After several years of spring grafting, I tried chip bud grafting a couple weeks ago. The scion wood from Bob Purvis was excellent. New grafts are:
Apple: Frostbite, Kerr, Roda Mantet, Spicy Sweet
Apricot: Hargrand, Helena, Ilona, Jimmy Thomas, Robada,Zard
Sweet Cherry: Benton, Utah Giant, Whit Gold
Nectarine/Peach: Fantasia, Harrow Diamond, Veteran
Pear: Ubilene
Plum: Black Ice, Luisa, Imperial Epineuse, Kirke’s blue
I’m restraining myself from removing the parafilm to check progress
I had no idea you could graft Medlar onto quince! Any idea about loquat on quince?
I thought that Medlar was usually grafted onto hawthorn, and there’s so much hillside hawthorn at my parents house, and that doesn’t do well with pears, j was going to try Medlar on it, but maybe quince is also an option both to graft onto hawthorn and as a Medlar rootstock!
Medlar is sold commercially with Quince as a dwarfing rootstock. Loquat on Quince is done commercially too, as also a dwarfing rootstock I believe, but it’s supposed to be short lived I think? I think there’s a thread about it on here or the Tropical Fruit Forum.
I didn’t think I have any local Hawthorn, but if you’ve got wild/volunteer trees growing it’s worth experimenting.
I am not sure if I posted my first grafting experience. I took an online grafting class and out of the 8 trees I tried to graft I had 5 take. The ones that did not take one graft fell off somehow and the other two the tape was not tight enough. It seems in order to make it tight I would need two sets of hands to keep the pressure on to make the scion and rootstock stay together correctly. I am sure with more practice it will get easier and my results will be better.
How much growth do you find on the budwood? If leaves only and no discernable stem, leave the wrappings until you have at least a second set of leaves. I have not played with figs, but that has been my experience with apples and plum.
If figs require more growth (or can get by with less) than that, people with direct experience can correct my general observation.
One even has fruit. The other has not a lot of leaves is tall as fuck. Like 4 feet. I want to cut it back but less sure. Let me get a pic and ill ask for speciifc advice
Heres the fella. Won him at a raffle. The ines i bought didnt have tape. Plans to cut him signficantly shorter to get the shape started not sure if yiu can see but theres some parafilm at the bottom
This crazy graft reached the top of the 5 foot tube plus perhaps another 8" before that top broke off in heavy wind. I’d been meaning to put a cage around it so I could remove the tube. I did that for the other grafted at the same time:
One is DMOR9 and the other is Black Prince. Scions from Marta.
Perhaps inspired by this thread I removed the tube from Black Prince, the crazy inverted cleft grafted one. I peeled off the grafting rubber that was still intact and took some pictures of the graft union. I tied it with rubbers to the 3/8" steel rod, put some chicken wire around it for rabbits and welded wire for deer. Used some candy-cane rebar stakes to secure the welded wire.
Those grafts from toad still have excellent cuts, alignment, and wrapping - elements worth trying to perfect, especially when other factors aren’t ideal like the diameter mis-match.
But yes, you can get away with a lot grafting apples compared to some other species.
Well my grafted trees looked great. I put them in the ground about 4 weeks back. Went outside today and the deer ate every leaf off every one. I guess I will be starting over next year. I have some other whips I purchased and those weren’t touched. They also liked my new maple trees.
any tape always cut once the graft is certainly taken. i ignore the parafilm completely as the tree will stretch it out on its own and it’ll fall off.
all of the grafts i did this year put on good growth, last year’s seem ok, and the 3 or 4 year old ones, my first attempted, all are ok, but the toka on my Italian plum got massive! it’s the tallest branches on that damn tree. maybe it’ll fruit next year.