Hello 
Im new in here. I have never grown this. I live in north norway. Im wondering…when do you take cuttings? Is it ok to take it now ?
YEich is the best way to do it?
Best wishes from Elisa
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I cut the cuttings 2-3 weeks after flowering. Almost everything takes root for me in the fog. now I have Aurora, Blizzard and Vostorg spiked. They already have roots and in a few days I will start to harden them.
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Let everyone plant an Aurora. This year’s harvest:
Na druhom mieste je odroda Fialka, potom Vostorg a Blizzard.
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Here I experimentally planted Aurora and Vostorg in 90L containers. I am trying to see if it is sustainable and suitable for those who have no other option. There is a nop foil inside and the container is raised by 15 cm, sawdust fills the container and a 3 cm layer of ash. Then the compost in which the plant is planted. The hole in the container is drilled 15 cm from the bottom of the container.
The video shows a 3-year-old Vostorg, which was also covered with fruit last year. Auroras are planted before the moon and grow, as if from water.
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Nice😍
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Viktor,are you on instagram ? Is it possible to follow you there? Do you share much haskap info there ?
When these plants are older, they can be shaped like a tree. They give birth for the second year and the fruits are large. The video shows the Amfora variety, which was completely cut 10 cm from the ground in the fall of 2021. In 2022, 1m shoots grew, which were tied to two sticks. This year, they give birth like this:
Well, here are the bushes cut last fall. Young seedlings of the Vostorg variety were planted between them.
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No, I’m not on Instagram. On Facebook - Haskap, on YouTube and a lot of information is also available on: KIWIFORUM.cz • Zobrazit téma - Kamčatská borůvka
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I found you on facebook and you tube now:+1: Im sitting and looking at some clips on you tube 
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My collection is already in full swing.
Bushes that are shaped like a tree, so the branches lean to the side, it is lightened in the middle to give space to new shoots. It is important that the lower branches no longer lie on the ground and the losses are minimal. It collects excellently and is aerated. Here is an older bush, 4 years old, after a total fall cut. It is tied at the bottom, but it doesn’t have to be. I’m trying anyway. Specifically, it is the Amfora variety.
Well, here is the Aurora variety 2 years after the total fall cutting near the ground.
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If someone would like to make something similar, here are a couple of photos of how I made the adapter from PPR pipes.
They are ordinary hot water - PPR pipes that can be welded very easily and anyone who works with it can do it in 5 minutes. The plastic is quite strong and the diameter of the pipes is 1/2" - 20 mm. The guide sleeve is made of 3/4" PPR fitting. Inside there is a partition and a hole that is 20 mm, with less clearance. Well, something other than a guide sleeve can be used.
PPR pipes are better than metal material, as the diameter of 20 mm prevents damage to the twigs during shaking.
Mount the saw-shaped fixing part and screw into the PPR pipe to fix it with a locking mechanism, like a regular saw. And mount the guide part.
I used an M14 stainless steel threaded rod that could easily be screwed into the inner hole of the PPR pipe and drilled a hole for a pin or screw across it. I cut the threaded rod with an angle grinder and basically made a copy of the saw blade mounting part.
It works great
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Your fabrication skills exceed mine…
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you could also make a cut into the treaded rod and take a fitting from the original blade and either pin it in there or weld it. dont know if it will hold up better than your design Victor but it could be done that way also. nice work!!
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Steveb4
The marerial is hard and brittle from the saw. It is a problem to fasten it and it breaks. I already tried it. The best is a threaded rod made of stainless steel - alloy steel. It is a strong and flexible material and it can be drilled, it already has a thread and it is a piece of cake to screw it into a PPR pipe. The main thing is that it is durable from alloy steel.
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thank you. Will give it a try. too much work picking these bushes by hand.
I’m in zone 8, Texas Hill Country. We’ve had upper 95-100 degree days for the last two weeks, and I thought I’d post about how my new honeberry planting is doing. I ordered Tana, Keiko, Strawberry Sensation, Boreal Beauty, Blizzard & Beast. The plants were planted in late April. Beauty and Strawberry Sensation were plugs. The plug of beauty was planted in a pot, but I panicked on thrip damage and transplanted it in the ground, where it succumbed. This was grower error. The strawberry sensation I left in a pot despite the thrip damage and its currently doing quite well., despite a minor nutrient deficiency that will soon be corrected. Keiko and Tana seem to be doing better than the other two, but it’s too early to tell I think.
Plants are mulched and receive shade starting at about 2 pm to night, from two pecan trees nearby. They get watered like a vegetable (watered whenever my garden gets watered). Plants are nicely mulched.
No dormancy yet. I’m hoping they won’t go dormant because they need root development.
On a side note, would it be cool if I started a separate thread for southern/hot climate honeyberry production? @FarmGirl-Z6A @Buckeye @Petebacher @Darby64
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My Boreal Beast flowered in April… fruited early this year in May… now its setting flowers again for another fruit crop?
I am pretty new to honeyberries and didnt know that they keep setting fruit.
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Bernis of HoneyberryUSA is always interested in growing info on honeyberries performance in the south. maybe send her some pics and updates on how your plants are faring.
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Absolutely! 
I think they start flowering again sometimes when they are stressed. Did you have unusually dry/hot weather?