I put 8 varieties on a callery yesterday. Using 6 different options for the grafts. Including a couple bark grafts.
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Hoping to get a bit of grafting advice. I am planning to graft some english walnut scions to some wild black walnut that I have on my property. I think I have watched enough youtube videos to have the technique figured out, but I’m unsure about the timing. As I understand it, I would have the highest chance of success when the rootstock has started leafing out and the daytime temperatures are in the 70s. I’m less sure about the scions…do those need to be collected while the parent tree is dormant and stored until conditions are right, or can walnut scions be collected while they are starting to leaf out as well? I assume the black walnuts and the english walnuts will start to wake up at approximately the same time so that would be convenient, but the mildness of this winter has me worried about timing. This will be my first grafting, and I hear that nut trees are unforgiving.
I don’t personally have experience grafting walnuts, but I just read this section of The Grafter’s Handbook yesterday so it came to mind when I saw your post, describing an unusual grafting method that apparently works with walnuts:
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Thanks for the info! That ebook is cheap enough for an impulse buy.
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It’s kind of outdated in terms of types of tapes and sealants on the market, but it’s got loads of useful illustrations for every type of graft.
Thanks everyone, I only put the Templex over the grafting Union, but I didn’t know you have to remove them later. I thought they are going to push through.
Both of these grafts are pushing nicely, here’s one of them:
Pushing a couple flower buds, but rather than removing them I’ll let them open up so I can collect pollen, and there could be vegetative growth hiding in there too:
A little less advanced but starting to break through the buddy tape:
And I didn’t mention Duke since it wasn’t adding a new variety, but the only one of those I did this winter is the furthest along of the winter grafts so far, showing the typical Duke vigor:
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If you only put the Temflex over the grafting union, and if you don’t build up layer upon layer, like I did one year, it will probably give out and deteriorate from the sun before it girdles the branch. But since scions are our babies, and we are such fussers, we’re going to notice that before it becomes a problem anyway!
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Redfield and Niedz. are displaying some dark red petals…at least 3 days from opening…but as cooler temps move in Tuesday for a spell…that should hold them back from blooming. Many are past taking any scion…although I did take a stick from Maxine pear Sunday and graft it to a multi-graft tree.
There is a couple 30’s in our 10–day forecast…several nights near freezing coming up.
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I think I have something here for Yali pear, exciting, my first successful graft. This is a cleft graft, very clumsy I might say.
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I had some extra ayers and orient pear scions left… after grafting all the callery i had… and grafting a couple pears for my sister.
I went to my neighbors house… he had several wild callery in his field… nice size trees… 2-3 inch diameter at 3 ft.
He did not know what the callery were… i explained and he said yes… graft them.
We found two nice ones about 30 ft apart… did bark grafts to both… one with ayers and the other with orient.
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I did some 5 modified cleft grafts and one bark graft for 6 apple varieties yesterday.
Today I removed a bit of Parafilm tape where I think something might be emerging. I think I might have wrapped the jujube scions to tightly, they may not be able to break though. Yes this is an experiment.
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If this is a parafilm, you don’t need to remove them. I am yet to find a species that won’t push through a parafilm. If you wrapped it tight, it will push through faster as the tape will be less thick in that case.
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Z graft works great with mismatched scionwood.
Even w/t will work ok if you offset the scionwood.
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I ended up being able to match the smallest end of one scion with the largest rootstock well enough to do a cleft, and then did a chip bud for the other one. Couldn’t quite get my head around the Z graft well enough to try it.
Mine is very thick, I didn’t do a good job of stretching it. In fact even with a pair of scissors it was hard.
Here it is, I often break a stem like this from jujube easily so that’s why I removed it.
Tried to graft old rootstock with cherry.
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3/10/2023…
Carmine goumi… modified cleft… to red gem.
Carmine goumi… whip tounge… to sweet scarlet.
Imp kieffer pear… bark graft… to callery.
AU producer plum… whip… to AU Rosa.
TNHunter
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Just finished my first attempts to graft mulberry (Ukrainian varieties Shelli and Galicia from @Marta onto Russian mulberry seedlings from @Seattlefigs). I can see why people have trouble with mulberry grafting, and I think I understand better why using a big stump with bark grafts a la @TNHunter would be a better approach than whip & tongue or budding (what I tried).
Apart from the bleeding problems (mine only did for a few minutes, the rootstocks had barely budded out), the wood seems to want to catch the blade (due to latex, I’m guessing?), and the bark is tough and fibrous, becoming frayed a bit if you have to wiggle things around to get a good fit. The tongues were clogged with bark fibers on W&T.
The buds were a little easier, but I wish I had thicker rootstocks. I think anything under 1 cm diameter might be too small to easily bud onto, I had to kind of force them into the bark flaps a little aggressively because the buds shields were too wide. At least the bark did slip easily!
So, I’m not confident in the success of any of the grafts I did today, but I am also going to try to root the sticks that I removed buds from (left one or two on each). I have no idea if these types of mulberries root easily.
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@swincher … i tried to root some gerardi cuttings last year… and used the same method as i did for my fig cuttings.
5 of 6 fig cuttings were successful.
0 of 4 mulberry cuttings rooted.
I did one month on bottom heat 77 deg with no light exposure… then another month in a sunny window.
Once moved to sunny window the gerardi cuttings budded, grew shoots leaves… even fruit… but a few weeks later started going down hill and died.
After 2 months +… not one of the 4 had a single root on it.
Gerardi seems to be a hard one to root. I have seen people on youtube rooting other varieties and they rooted easily.
Good luck with yours.
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