2022 - 2023 Grafting Thread

This year I did 18 apricot grafts and 12 apple grafts. All of the apricot grafts have taken, and 8 of the apple grafts have taken. The 4 apple grafts that have not done anything yet are ones that I used black electrical tape to wrap. I’m wondering if this might be causing an issue. Has anyone had problems with black electrical tape heating the union up too much?

Two of the apples that haven’t woken up are on G890, and I wonder if that rootstock might just be slow growing, but I did two more on G890 without black tape and they have woken up. The other two are interstems, with enterprise grafted to G890 interstem, grafted to M111. The G890 - M111 union appears to be healing as that section has leafed out, but nothing from the enterprise scion. I don’t know if I can remove the black tape without disturbing the union at this point, but it is getting into the high 80s here and very sunny now.

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Black tape works great. Doubt that’s your issue. Check the scion to see if it is still green. If still green might just need more time.

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All three grafts of Madame Boutant pear (thanks again @cdamarjian!) on overhanging branches of my neighbor’s mountain ash are growing nicely. Just pruned back some of the surrounding branches to encourage them to grow even more:

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They look great!
This is mine. Will grow as caged single leader till above deer browse, at 5’

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As for squash, you might want to try some Delicata transplants. When things finally warm up this weekend, they should take off!

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I started another batch of seeds this weekend, so maybe it’s not too late?

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They will probably be fine from seed now. Plants keep growing till frost.
Transplants always just sit there for a week anyway.This is my Delicata from transplant 3 weeks ago.
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id tip them several times toi get more branching and keep them short or they will easily get 5ft in a summer. ididnt to mine and the weight of the branch curled the whole thing towards the ground. i pruned them back to about 15in in April. now they are branching out nicely now. i have bartlett, stacyville, nova, patten and summer crisp on my 6ft. tree. it has no mtn. ash branches on it anymore…

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The neighbors are excited for me to graft over the rest of the tree next year. We’ll have a brainstorming session this fall on what scionwood to get, probably will go for 2-3 cultivars, it’s a very bushy little tree and has good branching for something like this.

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isnt it great to be able to turn a ornamental tree into a fruit producing one. only drawback is mtn ash is a short lived tree. but in another 4-5 years you can graft over a few of the many seedlings that come up and start them to replace when the 1st one goes downhill.

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Ah didn’t realize that. There are some enormous examples planted as street trees around here, I wonder if they live longer in our milder/more Mediterranean climate?

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they arent that short lived. probably 30+ yrs. my mature ones, ringing my property, are starting to decline and die. were planted mid 90’s. plenty of seedlings coming up to replace them.

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Sometimes persimmons take a long time to wake up. I had one that I had given up on get going later in the season.

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I had the scion die on a new bare root persimmon. Two years later the rootstock started growing. That’s some serious stored energy. Can’t give up on persimmons as long as they still scratch green.

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Terrible picture, despite my best efforts. T-budded some Indian Free peach on my Redhaven tree. My grafts have failed so far, but I am determined to get this variety on this tree!

On a related note, I sprung for a package of rubber grafting strips to use in lieu of rubber bands and it’s so much better! Just the right amount of stretch, and ready to go without having to cut them or anything.

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The grafting strips are great. I liked using the ones a member shared with me. I’d highly recommend comparing to the temflex rubber splicing tape from Lowe’s. Cut the roll in thirds to achieve a similar size to the rubber strips.

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Just did another few avocado grafts, this one is Brazos Belle on a Mexicola seedling:

That’s my standard process: a cleft graft, buddy tape first and often a grafting rubber on top. Though I mostly add the grafting rubber if I’m not happy with the cleanness of the cuts (as here).

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Looks like all grafts of pear on Sorbus aucuparia have taken!
I was really behind with stripping off rootstock growth and some grafts look a little stunted because of it. Whatever, life happens and to be honest, the sooner they learn to cope with my degree of neglect the better😂

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Try removing wood off back of T-Bud so vascular phloem of branch in direct contact with lateral meristem phloem on interior of T-Bud.
Without the wood on the T-Bud it is thinner & conforms better to the curve of the branch making a tighter seal.
Tape very tight.

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You gotta be careful that you don’t cut the bud off too thin (don’t get under the bud enough) or you end up grafting a partial bud shield and the partial piece of bud shield is still connected to scion :wink: haha. Kind of funny to me! Probably not to everybody!

In the meantime a chip bud might suffice on Jay’s particular situation :wink: trying to slide a bud in a slit of that branch diameter is pretty rad! Not for the undergrad!

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@Barkslip
Please explain:
From apical meristem micro tissue culture cloning videos & dormant auxiliary node macro tissue culture videos, I got the perception that with pretty much all horticulture species that the meristem cells are all on lateral phloem side & not the vascular phloem side on the wood.
So I find your statement rather confusing.
Please clarify. ( @Osteen ) this type of budding has repeatedly failed on Asimina triloba I feel it is very advantageous to perfect it.
Would facilitate multiple variety Espalier style Asimina triloba grafted trees.