Pecans are wimpy. They’re usually the size of the B. walnuts in the photos to follow.
Prunus americana: American plum
Juglans nigra: Black walnut
Juglans nigra
Carya illinoinensis: Pecan. Provenance: Northern pecan
Carya illinoinensis
Carya illinoinensis
Diospyros virginiana: American persimmon
Diospyros virginiana
Amalanchier arborea: Common serviceberry
Amalanchier arborea
Dax
Is this your “to do” list for spring?
hahahaha. This is about 700 of 900 
Dax
I’ve gotton some persimmon rootstock and I’m a new grafter. The more I read the more it scares me. Should I attempt them this year or let the roots grow? Any tips for me?
I say if you don’t have any scionwood to plant them, establish them and graft them a year or (two is better) later.
I’m going to remove myself from this bench grafting cycle, completely.
Dax
I have been sent some wood of three types. I have 10 rootstocks. Some of the stocks had good roots and some had just fine roots on the main tap. I know from getting my Eureka that they don’t grow much til the roots have some time on them.
They need heat and sun. You’re in texas. Wait till temps are consistently 60 plus and you’ll be successful.
Either a well-tilled temporary bed to allow the roots to stretch out or a container.
Dax
So you’re why they are sold out of wild plum rootstock!! 
just kidding.
MO conservation usually sends really good stuff. I just got a bunch of cedars from them yesterday. Ive never had any luck with pecans or pawpaws from them though.
I used to live right near the nursery. Its fun to visit!
Dax, how long can you keep rootstocks in these containers? What is the container size? What type of soil mix is there?
Are you going to plant all of them in the ground this year or some will go to pots/containers?
I’ve got some in containers from last year, all alive.
About one season is all you should do. Ideally though when the roots become active again in mid-summer, they should be potted then. About mid-July here.
I’m taking them all to the field. Once I rip out my conifer landscape this spring I have big plans.
They’re just random Rubbermaid bins I pick up at my local auction. When a lot full of rubbermaid bins with someone’s “life junk” is having difficulty being sold, I usually get it for 5 bucks. I end up taking home 4-8 bins at a time for example.
I had to buy Schultz’s potting mix because Pro-mix wasn’t available here yet. It’s moisture control with 9-months feeding. I really like it. Tons of various media in it. I’ll recycle that stuff and have pots all over my deck and repot my figs and anything else I come up with.
I’m tilling nursery rows to plant them. And, I’m going to start growing rootstocks from seed. I have pecan seed now but this fall I’ll put in another MO State Nursery order and get enough in the ground and continue to plant directly to the ground until I’m growing from seed-only.
Dax
How did the roots look?
ooops. Wrong thread…
Really-really-really-good.
Dax
@Barkslip Thanks for sharing these pictures! These seedlings are larger than I would have expected. It’s convinced me to bite the bullet and order some persimmons for grafting.
Yes , recommended
All lots are not nessisarly that size ,
Some years / lots ,…are bigger or smaller.
But you should end up with some of good size to graft.
A persimmon seedling is shaped like a wine bottle at ground level, so if the top is on the small size, you can often graft / bud into that thicker shoulder area with good results.
That’s interesting on the ‘wine bottle’ shape, I think I see what you mean from the above pictures. I fully expect only a few will be of good grafting/budding size upon arrival, but fortunately I only need a few. The rest I’ll have to re-home and/or grow on as backups.
I ordered 100 from Missouri last spring. About 15-20 percent was good for grafting at that time but then I had a lot of good size scion (pencil size and larger). I planted out what was left and most of them have grown quite large and will be good for grafting in this next spring. You can’t beat their price.
Regarding smaller rootstocks, what are the thoughts of the experienced grafters/budders here on using the method in the linked video on persimmon? I’m probably going to do chip budding, but as far as true grafting cuts go, I seem to be having an easier time getting good cambium contact with this method thus far.
Edit: I should note that I’ve only practiced cuts and putting them back together thus far, but have yet to try to get them to take.
It’s difficult to cut persimmon wood using the technique described as it is very hard. But otherwise no reason it won’t work.
I use W/T with an offset cut to handle different thicknesses.
