I recently received a completely green piece of scionwood of a rare and desirable tree. All the buds had sprouted, so no dormant buds.
The entire scionwood was wrapped top to bottom in buddy tape so it was in good shape when I received it.
The person who sent it to me was sure that this will take very well. I’m only used to grafting either dormant scions or scions that have dormant buds in them.
Scouring youtube, it appears that this sort of grafting is often done with cashews, mango and several other tropicals. They cover the graft with a poly bag to reduce transpiration.
Has anyone here grafted such scionwood? What is your advice for best results?
Last year I grafted pear and peach in August. I used actively growing wood and grafted to actively growing tree. It worked out fine. I think you have to make sure the temps aren’t too high.
This year I tried something I haven’t done before. I’m working on a plum espalier on a peach seedling and I have 7 arms that took and growing right now. 8th arm was just a sprout this spring and I didn’t graft to it. Then It started to grow and wouldn’t stop growing. I felt like it’s drawing all the energy from newly grafted arms. So I had two options: either trim it off or graft to it. It’s current year’s wood, still green. But I decided to graft to it. It’s only been 4-5 days. No movement yet. We’ll see if it takes.
I don’t know anyone who grafts actively growing peach scionwood successfully. Most do budding at that stage. You are the first that I’ve heard. Great job,
I want to do some blueberry grafting, but blueberries don’t go dormant here in California. They maybe slow down a little, lose a few leaves, but they never actually fall asleep. This sounds like a good first recipe for my blueberry grafts
Green grafting certainly works. Tropical fruits never go dormant and the scionwood can certainly not be stored in a refrigerator.
However I wonder if grafting can happen with buds that are already sprouting.
I have grafted actively growing plum scions in August with mixed results. I stripped all the leaves off first. Some failed, some succeeded, and some healed but went dormant until the following spring.
They were all grafted within a few minutes of being cut.
I have grafted - 4-flap ‘banana’ style - hickory onto pecan in early to mid-July with success. Have only done a couple, but they took. Grafts were performed within 24 hrs of the scions being cut. Union and scion wrapped with Parafilm-M, union then wrapped with a rubber band
I have heard of people doing what you did. I would not be surprised for plums, apples and/or pears. Peaches, to me, is another animal. Grafting dormant peach scion in the spring is a hit or miss to me.
My understanding of @Susu’s statement is that she took an active growing piece of peach wood and grafted it to actively growing peach tree and that it has worked for her. And that It was not chip budding or T budding.
That’s right. I suck ar chip budding even with dormant wood. I had horrible result on pear this year because I chip budded.
What I did last summer with peach wood was cleft grafting. I stripped the scion of all the leaves and wrap it in parafilm and then cleft graft to the actively growing tree. It needs mild summer weather I think. Like low 80’s. If not shading it might be helpful,
I did this about a week ago with my apple tree. Cut a piece of Williams pride from the tree next to it and grafted to yellow transparent. As you can see through the parafilm, the wood inside is still green. Not sure if it will take but so far looking good.
I had good luck last july/aug with apples cleft grafting new growth. I was not using the tender green growth but rather the base of new shoots that was starting to harden up a bit. It was 90+ degrees every day and most grafts took. I was surprized it worked.
Hello, I summer graft all the time with the new growth tips. I do not take all the leaves off, but leave about 1/2" of one leaf at the end. If you take all the leaves off the scion appears to go dormant, if you leave some leaf on it will sprout out and grow this season. I cover the whole scion with parafilm to retain moisture. This is the only way I have found to graft peaches as it is cool here (Vermont) and peaches need 80+ degrees to take, so you wait until the weather report says it will be hot and graft.
I tried my hand at green grafting today. I had 3 G-11 rootstocks that I was going to try to bud graft in July. You guys in this thread made me think I could try it now. I am trying to propagate a tree that grows at my wife’s work. It might be a Winesap. How much gap should I leave at the bottom of the bags? I cleft grafted them. Grafting%20May%2026%20%231|690x388
Be careful with baggies, they can fry plants in warmer weather. I had some apples sprouting from seed and I had a baggie to label them which covered one seedling by mistake … it got fried in the sun.
I have only done green grafting on grapes, using a similar method as @PlumHill described above. I had something like 50-50 results on the grapes. I tried some plums where I removed all the leaves and those failed.
Maybe I will consider trying it on some other things… I had two large stocks on which the top works failed this spring and I was thinking I would have to wait til next year but maybe green grafting would work.
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