2020 Grafting Thread


#1

I want to graft my Bosc on to this Taylor’s Gold, and train it into a 2 or 3 tier espalier. I am thinking maybe honeysweet if I go three tier.


Would it be better to cleft graft a two or a three bud scion to the top? The tree was pruned 19 inches above the first two branches, so it seems almost perfect. I am also not sure it the two opposing branches should be shortened.


Grafting Apple trees
#2

Fruit Tree Grafting Class

Learn several approaches to grafting, followed by a demonstration and hands-on practice. You will graft and take home two semi-dwarf fruit trees of your choice (apple, pear, or plum). Root stocks and scionwood provided.

Instructors: John Holzwart, Plant Based Services

Saturday, March 21, 1-3 p.m.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens, Madison, WI

Registration Deadline: March 11

Cost: $38 / $30 member | Course Number: 20-13


#3

Fruit Tree Grafting Class

Graft and take home 2 semi-dwarf trees of your choice (apple or pear). Root stocks and scion wood (fruit tree cuttings) provided. If you want to graft more trees, additional materials will be available for a fee. If you have a sharp knife, please bring it.

Instructor: John Holzwart of Plant Based Services, LLC
noon-3pm Saturday March 14 in Plymouth, WI, High School Food Science & Ag Center
Early fee: $26 until Feb. 28, then $36

Hosted by Plymouth Community Ed & Rec


#4

Some initial success with my first year of grafting. I know there is still ways to go before calling these “successful”, but I’m excited to see the grafts budding out. I just followed @Stan’s instructions to the letter - all clefts with parafilm and splicing tape to hold the scion in place

Plum:

Rootstock - Satsuma plum
Existing graft - Santa Rosa plum

Howard Miracle

Flavor Supreme

Golden Nectar

Peach:

Rootstock - Peachy Keen Peach

Indian Free

Kitt Donnell

Kaweah (not too clear if its budding out or just the stored energy in the scion)


#5

Congrats. I usually remove all flower buds like the ones in your first pic.


#6

Yes, Good point. I removed any rootstock buds/growth in the same stem. I should also remove the flower buds on the scions


#7

Nanaimo Peach on Mustang. T-budded just below the graft of Black Ice. I mostly want to test compatibility and fruit quality of the combo.


#8

I’ve put 28 pluot/plumcot grafts (8 different varieties) on this apricot seedling. A few remaining apricot twigs have blooms on them.


#9

Here is my apple, seedling with bud 9 grafted on last spring and now the seedling scion grafted back on top of the bud 9. Used my new grafting tool image image


#10

Derby42: That’s a heads-up way to limit the growth of your seedling. Hope it plays well for you.

We’ve had quite the cold snap (for Spokane; it wouldn’t merit mention in Kansas) & all my fruit trees are still too sleepy to graft. Black currants are breaking bud; lilac swelling. When I get started grafting, this looks like way more than I had considered last fall. Mostly the increase comes due to my hopes for another orchard & test cultivars I think may please the owners.


#11

Grafting seminar at Olbrich Community Gardens in Madison, WI, this Saturday has been cancelled.


#12

Here are some of my grafts.

Five years ago I grew out seed from Oregon Curl Free peach. The seedling appears quite resistant to peach leaf curl, like its parent, and the peaches are very good. The tree is in a bad location but too big to move, so I grafted two scions from that tree onto Lovell.

D988F394-AB07-434B-BFED-24C7CA7D4613

My main focus these days is to develop a fruit garden with miniature trees, probably spindle, in a fenced in garden. They need to be small, but
i want a diversity. I grafted onto Bud-9 -

Jonagold
Fuji Benj Shogun
Gravenstein
Porter
Winter Banana as interstem, with a local pear I dont know the name
Macoun
SummerRed

And onto Geneva 222
Liberty
Jonared
Pristine
and a couple more

I don’t know if that pear on Winter Banana on Bud-9 will work, so I also grafted it onto a Thiessen Serviceberry and Red Sun Chinese Haw, which is also an experiment.

I also grafted a Winter Banana and a Winter Banana Interstem - Pear scion onto one of my existing trees.

Some of these were tiny, or mismatched stem girth, so who knows?


#13

Anyone have any empire or similar variety?

I have 1 stick of another i thought about using to field graft tomorrow. Prolly a week or so (maybe more) from stuff waking up here. These night temps to cold to consider doing that?

They won’t let me work, i need stuff to do.


#14

Took my four apple bench grafts out of the bag to check on them. Looks like three are definitely showing some life, the other is still not for sure sprouting yet, but looks like the buds are swelling a bit. I did these on 3/13, so about 10 days old.

Guess I’ll give them a few more days before I pot them up.


#15

Alot of my scions are very small this year and are very hard to tape due to them being so flexible. So i decided to do this.

After clamping i just dipped the whole thing in wax. So far so good on all that i have done this way.


#16

Your grafts are looking great! I was wondering what tool did you buy? I have seen a lot on amazon, and I heard the blades aren’t too good. Could you let me know what tool you’re using to graft? Thank you!


#17

Not sure, it was a gift there is no brand name on it ,made in China I’m sure.


#18

I started out doing mostly clefts this year and by the time I got done I was was doing all whip and tongue grafts. I’ve really fallen in love with W/T. I’m thankful to have gotten some great scions from GRIN. All in all a very productive early spring so far!


#19

Love seeing all these successes! I have had pretty good success grafting this year as well. My very first grafts were on an Anjou and Kieffer pear. I grafted 2 each Korean Giant, Moonglow and Harrow Delight. So far all 6 grafts are looking good and the parafilm is busting off of some of them!



#20

I’m about to graft some of my seedling pawpaws. Some of the wood I have is pretty thin so I’ll be grafting above some of the leaves on the growing tips. Do I strip those off when I graft? Wait until the graft pushes to graft? Or just leave them as is since the graft will have to apical dominance anyway? I was thinking of whip and tongue graft, but wold it be better to cut these down to about 6 inches and do either a cleft or a bark graft instead?

Sorry for the out of focus picture. This one has a few lower leaves already out, but some of the shoots I’ll be grafting have a lot. I’ll be grafting about 4 or 5 inches down from the top if I do whip and tongue. I’ve never grafted pawpaw so any help is welcome.