I grafted Toka onto a Krymsk 1 rootstock. I’m probably going to train most of the stone fruit I grafted as ‘V’s/open centers and plant them fairly close in a row, so I left several branches to grow and got three that grew to about 5-6’ (helpfully forming a ‘V’ as desired).
The Dapple Dandy graft grew about 9’ and the trunk is about an inch thick. I’d heard it was vigorous and it’s earned its reputation.
How early is too early to do some grafting? Do I have to wait until it’s so cold that my fingers are in danger of freezing off?
I have some scions that I never worked with this past winter/spring - and I’d like to add them to a few trees. Do they have a chance of taking, if I do it now?
Is this how it’s supposed to look?
I did my first Fall chip buds this year in early sept on peach. I think they look strange- like they’re sticking way out.
This one is firmly attached and looks healthy enough, but I’m wondering if I did something wrong because of the way it sticks out.
When I did the grafts they looked flush and were reasonably well matched in size (I thought)
were the buds wrapped/banded/secured to the tree in any way? if not, or not tightly enough, it looks like the new growth may have just pushed it outwards. i havent been grafting long enough to know if this will be a long term issue or not. good to see you got nice healing happening for you in the fall.
I thought I had it pretty tight on there… but maybe not? On some I used parafilm only and some I used temflex strips.
Yesterday when I cut (what remained) of the wrapping off a few to see how they were looking, it still seemed pretty tight.
When I did them, I watched the @JSacadura videos on chip and inverted t bud and copied as best I could. So I tried to make it look like his (they did not look that nice, but I tried) to give you an idea of how I secured it.
What plant? I have only really grafted apple and pear in spring (late march and then ended up trickling into late may…), peach& pawpaw once it was consistently warm in spring (like may). And peach and pawpaw in autumn.
I think you can’t really graft right now because the plants won’t callus.
I’m going to try it. I don’t have anything to lose. thanks.
Just curious, I had 2 low branches on some apple and pear rootstock so i grafted on both low branches on those rootstock assuming at least one will make it. Like very low like 8" off the ground on new rootstock.
If both took and want to keep both varieties but don’t want super low branches, can you just keep spiraling the branches around each other upwards so that they grow into each other?
Can use either strong tape or grafting rubber bands to hold that year’s spirals together.
I wasn’t sure if this gurdles the tree as they eventually slice into each other or do the cambiums fuse together so therefore its fine to do this?
i’d prefer the branches start then spitting in diff directions around 6ft height (so ill stop spiraling the branches around that height) vs very low ‘Backyard Orchard Culture’ which i tried a few years ago and didn’t like.
Just thought maybe I could try that instead of waiting a couple years to graft when gets larger.
@armyofda12mnkeys
I’d train one to go south and west in two major branches, and the other into north and east, or something like that making a delayed open center type of shape with them. If you want to see what I mean you can look at SkillCult’s perfect system, the last video is for younger trees:
Photos are a couple months old I forgot to share them, but I think these M.111 apple grafts came out well. One Ashmead’s Kernel and the other is NY 414-1.
I’d take some photos of my others (or at least more current) but they are all buried in snow at the moment.
So, i took your advice, i pruned this back a lot, and staked it, and it put on a lot of growth last year. This year, it looks good.
I’ve protected all the fruiting trees, but in the past, they’ve generally not bothered crab apples, which i assume are more bitter. But it was a cold winter, with a lot of snow, and i guess they were hungrier than usual.
Is there any hope for this tree? Should i take some of last year’s growth and try to graft it into something else? Is that even possible this late in the season? Any advice?
Wishing I’d put up a little more fencing last fall…
Maybe consider inarching? I believe @joleneakamama used to fix a similar case done by goats. I haven’t tried it personally, but hopefully they’re willing to reiterate.
For reference, here’s I guess the “legacy” of that graft.
https://growingfruit.org/t/finally-done-grafting/5231?u=cavocado
https://growingfruit.org/t/finally-done-grafting/5231/13?u=cavocado
https://growingfruit.org/t/finally-done-grafting/5231/34?u=cavocado
https://growingfruit.org/t/finally-done-grafting/5231/64?u=cavocado
I agree that inarching could help. I’ve only tried it once (last week), so I can’t speak of success rates yet, but I say it’s worth a try if you have any extra rootstock or seedlings around.
What would i be trying to do? Planting a seedling nearby and grafting that into the base?
I’d try wait for someone for knowledgeable than I to get back before you do anything too permanent, but yes, that sounds like the right idea. Plant something nearby and graft it back into the tree above the girdled area if you can… Feels like a nice insurance policy regardless of whatever else you do.
Additionally, it looks like that thing is trying to sucker like crazy, so it definitely has energy you should be able to use. If you can get a few suckers tall enough, those look like they could maybe work for grafting back into the tree further up? I guess a simpler/quicker version of that would be if you got some longer sticks and “bridged” the girdle like in the other post…. Either from bark grafting into the bottom of the girdle where the bark is still good and then above it, or perhaps into that other large trunk you cut off right there. Just tied down somewhat so it lies next to your main trunk better to cover the wound faster when it heals.
That’s my 2 cents… hopefully it helps a little.
Right. From what I’ve read, you want to plant it as close as possible. It’s more difficult (in my opinion) than other types of grafts to get good cambium contact, but I figure it is worth a try.
My experience with pear is they don’t don’t any higher than the basal break
I ve done double grafts with 80% success, Apple interstems
There’s plenty of hope, I see you have at least some of the same leaves down below as up above, and with how bad it is, I probably would cut it all the way down to below the worst damage and let it grow back, but you want to make sure the grafted variety grows back, so you might need to pluck any sprouts that are coming from below the graft line, and it’s possible not all of those stems growing up are the grafted variety either….or is it a seedling tree?
but there are other options as they mentioned here, I tried inarching once, with somewhat encouraging results, but I still cut that probably wild apple tree off entirely and grafted winter banana apple onto a suckers, that shot up more than 4 feet in the first season, and up to 8 feet the next.
what time and temperature is the best to do Jujube grafting?
