White Winter Pearmain

In my experience apple trees slow down a lot when the central leader is cut and scaffolding is forced by repeated selective pruning of side branches. After 3-5 years of getting the desired shape they’ll be a few years of little required maintenance. Then the scaffolds will start sending whips skyward!


Great info. TY for your advice. I will give a few of mine a try like that.


Janet - not being one to trust apple ripeness here by the color of skin, picked a few samples from our tree and víola, we have chicken-apple burritos for dinner! The chicken was baked but the apples were just peeled and diced before rolling the tortillas.


I am so glad to enter this community of like minded people who are growing plants from seeds to ensure the specie survival from disease mutations as the hybrid cultivars continue to ever multiply! I am just starting to try growing fruit trees (yikes, scary! to think that I will get to eat my own fruit before the rats take them!). So the 1st tree I have set my eyes on is St. Edmund Pippin apple tree the Trees Of Antiquity, CA, sells. Any thoughts on growing this apple as a 2 year old plant to a novice, please advise! Since St Edmund requires another pollinator, the TOA nursery suggested to grow White Pearmain or Newtown Pippin as the pollinator apple. Any preferrence? I am in Zone 9, yes, drought has been a problem for decades!

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Oops. Time for a winter fruit thinning.


“I’ll drop my leaves when I’m good and ready, and not a day sooner!”


Looks like this tree is ready for topwork.

White Winter Pearmain – soon to be under stock

Black Limbertwig – soon to be fruit stock


Stumbled across this thread and variety. I was thinking of a single self - fertile apple for low chill. I like that I’ve read this can be used as a cider apple. White Permian looks like a nice apple.

I had a few apple trees a few years ago but took them out. By far the best producer was Stark Golden Delicious.

It needed heavy thinning but each and every fruit got apple spot. OK I never found a disease just called apple spot but I didn’t finds a photo that matches mine well enough.

Apple scab?

Wrong thread but I was pointing out my hesitancy to grow am appel again and end up seeing hundreds of useless fruit.

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My graft of Black Limbertwig on White Winter Pearmain has failed. It looks like a compatibility issue. Consequently I’m going to dig up the W.W.P. this winter and plant the Black Limbertwig in its place.

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@Shibumi It could be scab. Golden Delicious is susceptible to scab and the other three major apple diseases. It also could to be some form of Summer rot. Perhaps it is bitter rot. You might take a look at this thread that discusses Summer rots.

If it occurs early in the season I think it is likely it is scab if it doesn’t show up until the Summer or later it’s more likely it’s a Summer rot. You would be better off planting an apple tree with resistance to multiple apple diseases like William’s Pride or Enterprise. There are other choices too. You might take a look at this apple disease resistance chart if you’re thinking of planting apples again.

Did you spray the apple trees?


Thanks @mroot
. I’ve removed the trees and don’t recall what I sprayed when. I believe the problems showed up when the apples were sized past the half way point… So considering where I live in southern Louisiana I would not be surprised if it as summer rot. Definitely disease as opposed to insect as I cut quite a few open and never found anything.

I had a cinnamon spice apple right next to it, and though it only put on 3 or 4 apples, they did not have the same issue, so I assumed I just got a susceptible variety that just happens to be a huge producer.

It was disappointing.

I’ll take a look at the referenced apples you posted.


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William’s Pride and Enterprise RE both 800+ chill apples.

I’m in zone 9a. Even in a cold winter I doubt I get much above 500.

As mentioned in another thread this is the issue with using published chill hour requirements as a home grower. Have these varieties even been grown in a warmer winter area to know if they produce.

As some here say chill hours for apples may not be applicable in general.

Thanks for the disease resistance chart link.


I read chill does apply to apples and pears. Google DWN near Great Park.

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I don’t think published chill hours for apples mean much. The charts are inaccurate in many cases. Kuffel Creek nursery covers this issue on their website. Kuffel Creek nursery is located in Riverside, CA which isn’t far from Los Angeles and is located in zone 9B. They discuss the issue on their FAQ page and on their " growing apples in the tropics" page linked below.


William’s Pride and Enterprise have both been grown successfully in Riverside, CA. Both are listed on the nursery’s apples for hot climates list. William’s Pride is currently offered by them. Enterprise was offered and successfully grown there but they stopped offering it because of royalty costs. See this link-


William’s Pride is also on his favorite apple list-



I fruited Williams Pride in San Diego!


I’ll read up.


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Great read on apples and want climates.

Thanks. I was looking for so e reference for the issue.



Can anyone give any description of eating this apple? Also, disease resistance? Thanks, this one sounds very interesting - its also on Tom Burford’s top 20 apples list.

Great links, TY.

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Saint Edmunds blooms mid-season among apples, most others are likely to work with it. Newtown Pippin used to be grown near me, where summers are hot & dry. They were good. I cannot speak to WWP, having never encountered it in eastern WA. Newtown & St. Edmunds would make for quite the contrast, in looks, harvest time, flavors and uses. Newtown was hard at harvest, with an unusual pine overtone I love. Kept longer than my parents would ever keep an apple.

St. Edmunds also is grown right next to the Columbia River, at one orchard I drive 150 miles to try their heirloom apples, so more humidity on the bank than at my home. It might do fine in your spot, too. Water it deeply once a week in the dry season. You want deep roots.