So you walk into Fruit Grower Supply, and it’s like those movies where a stranger walks into the bar, and the record screeches, and everybody stops what they’re doing and gives you the side-eye? 
4 Likes
Those blades are relatively inexpensive. I think I got 100 of them for under $25 at our local larger hardware store. The blades do hold up fairly well, couldnt give you a exact number but I think at least 3-4 dozen cuts is per blade is typical.
1 Like
Actually, the piano player stops and the guy at the end of the bar sets his whiskey down.
3 Likes
I use the same blade all season and buff it to mirror sharpness on a leather wheel loaded with buffing compound on a slow-speed sharpener. You can do the same with progressive wet/dry sandpapers and a sharpening guide. The difference between factory sharp and mirror sharp really makes a difference. I do the same on my grafting utility knife blade I use for cleaning up cuts.
I’ll be putting a set of plans out after grafting season, too busy right now.
5 Likes
bump!
Hey, Kevin, that’s an amazing tool. Is there still a chance we could take a closer look at its design?
Thanks!
39th, I’m glad you mentioned that a whip and tongue graft is superior to grafts made with the tool and will have a higher take rate. I tried grafting for the first time last spring using the tool, and only one of 22 grafts took. I also didn’t seal the tips with wax, just imitating what I saw on a video where the guy just wrapped the plastic ribbon around the graft. This spring I plan to try with scions from my own trees plus a few new ones from GRIN not using the tool.
With a little knife practice, you will be able to join larger area of cambium then the cuts made with the tool. I would suggest a utility knife with a new blade that has been cleaned to remove oils. Grafting Knives are great but, they must be sharpened which is another skill. I would order a roll of parafilm and be sure to seal the ends this time. Cheap masking tape will also work in a pinch. I wish you much grafting success!
3 Likes
@Barkslip what was the issue caused by the “Walmart shavings”? I have never bench grafted and am using mostly shavings to hold the grafted rootstocks in while they callous over, and possibly for a few weeks after that until it’s warm enough outside to plant them. I’m in zone 5B in NH.
those thin and flat almost-shaving & size-pieces (liked shaved almonds) stuck to each other and water was more like glue. not good!
I’m not sure about new grafts but I planted budding plums, Burbank Santa Rosa Ozark premier from down South and they froze hard a week or two later in April 17F and they all lived.
Most apples leaf out before the frost is over, flowers are damaged, but generally not the leaves.
I’m not sure if grafts are more sensitive or if freezing the sap in the union could break it off.
1 Like
So you don’t ever wait for your rootstocks to start pushing buds, but just graft them when you are ready and then try to manage the temperatures that the bench graft is exposed to for a period of callousing?
Pome fruit is very forgiving as far timing of grafting. I’m sure you would have good success rate bench grafting or field grafting as they start pushing buds. Keeping the rootstock fully dormant is just convenient because I have so many grafts to make. Callousing is always better at higher temps / outside where the sun hits them. I do not recommend keeping benchgrafts cool indoors other than to buy a few days before buds open. There is little to no callousing at low temperatures and prolonged cold storage will have a lower success rate.
2 Likes
What counts as cold? Under 40F?
When would you start grafting outdoors? April? In new York we still expect light snow even though it was 70 one day this week.
I don’t know where New Fork is, but in Northern Illinois I graft right around April 1st, rain or shine.
1 Like
When you see well established apple / pear trees reach Silver tip / swollen bud, It’s time to start planting benchgrafts or make Field Grafts. A frost or freeze will not harm the graft.
3 Likes
Our weather has been terrible and I’ve been bored, so I’ve been bench grafting plums in a 60 degree garage and it has been working great.
Hi All,
Grafted about 30 apples yesterday. Currently in the fridge in a garbage bag, and am going to move them to the garage, currently in the 50’s.
I had a few scion that was already silver bud, green side, or even starting to leaf… so they may or may not make it. What should I do with them grafts that are breaking bud or even starting to leaf out during the heeling in period?
I assume I should pull any leaves if there are additional viable buds.
I’m not sure what the heeling in period is your referring to. I do that prior to grafting, but then plant them in pots or set them out. Im not sure why you would want to pull off the leaves.
Steven Edholm suggests that for a scion that is starting to leaf before grafting, using a longer section of the scion (more resources) can be more beneficial, but removal of leaves to prevent desiccation prior to the graft callousing, after which the rootstock can provide the scion moisture, etc. What I’ve heard is that they should be stored in a dark cool (40’s or 50’s F) environment until the callous is formed and they are breaking bud. I believe the point there is to slow the exit from dormancy so as to conserve resources.