Basic Tips For New Grafters #2: Different Grafts (Discussion Needed)

The Konrad Bark or Scott’s Modified Konrad Bark look handy for grafting on stock say 1/2 inch diameter and up. Eager to see if this replaces clefts on small stock which bedevil me getting cambiums to cross, even with a “cant.” When I first started grafting years ago whatever manual I followed called for the “scoop out” or “shoulder” at the top of the bark graft scion cut. Then the shoulder appeared to fall out of favor or something.

Ever since trying that method it has been my go to. Sometimes on bigger stock I’ll use a cleft, but the simple whip with both cuts made using bypass pruners is my first choice.

I only use the Konrad method on larger stocks or stocks where the scion/stock mistmatch is big. If they are not too far off a splice will be faster, and they are less prone to breakage in the first year. One thing I particularly like about Konrad’s graft is you can use it to graft a very small scion to a just-planted rootstock. Before I switched to that approach I would use a splice where it was hard to get much wood to match on. Those splices still worked pretty well, but the Konrad approach is almost a certainty on apples/pears.

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One reason is that nut trees (which you don’t mess with I realize) are less likely to be successful doing anything except bark grafts and banana grafts. I mean don’t get me wrong I use whip and tongue on smaller caliper rootstocks. Or, I use my grafting tool that cuts a V in the rootstock and a V on the scion.

So other than that, it’s scion and rootstock size being the reason we mess around with grafts that take longer.

If I were going to do splice grafts (whip grafts) I would make a tongue cut. I know why folks don’t and the reason is they don’t want to chance injuring their self.

I’ve tried doing splice grafts and without the tongue I feel the contact areas might/do shift while wrapping it tight.

Of course the more contact of cortex/cambium that can be achieved the better and the more new growth you will get from the same rootstock if you were to perform various grafting methods. There’s more healing power with the finished product.

Dax

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I have used this products to prevent cuts in the hand that is holding the scionwood that is being cut.

Inf-way EN388 2 Pairs of Stainless Steel Wire Mesh Cut Resistant Mechanic Gloves Level 5 Protection Cut-proof Chain Saw Band Safty Working Kitchen Butcher Gloves
by Inf-way

Link: http://a.co/4aqFRnm

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During dormant season or when the barks aren’t slipping, I use z-grafting with very good success.

Successful with avocados, citruses, cherries, almost all dormant wood. Excellent for mismatch diameter even when scionwood is bigger than the stock.

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When it comes to persimmon grafting, nothing beats bark grafting. Timing is important, and bark grafting of persimmon is done when the first green leaves starts to show on the stock. I can even get fruits the year they were grafted with no effect on the growth of the grafted branch.

Here’s a very old tutorial that maybe some of you have already seen in some forums.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154011161611804.1073742033.762176803&type=1&l=fe93335158

Bark grafted persimmons

Bark grafted peaches/Nectarines/Apricots on one tree

Bark grafted figs in one season:


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Joe,

How many varieties are there in that multigrafted persimmon tree?

Tony

It used to have 53 different kinds of persimmons, all have fruits. I heavily staked it all around. One day, there was a very strong almost tornado like wind that lifted up the fruit laden persimmon branches and the stakes fell off, and the tree broke at the trunk. Couldn’t save any of my collection as it was summer time. I’m slowly rebuilding another persimmon tree again but then it is harder to collect cultivars this time. Many of my old friends who are persimmon collectors have gone to heaven already.

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That must be awful to see all your hard work gone in second. Well, good luck on your next persimmon project.

Tony

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@JoeReal Nice stuff cowboy. I love bark grafts! I see you do too! You just can’t get growth doing other styles well there are exceptions such as banana grafts and budding on good caliper stuff.

I’ve been amassing a collection of persimmons but not a lot. Jerry Lehman has been my scionwood go to source. This year being the second year. I had the opportunity to visit Jerry last fall and taste a lot of stuff. I decided which one I really like. Same with my buddy that went along. We’re both ‘full-time’ grafting ‘nuts’!

We set bark grafts at another friend’s place as well as at his lake property which is a jungle of stuff.

I’ll try to help you regain some things. I’m sending a message now.

Dax

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The most vigorous grafts for me are unquestionably side grafts. I think the reason could be that the scion makes a lot of cambium contact to a larger thicker part of the tree that probably has more energy flowing through it. And the wound is minimal in comparison to a bark graft. I’ve not had nearly as much success with bark grafts. They seem simple and easy but I’ve had several take but not thrive and later follow by dieback of the stump. With a side graft you are adding a scaffold anywhere on the trunk that you want without making a major pruning cut so very little trauma. The only downside is that they sometime form narrow angles. But strength hasn’t been a problem for me. Some of my side grafts are hard to distinguish from actually scaffolds.

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I’m not sure I know just how to do a side graft, but I recall you talking about it before. Do you have a favorite description, or maybe a link or video?

Thanks.

Here is a thread I shared a while back. Watch the video in the first post. Around the 3:00 mark in the video he demonstrates a side graft.

That’s an excellent thread- thanks for linking it.

Has anyone experienced their grafts breaking dormancy while the rest of the tree is still dormant?

I like it because it’s self seating: meaning if I bang it, bump it, nudge it, or are otherwise misaligned, it just grows crooked or I only have to shove it down and it doesn’t fail. I also, as others have said, use it for top working trunks.

I have had good enough luck with apples with cleft grafts to not bother with anything else. Splice is probably equally easy but I honestly find wrapping field grafts kind of a hassle so I think cleft is easier to hold and wrap at the same time.

One reason splice is easy for me is that I usually have a wide range of diameters with scion wood I use. when you have a close match, any danger of pulling off line while taping is minimized. However, I’ve had lousy success with persimmons and probably need to use bark grafts or something else for more difficult species than pomes and prunus (I also do OK with paw paws and mulberries are no problem). The only success I’ve had with persimmons have been on root suckers, once on one that had grown that spring and grafted in June.

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No problem. Did you watch the other video I posted near the end of the thread where a guy demonstrates a really interesting modified side graft with 2 tongues? That one is very intriguing and looks super secure. I am going to try that the next time I need to cleft graft

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