Chenago Strawberry

I thought I would share my posting over at Adam’s Apple on Chenago Strawberry since this one gets little play. If you go over there you might want to glance at my reviews of Dayton, Mother also, two other apples that seem to get little attention.

the fluffy bunnyAugust 18, 2021 at 12:34 PM

As others commented I sincerely doubt you tasted a Chenago Strawberry based on your commentary and the pictures, it really is a very distinct fruit with a rather striking appearance.

Straight up, this is a connoisseurs fruit and is grower unfriendly. It is very hard to catch at its zenith and gives you a couple of false starts. For one, about 6 weeks before it is ripe it gives off a very odorous strawberry scent, drawing ever critter in the area to sample a bite, which ultimately works to your advantage for after sampling these wholly unripe specimens they will tend to leave the survivors alone. The smell however is heavenly and gives you hope. At best Chenago Strawberry has a firm, frothy texture, with a genuine whiff of strawberry scent and a slightly sprightly apple and diluted strawberry taste. The apple taste is reminiscent of a less sharp Bramley’s Seedling with a hint of Jonathan thrown in with some strawberry thrown in for good measure.

Its deficiencies for the grower are many. At its best it is firm and frothy, not ever crisp. It turns to mush quickly, it bruises if you look at it too hard, it drops like crazy and at least ½ the fruit will end up on the ground and yet paradoxically it will hang on the tree when ripe until it rots away. On the plus side it seems to self-thin and is vigorous as well as exhibiting levels of disease resistance. It is however an animal magnet when vastly underripe. Moreover it ripens over several weeks necessitating constant watching. As my old friend Ed Fackler would say, some antique apples deserve to be extinct, and if I was a grower that would be my attitude toward this one.

However for the connoisseur home grower this is an intriguing apple and it has its merits. For one it ripens over several weeks, which works well with this apple as it simply won’t keep. One tip I will pass on is this apple has an interesting characteristic. If it is past its prime, simply toss it into the freezer for a bit and it quickly turns into a natural and absolutely natural apple sorbet. Eat is as such on a hot late summer day and your opinion on this one will change. That mushy disposition quickly becomes as asset with the assistance of a freezer.

Next, it Is vigorous, and disease resistant. It is a show case quality fruit and make a stunning yard accent when espaliered. Speaking of which the only way I recommend growing this one is as an espalier. This tree excels in that form and most of its deficiencies are easily cured by placing it in a prominent location in your yard where you pass by it on a daily basis and can easily catch each fruit at its peak. As I said it makes a lovely specimen in espalier form and here it disease resistance pays off. I have never noted a biennial tendency in this apple. It is a very reliable cropper.

As I said it is a connoisseur fruit, with its own unique taste, smell, and texture. Part of being a connoisseur is not brining a preconceived notion of what a fruit it suppose to be like and imbibe in the fruit based on its own merits. Most people have a very narrow range of what they like in apples and for those with a preconceived idea of what an apple should be this is likely to be a poor choice.

the fluffy bunny

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I actually managed to buy a Chenango Strawberry fruit at a local market, which was quite surprising. I think they picked them a bit early to get them to survive the trip, but it still was a fascinating, delicious apple.

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Just had my first taste of one from a friends abandoned heirloom orchard. It was amazing how good it was. Definitely my favorite apple of all that we discovered. Brought some home to my wife and she too was impressed. For such an old tree, the apple was surprisingly clean and scab free.

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Just knowing the fact the apple does not last long is a deal breaker for me, unless I just graft only a branch on one of my trees.

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mine died 25 years ago before it fruited

Tastes great when ripe. Narrow window of opportunity. Gets mealy quickly.
Here is some history about it’s origin/propagation
Chenango Strawberry Apple-history

I might have this tree in my orchard. I took a cutting from a tree on a relatives farm that I was told was “Strawberry Chenango”. I grafted it onto an M7 stock and it has done well, other than some meddling from hungry deer. Last fall, I had my doubts because the apples on the original tree were small and green. I was up there again recently for a family reunion and saw a few apples that looked just like pictures I’ve seen of SC. Apparently my great uncle grafted the tree, but it was onto an existing tree. I cut scionwood from several places on the tree, so no idea if I’ll get little green crabs or Chenango Strawberry. May try to head down again and get enough wood to do a bud graft since it’s not in great shape.

My 3 Chenango Strawberry on G.222 grafted in 2018 were all hit with fire blight this summer. I had to cut them back from 6 foot to about 2 foot. At least they’re still growing above the graft.

My standard advice for those plagued by fireblight is to graft onto M27 or P22 . Both are susceptible to fireblight with P22 having more resistance between the two

I would also suggest growing as a oblique cordon. The reason is, if you can get the tree to survive until the from (in this case a oblique cordon) is complete it is hard for a fireblight infection to take hold.

Mostly this is due to the fact that once it fruits unless you fertilize and water profusely it is hard to get M27 or P22 to push new growth. They just sort of sit there in stasis and require very little maintenance. Essentially the rootstock is too small to push growth when also fruiting, and the bias of trees is they will normally take reproduction (fruiting) over growth every time. Without succulent new growth fireblight is less likely to gain an entry point. Moreover the actual form (oblique cordon) promotes good air circulation which also deters firelbight.

Be warned, that you should not let M27 or P22 fruit until the full form is completed as it will runt out and is hard to get going again unless you do a lot of magic.

Cheers,

the fluffy one

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The 2nd sentence, I think you meant to say both are not susceptible to fire blight.

Both M27 and P22 are susceptible to fireblight, M27 is very susceptible and P22 is moderately susceptible.

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Maybe, I read your first sentence incorrectly. If they are susceptible, why would you advice people to graft on to those rootstocks?

Read the post again, I explain the logic.

As a related FYI the only truly extreme dwarfing firelight resistant rootstock is G65. However as with most Cornell rootstocks you need very clean scion wood or you are borrowing a heap of latent trouble. Most of us are home growers who exchange scions freely with gosh knows what latent viruses. Hence why I did not suggest G65.

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