Yes. They’ll fruit at a fairly small size and I’m sure if they came from Lucille they were healthy well-grown plants. I find birds steal most of mine before they are fully ripe and production isn’t very high. Mine is in a rain garden that I don’t amend or fertilize, so hopefully you’ll get more fruit.
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I have had cuttings I just rooted produce some fruit their first spring.
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I am now wondering if I should have gotten them from Lucille as well given the questions around whether everyone is selling the “original” strain or not. Might get one from her too if I can.
Emailed if she still had any Langley gage GB available, but I haven’t heard back 
If you get stuff from Lucille let me know how to do it. She seems to carry a lot of uncommon stuff. That perks my interest. @SoCalBackyard
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Call her. She takes orders over the phone. Her plants are very healthy and shipped well.
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Where did you get your crandall from? Mine produces extremely heavily even though its one of the few plants that I simply don’t water and have only lightly fertilized once over the years.
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Glad to hear yours produces well. Mine came from Pense Berry Farm.
Besides not doing anything for it, the other plants in the rain garden probably crowd its roots and shade it a lot in the summer, so maybe it is just an issue of competition. I will admit I haven’t given it a lot of help over the years, mostly since I tried the fruit early on and thought it was okay but not great. I had expected to like them more, since many people speak highly of them, but everyone’s tastes are different and it just didn’t do it for me. I do enjoy the flowers early in the season.
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I got the 2 Crandall clove currants… 2 Jeanne gooseberry and an Oscar mulberry from Lucille this spring.
Last year I got a silk hope mulberry from her.
She is very nice and everything I have purchased from her has been very good quality.
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I last ordered from her in the beginning of February and she did not have any then.
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That’s a fine family business. I would not worry about your plants. Sometimes they are small but I never heard of a mix up from them.
Not much to see this time of year here. Both my cordons are unfinished. One is just a growing plant. I lost two in that spot. I finally got it growing in the spot. Now to form the trunk. The other has a trunk, still thin and gangly looking. It will grow thicker.
The top was pinched to form two growing points. They grew out a little and the season ran out. I will use these to form the top of the “T”.
This plant is in the ground as you can see. I grow currants in containers but I always viewed them as temporary. Finding the best cultivar before I put them in the ground. But some are now 8 to 10 years old now. Here are some.
In the background above on the left is White Gold sweet cherry and on the right is a pluot tree with multiple pluots grafted on. Today the first flowers on the pluots are opening. In a week the peaches will open.
Speaking of peaches here is a four year old peach tree seedling from Indian Free peach. I cut them way down at the end of last year. I should have done it a year earlier.
Another peach both in 25 gallon root pouches.
Coming toward the camera is a graft of Hollywood plum. Both trees produced about ten fruit last year. Probably less this year I cut most of the fruiting wood off to form scaffolds. I have not picked all future scaffolds so extra branches still on them for now.
Not much growth here except my garlic bed. This was made of scrape wood. I plan to replace with two smaller metal raised beds.
I do still have the mother Indian Free in ground
The container trees will be grown as semi bonsai trees.
Ten year old Indian Free peach
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According to Lucile some nurseries may be selling seedlings. My crandall bears abundantly with just a few hours of sun a day. That could potentially be the issue.
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I got 3 Hinnomaki Yellow gooseberries, 1 Cornus mas variegata and 1 Gerardi mulberry from her this spring. All well sized for the price. The gooseberries are a foot tall and VERY well branched, the other two are at 1.5 feet (Gerardi) and 2+ feet for the Cornus mas.
Delivery was when I requested (which is sadly rare as many nurseries won’t ship to be early even when requested.
@Drew51 , I’m still in awe over your pruning and ability to keep those prunus species small.
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Great pics. Thanks for sharing! Seems like you have a very productive yard/garden. Nice to see!
Yes that makes sense!
Do these air layer better than propagate from cuttings?
