Hello:). My name is Josh. I am a newby fruit grower. To my recollection, this is my first time posting here but I have been mooching information from this community for the last 18 months. Thank you! I purchased the persimmon in the images below from the online retailer Perfect Plants out of Florida. It is supposed to be a Prok persimmon. It was planted last fall (2023). This spring it leafed out and has been growing well. The leaves and stems have good turgor so far. This issue is that it’s leaves have remained almost completely yellow while the other american persimmon close by have healthy green leaves. As far as I have read on here and online, it seems this issue could be caused by several other issues (poor drainage, transplant shock, nutrient deficiency, it is not a prok persimmon). My initial thinking is that the area it is planted in has poor drainage. It is still a small tree and has been planted about 8 inches above grade lessening the risk that it is drowning. I did however ammend the soil with compost increasing the risk that it is sitting in a bath of water. We have been getting a ton of rain this spring. Due to the tree being seemingly healthy, my main fear is the tree might just be a kaki persimmon. From what i have read they often leaf out yellow and later turn green. If anyone could share thoughts or experiences similar to this it would be appreciated. Also, is there anyway to confirm the species of persimmon except letting it grow? Long winded post to get to the questions. Sorry. I am off to dig a hole to check drainage in that area. Thanks again for all the knowlege posted here. Josh
They are very susceptible to chlorosis in my experience although my soil ph is fairly high which is the main issue. I have a spot where the soil is swampy but drains with better ph and they do fine.
My big concern with it coming from FL is that if the rootstock were locally sourced, they will not survive in zone 6B. I got some persimmon from FL and GA years ago, and it didn’t end well. They would die back to the ground in most winters. I had to source northern rootstock which are quite hardy. Maybe you will get lucky and they got hardy rootstock.
It looks like it really needs some nitrogen. Males have a convenient way to access that. Plus, you get some trace nutrients and water.
John S
PDX OR
Thank you for the quick responses. Then soil pH in the area of the persimmon is 6.5. Unfortunately, I didn’t learn of the importance knowing the type of rootstock when growing grafted persimmon in the northern part of there range. I had already purchased 5 trees from FL and GA before reading about the differences. I dont doubt they will die back in a more severe winter than we last had. Bummer. In hindsight I would have been less impulsive and done more reading on the subject before buying. And Haha. I will try adding some additional nitrogen:). Another question, will a Nikitas Gift grafted to Disopyros Lotus survive harsh winters in 6B? I was able to find get info from one retailer that they use lotus rootstock. Thanks again for your help:). Josh
That ph is perfect so it could be over watering, or lack of nutrients such as nitrogen like @JohnS mentioned.
I wouldn’t think Lotus would survive. There are some discussions on the site about sourcing northern rootstock. That would be your best best long term. The truly hardy northern rootstock are good to -30F to -35F at least. Just plant them, grow them up and then you can graft them. Persimmon graft very easily, and it gives you the option of a bunch of different variety options.
Hello again. I dug around the area this morning and it seems like the soil is draining well. We have had about 3 inches of rain in the last few days on top of already saturated ground so i dont think too much water is the issue. I will try some fertilizer with micronutrients and see if it greens up. I am not going to sweat it too much not knowing what type of rootstock or how it will hold up in a severe winter. And I will be on the hunt for some d. virginiana rootstock and reading up on grafting. Thank you again for your help. Have a good day, Josh
When you get some rootstock, don’t be is a huge hurry to graft them. Let them get their roots established for a season so they aren’t doubly stressed. If you graft to at least 3/8" or 1/2" diameter with established roots, they will take off fast.
@snowflake: Great advice. There is a lot of data suggesting that persimmons take to grafting much better after having been planted for a couple of years or so.
John S
PDX OR
Thank you. I am grateful for both of your help. 2 of the Ruby persimmon I planted last fall failed. The remaining rootstock are putting out new growth. I was thinking of using them to start getting some practice grafting. What would be the best (easiest) method for grafting onto a approx 1/2 inch stump? Or would it be better to just let one of the shoots grow up for a couple of years? Josh
Let it grow. 1st year growth takes to grafting much more readily, as does rootstock that has been in the ground a few years.
John S
PDX OR
Will do. Thanks!