What's your favorite cheap and bulk organic balanced fertilizer

Im still on the fence about my persimmon trees… Lehman says to use 1lb of fertilizer per tree…hard to go against his recommendations.

I woodchip all of my fruit trees and i have THE nicest weeds growing around them that anyone could ever want. Man they really thrive in woodchips… I have some areas of my yards and plantings that eat the heck out of some woodchips…its like a magic trick… I guess thats the living soil that i want though.

The weeds that i seemed to complain about…maybe a bonus… it seems that the stronger the root system of a grass or weed…the better the mycorrhizal network

So even though some folks say that woodchips deplete nitrogen… stuff sure does grow well in it… and that makes other things grow which i think in the end makes a happier tree and root system.

Leaves- i put them in my walkways… where most of my roots are anyways. Especially my berries. Its where they fall anyways when the canes are spent…its where the leaves fall from my fruit trees when they get to bearing size… I think thats intended… I see folks mounding them up near the trunk… when i think the fact is that the feeder roots are many many feet away… i know that suckers will pop up way far away from the main mother…so i gotta think there is feeding going on that far away also.

Happy walkways and aisles for me… hopefully that pays off.

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I like woodchips and leaves. Has all the nutrients you want plus other benefits.

Chipdrop dot com can deliver 100% free a boatload of chips… WARNING IT’S A LOT OF CHIPS!
It took a year to go from 12" of chips to about 2" then I put on another 4-6" a year… once you are maintaining the chips Your dirt will be able to perform miracles!

Where I’ve seen it go wrong is people burying the chips, or letting them touch tree trunks, or people planting in wood instead of the dirt below.

I used raised beds with good soil until my wood chips conditioned the ground into excellent soil.

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Sure, great stuff but sometimes something quick release and more concentrated is needed- usually to push plants to early establishment or to serve the fruit in early spring, before compost is releasing much N. .

For fruit trees in the humid region you really don’t want to depend on high organic content of soil to nourish your fruit trees- it’s great for corn and most vegetables but once fruit trees bear too rich a soil reduces the quality of the fruit and increases the need to prune. In the west it isn’t such a problem because you can control water which controls vigor.

The N. that serves fruit is what the tree takes in early spring. Organic, slow release sources increase release as the soil warms and encourages vegetative growth because of its timing.

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No doubt… Clark and I and others just recently took advantage of Stark’s sale… planting a tree in July needs all the help it can get.

I do it on my plug plants as well… i give them the best that i can and fertilize to get them going… after they are going and established then i just let them do their thing.

You are right on fertilizing bearing fruit trees… one of the ‘experts’ with a nursery on FB takes pics of how lush and big his trees are…then he posts videos of all the pruning he has to do… the newest one with electric shears.

I just want little fruit trees for my personal usage… Less vigor is good for me… A basket of fruit per tree is great and all i want/need.

I see plenty of trees grown in pots that would be good enough for me.

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Bears repeating. Even a few trees can be a lot of work!

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This is not true for fruit trees. Also, raw wood chips infamously contain pests and diseases.

For us non-organic folks (without easy access to manure) real-chemical-name fertilizers applied based on actual soil tests taken from time to time are the way to go in my opinion.

Note: breaking down wood chips at high temps using urea and then bringing the nearly finished compost up to “rich loam” standards using the aforementioned nutes seems to solve disease issues for me, but I admit I live in an area where disease pressures are light.

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Kind of depends on what the soil is to begin with. Koko suggests soil tests and when I started out I always took full soil tests before installing an orchard. Now I often only check the pH and make the adjustments on that. Existing non-fruit trees on a site can tell you a lot. Nothing wrong with the soil tests but if you are having a real problem, leaf analysis will give you a clearer picture of what’s happening, although dong both would be the ticket, IMO. But I’d only go to the effort if productivity was a problem and it seldom is.

My customers are not particularly worried about bins per acre and if we can keep squirrels and birds from the fruit there is usually going to be much more than needed or used.

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Like you I pay more attention to Ph and the new leaves. Hydroponics teaches you that pretty quick!
I also do soil testing for each of my grow areas and treat each separately.
When I do need to make quick adjustments I always do foliar applications.
I am also not concerned about a massive production, I want a superior product. Organic has done that for me in my own experiences. Not that I haven’t seen more impressive looking traditional farm produce.