Thanks yes it still surprises me. I’m almost out of fruit. I still have some. We try to eat something, anything from the garden daily. Even through winter. I still have garlic too. I have not bought garlic in 7 years. Some never use it, I can’t use it enough. I do buy garlic sauce as it’s made locally and just the best.
From my seedling peaches
These are white peaches but unlike most these have a nice acid kick being descended from Indian Free.
I really like these peaches but they have a short shelf life. Although with the seedlings each ripens at a different time. So I have a steady supply of fresh peaches. The extras are dried. They are even better dried I can’t stop eating them.
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No need to layer them. They will produce underground stems that send up suckers around the original planting. These can be separated to plant in additional spots.
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I had AI write a propagation article… Im just starting to play with prop this species so I will post updates as I learn. FYI I havent tried this, its just a starting place for some maybe!
How to Propagate Crandall Clove Currant: Hardwood, Softwood, and Layering Methods
The Crandall clove currant (Ribes odoratum ‘Crandall’) is a standout shrub, adored for its fragrant yellow flowers and sweet-tart black berries. For gardeners aiming to create new plants from an existing specimen, propagation can be both a challenge and a delight. Known for its tricky rooting habits, ‘Crandall’ responds to multiple techniques—hardwood cuttings, softwood cuttings, and layering—each with unique advantages. If you’re versed in basic propagation but seek specifics for this cultivar, this guide details all three methods to help you succeed.
Why Propagation Varies
Vegetative propagation ensures ‘Crandall’s’ traits—like self-fertility and flavor—carry over to new plants. Hardwood cuttings, from dormant wood, are slower and less reliable; softwood cuttings, from new growth, root faster but need careful conditions; and layering, using attached branches, is nearly foolproof but takes time. With scant research on ‘Crandall’ itself, these methods adapt Ribes species principles to this cultivar’s quirks.
Hardwood Propagation: The Dormant Season Method
Hardwood cuttings leverage mature, leafless stems in late fall or winter. Here’s the process:
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Timing Take cuttings from late fall to early winter (November to February), after leaf drop but before a hard freeze. As of March 06, 2025, this season’s passed—plan ahead or try another method now.
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Selecting Cuttings Pick healthy, one-year-old stems—pencil-thick (¼ to ½ inch diameter), straight, and disease-free. Choose grayish-brown wood, avoiding green or overly woody stems. Cut 6–10 inches long with 3–4 buds, sparing fruiting branches if berries are a priority.
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Preparation Cut an angle above a bud at the top and straight below a bud at the bottom. Scrape the basal bark to expose the cambium, aiding rooting. Dip in rooting hormone (1000–3000 ppm IBA) for a boost, though some currants root without it.
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Planting Direct Planting: In mild climates, insert into well-drained sandy loam, leaving 1–2 buds above ground. Space 6–12 inches apart; firm soil. Cold Storage: In cold areas, bundle cuttings, store in moist sand at 35–40°F (2–4°C), and plant in spring. ‘Crandall’ likes pH 5.5–7.0 soil—amend clay with compost.
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Rooting Conditions Keep soil moist, not waterlogged; mulch with straw to retain moisture and insulate. Shield from wind and cold with a cold frame if needed. Roots take 2–6 months, showing growth by late spring.
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Aftercare Once rooted (test by tugging), transplant in fall or next spring. Water regularly the first year; prune to 2–3 buds for bushiness.
Hardwood Notes
Success rates (30–60%) and slow rooting make this method tougher, but dormant wood is plentiful.
Softwood Propagation: The Summer Shortcut
Softwood cuttings use new, green growth in early summer, rooting quickly with care:
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Timing Cut in late spring to early summer (May to June), when shoots are flexible but firming up—snapping cleanly, not bending.
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Selecting Cuttings Choose vigorous, non-flowering shoots, 4–6 inches long, with 2–3 nodes. Cut below a node for max rooting potential. Morning cuts retain moisture best.
