Both Galicia and Shelli root easily Gardening : Do mulberries root?
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Great!
I need to update that post, as I still have the question marks by these cultivars
It’s interesting that Kaester roots well. Is that the only Morus Nigra that roots easily and grows vigorously? I read somewhere that this species doesn’t root or grows that fast.
My first 4 indoor mulberry grafts.
Varaha (from Peaceful Heritage) on Russian Mulberry (M. Alba Tatarica).
Fingers crossed that at least one will take!
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Still too early to start grafting here in my opinion, but I got my first rootstock order from FEDCO this morning. Healed them in for now, will probably break out the grafting knife in a few weeks time. Can’t wait!
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Man, you’ve got your hands full. Have fun!
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i got a bunch coming in late april also. got lots to plant this spring.
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I am going to re-graft 4 of 5 apple trees that were grafted last year with Ginger Gold. They ended up to be almost killed by fire blight. I’ll keep just one as Ginger gold. The ones I need to re-graft have rootstock about 3/4 inch thick and 3 of them still have a piece of Ginger gold grafted. So I will have to cut the rootstock below current graft so I do not have to deal with fire blight magnet and re-graft. My scions are regular pencil size. So far I only did saddle graft. I guess I will have to go with cleft graft this time. What I do not know, if it possible to do cleft only on one side, not on two sides of the rootstock, as I need one main trunk. Or, should I do double and cut one later(when?)? What is the best method to seal cleft graft?
I generally graft 2 and clip one in the future.
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Definitely do two - the spare scion helps heal the cut-off rootstock.
When I do this I like to wrap my parafilm around the vertical part of the rootstock and then stretch the same piece over the top around the cut stock and then over and between the scions so that I’ve covered as much of the cut as possible. Then a dab of wax or whatever.
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Approximate, what future? The rootstock for 1 year expanded from just over pencil size to 3/4 inch. I am afraid if I leave the second one for about a year(I saw this recommendation online) then it will be the same 3/4 size and I have to heal the same size of wound. The tree will be espaliered. Should I try to keep both and grow branches one side only for each trunk? This way I have two trunks that produce spurs themselves… And insurance in case something happened to trunk. Or they will be to close eventually if grafted 3/4 apart?
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I don’t know about apples, but when I’ve used the same technique for avocados I’ve typically clipped the less vigorous one a few months later, when the first flush is hardening. A year and a half later, you can hardly even tell there was ever a second scion with this one, the other scion has swallowed the wound and caught up with the diameter of the branch it was grafted onto:
My concern would be the “crotch angle” between the two trunks. I don’t know if the space between two scions has the same potential for bark inclusions as naturally formed branches of that same angle, but you might be creating a weak point that could split years later when weighed down with fruit.
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Which apple is that? My Dula Beauty has really large leaves.
Did you know it was reported to be Lee Calhoun’s favorite apple.
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I’ve not taken time to try espaliers.
But, the double cleft graft might be a decent method to get your tree going.
But maybe someone else can help you more.
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Just picked up Flaxen, Cherry Crush, and a couple of others from Skillcult on his website!
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2 Yali grafts took, I think they were cleft grafts, one Korean Giant died, it’s a splice graft.
1 Jujube Massandra has something growing outside of the parafilm. This was a splice graft, but I tied it very tightly, plus I used secateur to cut the wood, but better than using the knife like I did the first time. Uneven surface is not good for cambium layer contact. Needless to say I’m a little bit happy.
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Got done doin two of every variety of apple I had sticks of and had a few rootstocks left over. Tried a few new grafts for kicks. Here’s one.
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Does anyone have experience with graft chimeras forming on your grafts? I’ve been on the lookout for the last couple years of avocado grafting for any candidates, and might have my first one. I’m curious what others think.
This was a really ugly, deeply split cleft graft that I did about a year ago, and I tied it pretty tightly with grafting rubbers. The two sides of the cleft mostly died, only the bottom of the V formed callus. Here’s what it looks like today (with another new graft on the rootstock shoot to the right):
One main bud grew from near the tip of the scion, but before I got around to cutting off the rubber, a second shoot emerged from the top of the binding. I couldn’t tell if it was from above or below the union, so I cut off the rubber band and it looked like it was from the scion, even though it was under the tip of the rootstock flap that had died back and not callused, so I left it. I also noticed that the leaves had an anise scent (like the Teague scion, but unlike the Hass seedling rootstock).
However, since planting the tree in the ground in the greenhouse this winter, I’ve noticed the two branches look different from each other in growth habit, flush timing, leaf color, and leaf shape (you may notice some aphid damage on the last flush from the upper branch):
Here’s a closer photo of the graft union and where the branch emerges (on the right):
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