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When I had lights and was growing some stuff indoors, I bought a bottle of FoliagePro. That seemed to have the right proportions plus micros, but wasn’t cheap.

What do you use for your fertigation?

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Foliar sprays I use most are Compost tea, seaweed emulsion, fish emulsion, and epsom salts.

@murky
I have Dosatron D45RE15VFII injectors, chosen for my water pressure of ~50 psi. There are 3 “circuits”, each drawing out of a 50 gallon tank of concentrate. The municipal water here is pH ~8.1 so I’m treating it with N-pHuric to bring down the pH but it also adds N. One of the circuits serves the fruit trees, interstitial flower gardens, and nursery stock. For this circuit I also mix in two water solubles containing micros to achieve ~3:1:2, targeting < 100 ppm N. At present these are 16-8-24 and 5-50-17.

Iff I were growing indoor flowers… I would have the bulk of my nitrogen in my tank. Foliar is more for emergencies after the lights go out. Stuff like SSU 0-0-3 is pretty great.

Getting to know arboristsin your area and letting them know what you do and don’t want helps prevent diseases.

Some of the nicest richest soil I have ever seen grew really nice fruit. I guess I don’t understand why having good Veganic nutrients available would be bad.

Often the potential for pests and diseases in wood chips is blown out of proportions. Heck dirt is full of pests and diseases, people don’t seem to hyper focus on that as much.

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I have a woodchip pile or two that i keep just for habitat… I have one near my house that has really changed my thinking.

In this one woodpile i found a huge ant nest… but that brought in these lizards that i have never ever seen get that big! I stuck a shovel in and a whole family of fat lizards came out…scared the crap out of me…but they were eating ant larvae.

I had a mole that made a home in that pile and i could clearly see his hole… so i stuck my shovel in and prodded gently and a snake came out… he/she went in and ate them i guess.

So yes lots of bugs and stuff live in woodchips…but predators dont take long to figure that out… and its like a Golden Corral buffet for them.

The moles probably went looking for grubs…which they eat… the snakes at the moles.

I need more snakes and lizards and predators that eat bugs so that i dont have to spray.

I see posts about what to spray for leafhoppers etc… when there are lizards and birds that love to eat them and feed them to their babies.

Ants, Lizards, Spiders etc all live in woodchips and hunt them… and also eat the bugs that are on trees that folks want to spray.

A woodchip pile is a good investment… in Clarks wording of his pond.
At least it is where i live.

This past week i was moving my woodchips in my canefruit rows by hand so that they dont get compacted and it was going to rain… i found several garter snakes living in them… :heart_eyes:

Alot of stuff goes on in woodchips that you probably dont notice.

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back behind the land that i just planted there’s about 100 acres that was selective cut 4 years ago. for some reason they pulled all the debris out to the road and chipped it into 2 huge 15ft. tall piles. ive been using this to mulch my trees. the other day i drove by there on utv and noticed a big hole dug into the top of 1 of them. seems there is a big sow black bear in the area so she must have dug into there to eat the carpenter ants ive seen in there. she dug down a good 6ft from the top. must have been a big nest. another 3 -4 years should convert these piles into nice soil. i might help it along with some urine. :wink:

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I’m sure it varies by locale. Down here the potential is high.

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I can’t assume that my compost has everything. Not in the Rocky Mountain foothills. Maybe Back East.

When I tested, (just once I admit, but the chips at the transfer station shouldn’t vary that much,) my urea-decomposed wood chip compost was totally, or almost totally deficient in Boron and Copper. Moderately deficient in Zinc and Iron. OK but marginal in Magnesium.

So I make amendments accordingly. Using real chemical name ferts.

I should retest just to see how well I’m hitting the mark in application rates.

I can’t argue with the results but I’m skeptical that you could hit the results I got just by eyeballing it.

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Possibly an unpopular opinion, but organic fertilizer and chemical fertilizer serve two different roles, and you should be using both.

