the same size and the base of the bush is quickly formed. Don’t forget the support rods against breaking branches in strong winds. If the plants are bigger, the new shoots already have something to lean on and don’t break as much. If the plants are still very small before planting, it is good to wait a year before cutting. After that, I don’t cut the plants anymore, only if the twigs are dry. If the bush is already too old and it is very bald inside and thickens on the periphery and the fruits are small, then I cut it all in autumn from the ground to 10-15 cm. Don’t forget about the support rods and tie them down to prevent them from breaking in the wind.

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There’s not a problem starting using a smaller pot. If you move to bigger in a couple years.
I have 2 year old plants in 1.5 and 2 gallon pots doing just fine…but I’ll move to a 3 at some point. Then, decide on planting in ground or moving to larger pots eventually.

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Of course, small plants are gradually transplanted into larger containers. I usually put them in 3L containers before planting. The plants that I planted in 90L containers were previously in 3L containers and they are planted there on the table to bring a harvest. The container should be large and especially wide, as these plants are shallow spices. It should not overheat and the substrate should not dry out so that moisture can be easily preserved. Otherwise, it will be difficult to sustain.

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Will you please provide an update on this experiment. Thanks!

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I continue and expand this experiment with the shaping of bushes. Since the branches naturally lean to the side, I do not notice a lack of light when the fruits are ripening. The twigs have enough space so that they do not touch the ground and there are no losses due to this reason. Collection is very convenient. Here is the harvest from these bushes - year 2022:

Well, here is the flowering on 17.4.2023

I am trying to shape the variety - Aurora

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OK in Texas 8a the experiment continues. See my earlier posts about last summers brutal conditions here even worse than normal up to 110 one day. Anyway last fall planted two year old Boreal Beast, Aurora, Maxie and Willa. They flowered in January and I harvested Willa a few weeks ago. Note these berries were very small compared to normal size, not strongly attached (which is an issue here du to lots of wind). Since the were weakly attached I had to harvest a day or two after turning blue. Sour taste, not unpleasant as I don’t mind sour berries. The sour is not overwhelming. That would be good enough for me to grow them but I know you need to give them a week or two after turning blue to get sweet berries. Beast, Aurora are blue now. Maxies were blue as well but small and looks like they got aborted. Did get to try all of these shortly after turning blue, all pleasingly sour and all the same taste at that harvest time. Now one Aurora berry fell off and broke open and was squishy soft and leaking a bit. Didn’t look like it got attacked, just fell off. Tasted that one and it was very good with a taste resembling blackberry jam. Not exactly but close with a slight hint of the sourness in the background. That was excellent. Another berry fell off the bush which had been blue for about 5 days and still tasted sour similar to early havested other ones. Tasted a Beast 5 days after turning blue and had the sour taste. Wanted to try these just in case something happens to the berries before they get sweet ripe. In about 7 to 10 days will taste the remaining Beast and Aurora which will give them 1.5-2 weeks of ripening after turning blue. And that will be the end of my berry production. Only had a few on each so not a lot to work with. Late March appears to be the ripening time (meaning 2 weeks after turning blue) for Willa here in TX, while the others mentioned are late April despite their flowering period overlapping for Willa, Beast and Aurora, and Maxie is about a week later. But all overlapped enough for me to hand pollinate all of them. That is the good news.

Now for my worrisome news. A year and a half ago I planted Blue Pagoda and Boreal Beauty. As noted these did not defoliate in our incredible hot summer with a few days in the 105-110F range, and mostly about 100F for the rest of the summer. They survived and starting growing in February but did not flower so I am concerned about chilling hours being enough here. We get about 800 chilling hours. But with incredible heat last summer they leafed out but didn’t grow much beyond that. If I recall flower grow on new growth and I don’t thing I had much of that in the heat. So maybe that is why they did not flower. I am hoping it is the latter but if it is the former then I may not be able to grow these for fruit if chill hours are much higher than 800 (I see ranges published from 800-1400 hours). Next year will be telling. I got good new growth this years so if that is the issue then hopefully they will flower next year. As mention in another post the ones fruiting now I put in the ground in Nov. and they shortly came out of dormancy and grew so that is not typical. But the conclusion is if I can get them to flower I can get them to fruit and will be harvesting in April. Fruits at the same time as my very first strawberries. See what happens next year. Would love to get berries as they taste good sour and sweet, but when Aurora was sweet it was fantastic.

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Great report. All the best to you for flowers next season! I look forward to reading your report next year.

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When you can grow citrus, blackberries, sweet cherries, and such other goodies, why settle for honeyberries? I grow lots of them, but they wouldn’t be my first choice if I could grow better things.

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