@Hillbillyhort @jerry @JohnnyRoger @aiden… thanks to you all for the burr knot/m-111 advice. I think you guys really saved me from a big mistake there. Sounds like a low graft union is definitely in order.
Unfortunately, I’ve already grafted all of my dormant wood elsewhere (with the exception of some golden russet wood, which seems to be universally thought to have a less than ideal growth habit, and I would assume would be a bad choice for my trunk/scaffolds) which leaves me thinking that I could either try budding another variety that I already have (my first attempt at budding), or let my whip develop a nice root system this year and graft it over next spring. I’m thinking that the latter is the way to go… it may set me back a bit, but then I can select a good vigorous variety as the trunk/framework of the tree. Maybe a triploid like Gravenstein (thanks @CA_Poppy and @jerry).
I was reviewing this link from @scottfsmith on the vigor of various varieties… very helpful. Estimated Tree Vigor For Apple Varieties from HOS
It looks like the most vigorous variety that I’ve got on hand is Wickson Crab, so that would probably be the one to use if I was going to try to place a bud down low. Any input on whether doing that, and then forcing the bud after it heals, saves me much time (meaning total time to get to a good framework for grafting) vs just grafting it over next spring?