I go with parafilm over the scion and graft union and Temflex friction tape overtop on the graft union only. If the union seems weak, I add a rubber band under the parafilm. That way I don’t have to pull as hard on the Temflex and displace the graft. The Temflex also prevents rubber band breakdown. It does have to be opened with a slice down the side after 8 weeks or so.
The tape is about $3.50 at Lowe’s.
Yoda it has been my experience that persimmon stumps that large don’t take grafts well. On ones that large I have always just cut the stump off and let it sucker out and save the ones I want and graft to those the next spring. I have always had good luck that way.
Thanks for that insight, Brett. Did you ever try to go a step farther, and separate the satellite suckers from the mother ship the following year?
No never went any farther.
Does the tanglefoot stuff degrade okay, or is there concern with it sticking around and causing problems/getting trapped in crotches and creating weak spots?
It works fine, but my techniques have improved over the years. As the climate has got warmer, i changed my method somewhat because the wax started melting earlier
Tanglefoot is hard to beat, but it’s a mess. Try plastilina.
Thank you, Mr Clark.
I’ve not heard of plastilina before. Do you find it does as well or better than wax?
I just use plain parafilm taped over the exposed portion of the host sight.
That’s what I usually do now as well. I used to coat over the top with petroleum based pruning sealer. I did come to the conclusion that on some bark grafts the sealer would “ooze” down between cambiums and prevent callousing, however. I don’t want to mess around with trying to keep grafting wax warm when I’m field grafting.
Exactly what i did went over it with parafilm but then used the clay over the parafilm cleft grafts. It worked great.
For $15 I think I’ll pick up a block and give it a try. Thanks
This tree coat product has worked well for me. It is quite thick and easy to apply… has a brush attached to the lid.
I’ve used similar products with similar results, however I’ve had some failures and the only reason I can come up with is that sealant prevented cambium contact. That could be due to less than perfect cuts on my part as well I suppose. I skipped the sealant for the most part last year and my success rate was about the same. I believe I’m done with sealant, but I’m interested in trying the clay just for kicks.
I’ve used Johnny wax in the past but it might have issues. Roofing tar is what I was first taught to use and I never had problems with it outside of mess. One of our members here saves that red wax off of cheese balls, sorry I don’t remember just who. I think some people like Elmer’s glue or latex paint. I think a spray on product would be nice, if anybody could recommend one.
I’m wondering if folks in milder climates need it?
I have a few jar of candle, I’m debating into testing them as wax sealer. Will it work?
I picked some of this up yesterday. I was going to with the clay, but saw it at a place I stopped at for seeds.
Parafilm is the best, it is easy to use, can pull everything tight, and is destroyed in a year or so of sun. I’ve used other things like tape, rubber bands, plastic, ets… they have to be removed or girdle the tree or if your lucky they just become trash blowing around. Parafilm does seem to get brittle with age and you need to buy fresh every year or so. I don’t like putting the parafilm over the buds though (they will poke through but sometimes they get “funny looking” and kind of weaker).
When bench grafting I also use wax, usually 50/50 beeswax and paraffin. Paraffin is a bit too brittle alone (will crack off). Bees wax is fine alone but is a bit sticky. Any wax (toilet, candle, etc.) will work pretty well though. I pretty much coat the entire scion and graft (right over the parafilm), bud will push through wax.
When field grafting I will cut the scions to a couple buds, dip the top in wax to seal, drop the pieces in a cup of water, then go outside and and graft (using parafilm). If the rootstocks haven’t leafed out yet then spray can treekote (asphalt) works to cover the scion. I don’t like the spray when there are leaves because it gets all over.
Latex paint works but not as well.
