What height would you like it to grow to? @39thparallel often puts them on mm111 and they stay pretty well managed even in great soil.
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@clarkinks, I don’t need the tree to get very tall. My goal in trimming would be to keep the majority of the fruit at 8 feet in height and below. I am focused on establishing my Clark’s on something that will last and last so that I may continue to share the wealth with others.
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Mm111 creates a tree that normally lives around 25-40 years. Crabapple scion normally live 30-70 years. I think mm111 would be a good choice. Check out this link How Long Do Apple Trees Live? 8 Influencing Factors - Rennie Orchards. If you want true long lived seedlings here is a nursery that has them FRUIT TREE SEEDLINGS | Willamette Nurseries rootstock clonal seedling fruit tree ornamental seedlings eg. Domestic Apple | Willamette Nurseries rootstock clonal seedling fruit tree ornamental seedlings
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Looks just like one I got this spring. 5 little crabs filling out.
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A good fresh eater is an apple that gets grainy in storage!
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What about Antonovka? The crab apple tree is pretty small itself, why not give it a full size long living rootstock?
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I do not have a Clark’s crab, but it’s on my wishlist.
But I believe what you want for a large tree is Antonovka rootstock.
Graft onto the rootstock while it’s small enough to do a whip and tongue and let it grow in place taproot and all, then you’re pretty much guaranteed it won’t runt the tree.
Antonovka is also the most draught resistant which I’d expect you need there.
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@Trav, Malus antonovka is one of the apple rootstock varieties that is available from Willamette via their first link that @clarkinks offered up. Yes, from time to time we do get prolonged dry spells here in Georgia. It looks like I’ll have a little while to decide between the antonovka and M111. It seems that no one has stock available in order to ship in September, which is when we plant in-ground trees here.
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P.18 might be a good possibility if you can get it - pretty close to standard size. Ive seen Cummins selling it some years.
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Antonovka is a great rootstock- great form, vigor, tough. Makes good apples too if allowed to grow on its own. Comes true from seed, more or less- a rarity for apples.
I’ve taken a different tact myself, spreading my my pomace for several years after making cider and allowing volunteer seedlings to grow up in what was depleted marginal hayfield/meadow. Seedlings of all kinds can exhibit good vigor and longevity, I believe, when allowed to grow in place from seed- i.e not transplanted. Of course there are lots of compromises inherent, like having less control over tree placement/spacing. I had been using interstems (M26 and a dwarf crab I discovered on a roadside) to foster precocity, and it indeed works. Lately I’ve just been grafting right onto the seedlings though as they seem pretty precocious already. Many seem to start bearing at about 1” caliper. A couple have made interesting apples too- one is a nice russet. I’ve never found a russet I didn’t like. They always seem to be more or less of a type, and it’s a good one!
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@Lucky_P sent me some scionwood this spring and mentioned how M26 has performed so much better for him than M111. I was surprised, since I thought M111 is/was pretty tough. M26 has been pretty good here. I wondered if his experience moght reflect something about conditions in the south. My M26 trees bear at a few years old and seem like they’ll top out at 10 ft or so. I tend to prune them to a modified open center- I.e a few tiers of scaffolds vs starting with a pure vase form.
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Late to the party! Where can I get scion wood for 2024?
I cut back mature cider apple trees this winter and would have huge amounts of scion wood to share for:
gate red (not a real variety, 20 years I ordered a plum and when it grew out it was an apple. has delicious large red apples with great flavor, crunch. good for cider)
roxbury russet
calville blanc
golden russet
Yellow Newtown Pippin
york imperial
wagoner
also
fuji
centennial crab
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Russets are always good, “If it’s rough it’s good enough.” is what I always say. 
(I believe that’s my original quotation)
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If you order for spring planting instead you can graft them and then plant them, much easier than bending over the holes after they’re planted.
You can even plant them in a well worked raised bed or hilled in in larger pots together and transplant them at the end of the season.
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I can plant them in spring instead of fall, but it is harder for trees to survive our summers while they are getting established. Fall is our preferred planting season so that trees can get all of that good cool season root growth when they are not being stressed by our hot and dry summer weather.
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That may not be an issue since you’ll cut the tree back so much to graft it that there will be very little to lose water.
If you do M111 graft them as high as possible to get the rooted section as low as you can, that should do it… I hope.
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Wondering how my Clarks crab grafts are doing - and how that song is coming? Maybe I need to go change the plates on my beat up truck and listen for the train.
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