Tetraploid in Central FL. Thank you for the resource!
I want to make sure I’m reading your post correctly. Did you say that one parent of Nikitskaya Bordovaya was a D.v. x D.k. hybrid and the other parent unknown open pollinated? Likely either D.v. or D.k? Or is it possible that the other parent was also a interspecies hybrid?
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If memory serves correctly, I’m fairly sure that Nikitskaya Bordovaya (Nikita’s Gift) is a seedling of the D.v.XD.k hybrid, Rosseyanka, back-crossed to D.kaki… making it, theoretically, 3/4 D.k.-1/4 D.v.
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@murky
According to the List of Hybrid Persimmons in the U.S.:
Nikitskaya Bordovaya = Rossiyanka (D.v. × D.k.) × OP (D.k.)
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I’m very new with grafting but I think I’m looking at a new project next year!
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Nice collection in Mass.
Dar Sofiyivky, Roman Kosh, Journey, Dr. Kazas & others
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I assumed all persimmon seedlings have red stems when first emerging.
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Anthocyanin in young stems and leaves is a common trait found in pecan, hickory, and walnut. It is highly variable with some seed lines producing red seedlings and others green.
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I’ve no experience with the two subspecies of American persimmon (D. virginiana), but the new stems of Asian persimmon (D. kaki) have always emerged green in my location.
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Sweet! Thank you.
Anyone purchased scion from madcat lately? Prok scion is $7 but most is $4. Anyone know why? https://www.madcatfarm.com/persimmon-scion
I think I’m noticing some difference in “toughness” of the varieties. Not only which ones can survive winter, but which ones can survive the crazy temperature fluctuations that some of us see. In the fall, we had a sudden drop of temps. Winter was mild (for this area). This spring, we had 90s followed by a morning of 16F. Some American varieties were damaged severely (burned back to the ground). Some not at all. Some in between. WS8-10 (Barbra’s blush) might one of the tougher ones. I’m still learning more about this, but some of the reported “hardy” ones perhaps harden off too late to handle the sudden drastic reversal of temps in the fall, or wake up too early in the spring. Morris Burton might be one of the less “hardy” ones (with damage on multiple trees). I need to make a note of this.
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Let me try to walk around later if I’m able and take some notes about damage and bloom density. I think early golden was fine in all areas, but let me verify for sure. I had read that early golden is fairly cold hardy, and I saw some source that suggested it might be more cold hardy than Meader from someone who was growing it northerly. I don’t have Meader to do a comparison (and don’t plan to).
Interesting thing with JT02 is I think the winter damage didn’t burn back my trees (let me check to be sure), but it did cause them to barely bloom.
I had one rootstock that had damage like this. It was slow to wake, and I thinned it out. The living wood was on the northern side.
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Was pricing early golden persimmons and others and noticed the prices are really up $179 Early Golden Common Persimmon Treeling | Bower & Branch
$99 Early Golden Persimmon - 3 Gallon Container - Grimm's Gardens
Englands is one of the most reasonable but trees are small which means some babying is needed at $35
Grafting skills pays off at $4 scions
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John, do you know if the pictured damage happened during winter, or after the Spring 90F/16F event?
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I can’t say with absolutes, but I think that it was the 90/16 event. I wondered if the sun from the south could have warmed the south side of the tree more than the north and then it got hurt worse? Just spitballing.
I had some jujube damaged in interesting ways. Jujube planted by our deck on the south side of the house got their branches closest to the deck uniformly damaged where i expected it would be warmer… but maybe the warmth of the deck made the branches closest to the house wake up sooner.
Another jujube planted just south of a building killed down to all but the lower branches. The ground was warm when it happened. I had just a few apple blooms survive… also protected and closest to the ground.
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