What part are you drenching? Just the branches, trunk, and leaves, correct?
I want something just for the roots
No, it is a soil drench, a systemic insecticide.
This is the kind I used:
Be aware, this product can kill pollinators. The directions tell you to do the soil drench after blooming is done for the year. I do not think this will be a problem for your young trees, though.
B9 is not resistant to WAA. I have a bunch or B9 and see some WAA around root suckers from time to time but they have not been a big problem so far. B9 does produce smaller trees than expected on most varieties. My 2 year old G11 and G41 trees are larger than many of my 5 year old B9 trees
Here is a pretty good chart on WAA on most rootstocks:
Blueberry - the information in your link is contradicted by the links I am posting below for MM106 -
http://jenny.tfrec.wsu.edu/opm/displayspecies.php?pn=410
I have always read that MM106 is Wooly Aphid resistant - I hope your link is wrong as I have 1/2 a dozen trees on MM106. And your link does not mention MM111 which is a popular rootstock.
I hate to think I am wasting time and money on the MM106 trees. I am paranoid, I will fret if they donāt grow over the Wooly Aphid bogeyman.
Spud,
@blueberrythrillās chart is from Washington U.
This chart is from Cornell U. Looks like your 106 rootstock is highly resistant to Woolly Aphids, if I read it correctly.
Disclaimer - I donāt know how old this chart is, though.
http://www.ctl.cornell.edu/plants/GENEVA-Apple-Rootstocks-Comparison-Chart.pdf.
Looks like the experts disagree! I expect one is wrong, but its interesting that both your link and my link are from Washington State University.
I did notice that the link I sent was for M106EMLA and what you sent was for Malling-Merton (MM).
M106EMLA (my link) is a virus free clone of the MM106 (your link) which I would expect to be identical to the MM version except for virus but they are technically different rootstocks. Iām not sure it that would account for the disagreement between different experts from WSU.
just came in from outside and upon checking my medlars (I know, who eats those thingsā¦but I really like weird things) I noticed the main stems are about 1/3rd covered with wolly aphids. I know colder temps will likely put a hurting on living insects at that time, but should I try to do something to deal with them now? Iād prefer to not go crazy with insecticide as my medlars will likely be ready within a week or two.
I took a picture, if anyone is interestedā¦
Scott
I regularly see WAA on apple trees I manage all over my region, but theyāve never become a problem here in the S. NY-Ct region. I doubt here or where you are that they tend to do much damage to trees on vigorous root stocks. In 25 years here I havenāt had a problem with the thousands of trees Iāve managed.
I canāt be bothered obsessing on every pest that shows up in orchards so I wait until they become problematic.
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This is my magness pear on OHxF87 I grafted 3 years ago. It has always had the bumps on the leaves since I grafted it.
As soon as the leaflets open up it has them. Would this be more of a mineral deficiency? I have had aphids on trees before so iām familiar with signs and ants. This seems different.
Pear blister mites. Lime sulfur spray is very effective. Some people use sulfur spray.
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How large did your G. 11 get? Thanks
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Iāve never heard of lime-sulfur for this- the usual treatment prescribed in the east is 2% hort oil just before first growth. However, upon looking it up, I discover that UC Davis recommends sulfur as well as oil for control. I think Iād rather stick to oil- sulfur is nasty stuff. However, it does provide a later treatment option. Learn something newā¦
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Sulfur is very effective against all forms of eriophyid mites
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We are talikng about pear blister mites, not wooly aphids, right?
I used to spray with just sulfur. Not working. Lime sulfur has worked well for me. I think I got the advice to use lime sulfur from @scottfsmith. I am surprised youāve never heard of it being used for pear blister mites. It has been mentioned several times on posts about pears.
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I may miss more posts than you do. I donāt really worry about PBM- pears have much bigger problems than that- mainly psyla.
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PBM makes leaves look ugly. Agree that pear psylla is a serious issue and harder to deal with.
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@thepodpiper
Have you gotten rid of your troubled trees?
One of my B9 apple trees has had this issue on and off for 3-4 years now. It is back again this year.
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Do you squish them or spray? Supposedly a simple mix of water and dish soap can kill them although Iāve never tried it.
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