Is anyone successfully using beneficial nematodes (Steinernema feltiae and/or Steinernema carpocapsae) to control apple codling moth in back yard or small orchard settings? If so, please tell us how and when you prefer to apply them, and share any tips or gotchas that you’ve learned.
Not aware that nematodes are ever used that way, but I’d love the learn if they are.
I use spinosad for CM and it can work very well, but it’s very sensitive to timing.
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As far as I know, codling moths don’t pupate underground. So beneficial nematodes won’t help with them. There is some evidence for nematodes working for plum curculio and maybe japanese beetles. @scottfsmith has used nematodes, I think, for curcs.
I believe the alternative control for codling moth is to wrap trees in corrugated cardboard and remove it at the end of the season. Then burn the CM’s at the stake like the demons they are. OKSIR Cardboard Banding for Orchards
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This notion isn’t my personal brainstorm; both BioLogic and Arbico label their nematode products for CM control. The application instructions that I’ve seen (like this example at Planet Natural) suggest that one spray the trunk and the ground up to the drip line, the latter apparently due to the assumption that there’s sufficient debris under the tree in the form of small branches, wood chips, etc. to shelter cocoons. That would likely be accurate in my orchard.
What I don’t know is if this is actually effective in practice. It would be a fine thing if it were, perhaps in combination with other controls, as it’s less timing-sensitive than most.
I’ve been using the nematodes for a few years, but I have to say I haven’t seen a lot in the way of good results so far. I use both of those kinds. I am mainly trying to control PC but they are also supposed to work on moths. When I was at Cidercon a few weeks ago the grower from Eves ciders said she used nematodes for moth control, and she said it in a positive way. Note I didn’t spray the trunks as I was mainly after PC and the stuff is expensive.
You need to time the sprays right so they are there and waiting when the nasty guys start to pupate. Ideally you want to put them down in a rain so they can move to a safe wet spot before they dry out… they are small so movement is slow even by worm standards.
I’m going to keep trying for several more years, Cornell seems to have gotten some good results with them.
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I used beneficial nematodes last year. I didn’t see any differences.
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Thanks for that input. I’m going to give it a try this year, but I’ll keep my expectations firmly in check.
I have been interested in trying the nematodes BUT have held off waiting to see peoples results here. The product is very expensive for as many trees as I have planted. I cannot see wasting this money if the results are not worth the effort.
I know this is an old thread, but wanted to add to it. What I’ve just read is that you want to spray the bark in addition to the ground and especially in the crooks of branches. And to spray in Sept/Oct and when the bark will be wet for at least 24 hours during and after spraying. I would think temperature would be important also, but haven’t gotten to reading that yet.
When I have more time I’m going to ask an insectory I’ve dealt with in the past for more info. I think the nematodes would have to have just the right climate and secondary food sources in order to naturalize and work and suspect they would mitigate rather than absolutely control.
If anyone has any more info on them would love to hear it.
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Any luck on the PC control?, and if so where did you obtain the nematodes from?
They know what they’re doing and are super nice people.
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Nice! Part way through reading it. The insectory I ordered from in the past is Rincon-Vitova in California. The bug people there are super nice and got really chatty about their bugs. They do sell smaller amounts, although the overnight shipping is expensive. They love what they do and didn’t mind talking about the bugs needs, behaviors and habitats. I ordered several species of predator mites, including one native to California. They suggested all sorts of things like putting out tiny water bowls (I used bottle caps) for them until they got situated.
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I tried them for 2-3 years and didn’t notice much difference so I stopped. I got most of them from Arbico Organics.
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Thats a shame. At least surround does a good job at slowing them down.