There are advantages to both grafted and ungrafted. Carmine jewell cherries are not grafted and quickly spread through suckers at around year 5
Blackberries like these are not grafted and spread through the ground quickly.
Pears like these rootstocks i grafted after they grew out and established roots. The scion i graft to the rootstock determines how long it takes to fruit primarily. The rootstock once established as long as its a known type produced in a certain number of years. Seedling rootstocks can influence years to fruit though.
No it is relevant believe it or not. Grafted versus ungrafted fruits makes a difference in not only how it is propagated but also in years it takes to fruit. A carmine jewell cherry takes a few years to yield a couple of fruits. A seedling of carmine jewell might take 2 years or 10 years or a few years like the parent.
@Shibumi
Like you, all my fruiting trees except figs are purchased as a cultivar grafted on rootstock. Also, nearly all of the rootstock are clones (rootings of roots!). So my apple on M-111 has not had its clock set by the rootstock. Instead, the roots need to develop a resource capacity before the plant as a whole can produce significant crops.
You might also enjoy these threads since rootstocks determine more than just the number of years until a tree produces fruit. Choose your rootstocks wisely!
Thats exactly how I feel. I have a list of trees/grafts with a mark fruited or not and one fruit gets it on the list. Having said that, I have a large 8 year old McIntosh on MM111 that has exactly one fruit–it’s first. I think we had a party to celebrate. Sorr of a coming of age party.
I’m expecting a good crop of nectarines, pluots, and apricots in the second leaf. I’ve done that before. Not a big crop but 10-40 fruit per tree. Basically, all the fruit that the tree can support without excessive bending. And I’ll likely tie up the branches if that’s an issue.
I had a massive crop of apples on dwarfing rootstock in CA in the second leaf. I was amazed. Quality wasn’t very good because I did it by pushing water and fertilizer like there was no tomorrow. I’d say 30 lbs per tree.
This is the picture of my Frost Peach last year when it was planted from a 10 gallon pot. Our landscaping company planted the tree digging a large enough hole to drop in the entire content from the pot.
I knew nothing about growing fruit trees and let it fruit. Strangely 2022 was one of the wettest year in PNW where the rains stopped in 3rd week of June and sun came out in July. But this picture was taken during the 2nd week of June. We got over a dozen fruits. I still can’t explain how did this tree manage to fruit in the strangest unfavorable conditions.
This year there are two golf ball sized fruits and I have hacked the tree trying to learn training trees.
Remember my other posts. Your first yr for this tree just letting it grow is what I’m doing in my greenhouse now. The second yr you hacked away at it causing the tree to respond with vigorous growth in an attempt to retake it’s lost space. That hacking, and vigorous regrowth, delays fruiting.
Mid May I noticed it wasn’t showing much growth and many branches were bare without any leaf out activity. This was when we had unusually warm spring. Then I found growing fruit forum, then I read copious amount of fruit knowledge, then I hacked it
Is it going to set fruit next year? given it has vigorous growth.
@Oregon_Fruit_Grow
I allow newly planted fruit trees 4 to 5 years before making conclusions about their fruiting behavior and fruit quality in my climate.
