@aheartforhome
sorry for hijacking your thread for a discussion about dwarfing rootstock.
I think a lack of TLC can enlarge small differences between plants by a lot.
Some rootstocks (like MM111) are known for being able to take care of itself (handle neglect) but thats usually only true once they reach a certain size. Before that size they still need a bit of care.
Maybe a vole or something else damaged the MM111 tree’s so they where a bit behind the pomme gris. The pomme gris might have gotten at a point (large enough rootsystem) where it could not only survive the lack of TLC. But reasonably thrive.
To me it seems like your MM111 tree’s got stuck in the survive but not thrive state. I also see quite a lot of flower buds.
I think a heavy pruning + thinning of flower buds combined with some TLC should make it possible to get a good open vase framework within 2 years. And after that you can skip thinning the spurs/flower buds.
Where i differ from some others, is the central leader idea.
I think your choice to prune relatively low and go for an open center tree was a logical one for your whishes. It certainly worked out for the pomme gris! i quite like that tree!
From what i understood, you want to have a low but wide tree, for easy reaching/maintenance. An open center tree without central leader is a great form for that.
If you think there is still enough uncertainty in the cause of the difference between tree’s to do further investigations.
I would start with a soil test. But personally i would dig up 1 MM111 tree. And look at the roots. And see if i can find a obvious sign of something wrong. The dolgo tree seems like a good candidate for that.
When digging it up, you damage the roots. And thus ideally prune to the top of the tree to match the smaller rootsystem. The dolgo would receive heavy pruining from me anyway since i don’t really like it’s framework. And you need to remove suckers.
It will likely cost you a years worth of growth. But that would be a price i would be willing to pay. If you would to, is up to you.
To me it seems your left with the question “what rootstock to choose for the next apple tree’s.”
I know it seems like poor advice. But MM111 still seems like a good choice for your circumstances. (low vigor inducing soil/care/circumstances)
Only reason to switch i can think of, is maybe if you find signs of phytophthora root/collar rot Table of Apple Rootstock Susceptibility to Phytophthora spp. – Apples
G16 and MM111 seem reasonably close in resistance to that. But the MM111 might be susceptible to a strain that the G16 can handle better.
You could also go for G16 stock for new apples. But that is supposed to be dwarfing. And that combined with your low vigor circumstances (for apples) and a low vigor scion could yield you vigor problems.
going for a seedling stock is another option. But once that goes from “survival” to “thriving” state. It’s lower precocity might make it to vigorous.
i am on a different continent though. So if you get advice from some-one with more similar growing conditions, value their advice over mine.