these all grafted on three mature peach trees and four peach seeding,3rd leaf.couple of j plum and three Asian pear trees. Still have room for next year.
apricot take rate is in the neighborhood of J plum to me,as long as the tree/rootstock is in good condition and scion is in good condition, the take rate is relatively high. I also found that the take rate is higher when grafted on red leaf plum for some reason. I grafted Peach/Nect , apricot, J. and E. plum, pluots, Mirabelle on red leaf plum. All take except Mirabelle de Nancy
Damson plum grafted to native plum rootstock. I learned after the fact that Pawnee pecan may not make it in zone 5 but I didn’t do my due diligence when ordering the scion so here it is anyway. Both rootstocks were well established so growth is really taking off.
Gonna have to try that.
2018 graft of Nikita’s Gift on seedling persimmon on 5/8.
2017 graft of Early Golden on seedling persimmon on 4/19.
Grafts at my buddy’s lake:
‘Magic Fountain’ persimmon (rootstock I believe it is on the left but the tip bud on the scion is pushing… my buddy told me not to remove the one on the left because it’s coming from the middle of the bud strip)
‘Keystone’ shellbark hickory
‘Fayette’ shellbark hickory. Late to the party but you’ll get some of these, always.
‘Lake Icaria’ shagbark hickory
‘Hark’ pecan (2 grafts)
‘Selbhers’ shellbark hickory
‘Longnecker’ shellbark hickory
‘Simpson #1’ shellbark hickory
Good job. Curious as to what rootstock you used for the pecan and hickory grafts. Is it true that pecan will graft onto a hickory rootstock, or is it the other way around? Or not at all?
The entire Carya genus grafts together. You should graft all onto pecan. There’s an okay exception in that shellbark hickory can be used. It’s fast enough growing.
When shagbark is used it’s too slow and the reason as to why is that shag shuts down early in the year and completely stops growing.
Here is what pecan to shagbark looks like 30 or whatever years later.
Not only is the union out of wack but the size of nuts are smaller and may not even fill properly. The shut down of growing affects many aspects involved.
I hope this helps. I had my 2nd carpal tunnel surgery today so I’m pretty limited to typing for a while.
Rest up, Dax. Come back to us when you’re ready!
Wow good job with those nut grafts. Also I see you tied up your fresh growth, I did not and lost my most vigorous pecan graft but thankfully I had left the other one to grow for now.
Thanks. I put a big old stake on a wild walnut at my neighbor’s that I grafted a heartnut too and I didn’t stay on it and when I went over with tape just days ago to tie it I was too late. I lost a very vigorous 4-5’ shoot that was 3/4th or more severed. I have other grafts on it. I think I may have cut one of them off completely a while ago because it wasn’t the dominant shoot. But, as I looked at the third scion there was what appeared as a ‘green petiole only’ standing up from the tip bud. I decided I’d go look at it in a week or two (and see all three scions then.) Definitely my mistake.
Ok, thanks for the reply. Just a quick question though. What are the pecan rootstocks you are using, are they something hardy like Major or Kanza?
First, my Korean Giant graft grew two leaves right away, which still look pristine, but the graft has not grown at all since. Anything I can do about this?
Second, when is a good time to remove the grafting tape to avoid girdling?
So far none of my grafts have downright failed. The Korean Giant, as I said has stopped growing and one Superior plum graft gets droopy in the day but looks better in the morning.
I leave it on for a year.
When that happens I remove one of the leaves…
Just trim one leaf off the small branch of about 6 leafs?
It doesn’t happen very often but I have had apple and pear grafts leaf out and not grow any more for the year. I don’t understand why but they normally grow well the following year.