Organic “fertilizer” (manure, compost, wood chips, really organic matter) is probably the only time and effort efficient way to increase your soil organic matter. That higher level of organic matter (referred to as humus, although it’s debatable if “humus” actually exists per se) is beneficial in a bunch of different ways, from higher microbial activity to better soil characteristics.

What organic fertilizer is not good at, is providing a steady quantity of free nutrients, in the correct ratios, with sufficient and balanced micro nutrients, at a high rate. Organic fertilizer does provide some readily available nutrients, and if you add a lot then it can provide a lot, but the NPK levels are always fairly low, and never balanced, and micronutrients are always extremely unbalanced. Sure, if you dose your plants weekly with a very careful blend of fish and bone meals, powdered kelp, a mixture of manures of known age, rock dust, Epson salt, and about a dozen other ingredients, all measured and calibrated, then you will achieve the same nutrient loading as using a water soluble commercial fertilizer, for about ten times the effort and a hundred times the cost.

Organic matter builds the soil, increase microbial activity, decreases certain diseases, and increases soil chemical buffering, drainage, and water retention. That’s what it does, that’s what it’s for, that’s how you should use it. Organic matter builds the soil. Fertilizer, on the other hand, provides unnaturally large quantities of the nutrients your plants need in the correct ratios (even if you are using natural fertilizers, the amount your garden gets is way, way more than that happens in nature. Buffalo don’t apply an even three inches of manure over the entire prairie every two months, but you do that and more to your garden. Gardening isn’t natural, and it isn’t supposed to be.). Fertilizer builds the plants.

Given all of that, when looking for cheap, bulk, balanced organic fertilizer, it makes the most sense to keep in mind that “balanced” and “fertilizer” are at odds with “cheap, bulk, organic (matter).” Remember, organic matter and fertilizer are two different things that have different garden roles. So, pick one and go for it, don’t try to please two masters at the same time. If you want balanced organic fertilizers, take out a bank loan and go buy the fancy bags of ground fish guts and burnt pig bones at Lowe’s. If you just want organic fertilizer, dump some horse poop on your garden, but remember that it’s not even close to balanced, so you’re going to need to buy the fancy stuff from Lowe’s anyway. Or… ditch the “balanced fertilizer” part, and find whatever “cheap, bulk, organic matter” is readily available.

For me, the local county waste dump and recycling center has piles of chipped up yard waste from the city that they give out at very low cost or free, and there are several horse boarding barns around that also sell their used beddings for cheap. That’s where I get my cheap, bulk, organic matter. Chipdrop is a popular service that provides loads of woodchips as well, but I’ve not had to use them. Actual farmers are unlikely to give you some of their waste, mostly for legal reasons and scale, but you could try your luck. Similarly, coffee places do have used grounds that they might give you, but the time it takes just to get those grounds isn’t worth the measly few pounds you’ll get, to my mind anyway. And, for similar reasons, using fresh, untreated human waste as fertilizer really isn’t worth the health hazards for the tiny bit of N and basically nothing else it contains.

As for fertilizers, I use a combination of generic slow release stuff (the cheapest Walmart 10-10-10 I can find) and a balanced water-soluble fertilizer that is sold as a “greenhouse fertilizer.” I also spot fertilize with custom applications of other fertilizers on an as-needed basis, which I get as big bags of super phosphate, iron chelate, magnesium salts, lime, sulfur, etc from the county farm depot. That water-soluble fertilizer is very cheap for what it contains (which is everything, even trace minerals), and, like the big bags of individual fertilizers, is easy to find at any of the local warehouses and agricultural depots. Don’t buy anything branded or marketed (Miracle-Grow, Organic, or whatever) unless the branding/marketing makes you feel better than other people, and don’t buy specialized fertilizer at a place with a customer service desk–buy it where the farmers buy theirs.

In short, be pragmatic: after a few months or a year, organic matter is organic matter, just use whatever is the easier and cheapest source, and fertilizer is fertilizer, regardless of if it was made from sun-dried organic kelp or made in a factory, so just focus on what is well-balanced and affordable.

Growing a $100 worth of berries with $10 of chemical fertilizer and cheap organic matter yourself does you and the world more good than growing $10 worth of berries with $100 worth of organic fertilizer, and a heck of a lot more than buying $110 worth of berries grown either way.

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