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Preparation Strip lower leaves, leaving 1–2 at the top. Halve large leaves to cut water loss. Apply rooting hormone (500–1000 ppm IBA)—optional but helpful for ‘Crandall.’
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Planting Plant in a sterile mix (1:1 peat-perlite or sand), burying the bottom node 1–2 inches. Use pots or trays for control; drainage trumps richness.
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Rooting Conditions Maintain high humidity with a plastic bag, dome, or mist, avoiding leaf contact to prevent rot. Place in bright, indirect light at 65–75°F (18–24°C). Keep moist; roots form in 4–8 weeks, signaled by growth or resistance.
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Aftercare Harden off over a week by reducing humidity. Pot up in soil, grow until fall or next spring, then transplant. Water well and shade from harsh sun initially.
Softwood Notes
With 70–90% success and weeks to root, softwood beats hardwood’s pace, though it demands humidity management.
Layering Propagation: The Low-Effort Winner
Layering roots a branch while it’s still attached to the parent plant, offering near-certain success:
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Timing Start in early spring (March to April) as growth begins, or late summer (August) for slower rooting into fall. Spring aligns with ‘Crandall’s’ active season, speeding results.
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Selecting a Branch Choose a low, flexible branch from the current or previous year’s growth—long enough to bend to the ground without snapping (12–24 inches). Young, pliable wood roots best.
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Preparation Pick a section 6–12 inches from the tip. Strip leaves and side shoots from the portion to be buried. Optionally, wound the underside by scraping the bark or making a shallow slit near a node to encourage rooting—‘Crandall’ often roots without this, but it helps.
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Layering Process Bend the branch to touch the soil, keeping the tip exposed. Dig a shallow trench (2–4 inches deep) where the wounded section will sit. Bury the prepared section, pinning it with a U-shaped wire, rock, or peg to hold it down. Cover with soil, leaving the tip (with leaves) above ground. Optionally, mound extra soil or mulch over the buried part for moisture retention. ‘Crandall’ likes well-drained, slightly acidic soil—mix in compost if needed.
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Rooting Conditions Water the buried section regularly to keep soil moist but not soggy—natural rainfall often suffices in spring. No special cover is needed since the parent plant sustains the branch. Roots typically form in 2–6 months, faster in spring (by summer) than late summer (by next spring).
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Separation and Aftercare Check rooting by gently tugging the buried section or digging to inspect for white roots. Once rooted (usually 1–2 seasons), cut the branch from the parent just beyond the new roots. Transplant immediately to its new spot or pot it up to grow stronger before moving. Water well and mulch the first year.
Layering Notes
Layering boasts near-100% success with minimal gear—just soil and patience. It’s slower than softwood but easier than both alternatives, leveraging ‘Crandall’s’ natural vigor.
Crandall-Specific Insights
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Self-Fertility: All methods preserve ‘Crandall’s’ ability to fruit solo.
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Suckering Habit: If propagation fails, disturb roots to sprout suckers for transplanting.
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Anecdotal Hints: Ribes odoratum roots casually from hardwood, thrives with softwood, and excels at layering—‘Crandall’ likely follows suit.
Why It’s Considered Difficult
Hardwood’s 30–60% success and long wait, softwood’s humidity needs, and layering’s patience test contrast with ‘Crandall’s’ sparse documentation. Each method has trade-offs, but all can work.
Final Tips
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Hardwood: Take 10–20 cuttings next dormancy, testing hormone use.
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Softwood: Start in summer with a humid setup.
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Layering: Try spring for speed, using one or two branches. With ‘Crandall’s’ Ribes roots, you’ll soon multiply this aromatic treasure—enjoy the process!
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So that AI generated propagation protocol left out the most reliable propagation method for ‘Crandall.’ Separation of rooted suckers.
Edit: I see it’s kind of implied in the “layering” section. Should be a stand alone as the number 1 method though.
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