I’ve had success with feijoa grafts starting around early June all the way into late July.
W/T seems to produce the healthiest growth for me. Side grafting also works well but takes a few years before the graft union looks clean. Shouldn’t matter if you bury the graft union as is often recommended.
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Just noticed my (cleft) grafts from March had their parafilm peeling off, so thought I’d share a couple close-ups of the most vigorous ones (these are @Marta 7 and Marta 10 on separate bushes):
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Nice, those look well knitted.
With this graft that starts, here variety Pounamou, my small collection of feijoas arrives at 16 fruit varieties. I have a few hiccups, 5 varieties this year that weren’t successful. I think due to the time of completion and the very low temperature this year for a summer at my house.
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Here is a grafting of the kakapo variety with wood with green bark.
@ramv There is no need to graft green with such long wood.
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Murky, you look like grafting master!
Well, let’s see if they take and grow 
BTW, the cuttings molded badly and were tossed. I didn’t really make any attempt to control for that, so not a big surprise. Just figured I’d give the miracle a chance, rather than tossing the remaining budwood.
For zone 7 feijoas, do you keep them in-ground, or in pots to bring in over winter? Do you get fruit off of them in zone 7?
I’m zone 7a (just outside of Philly), and I’ve wanted to plant feijoas for quite a while now, but I always thought I wouldn’t be able to get any fruit here.
dpps: below +15F outside will negatively affect next year’s bloom.
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I keep them in-ground, I don’t like growing fruits in pots. There is no way feijoas can survive in zone 7A and most likely B too. They might survive a winter or two but sooner or later there will be frost that will either kill the plant or cause serious diebacks. My 3 year old feijoas died in 2017. Now I am giving it another attempt but will cover them once temperature hits 15 and lower. The plants are still young, I had first bloom this year but removed them so I will see in the upcoming years, I have 5 early varieties
Not necessary to remove all blooms from young feijoa plants. Let a few mature to see what quality of fruit the bush produces.
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Yesterday I inspected the Mammoth bush that I did those summer grafts to.
The chip bud failed, it never calloused. The bark and whip and tongue are still wrapped with buddy tape. They didn’t push last year. If they don’t push, I’ll unwrap and inspect them.
I wasn’t able to get my phone cam to focus yesterday when I hastily tried to take some pictures, but the T-bud from the first picture looks great. Now the question is, do I decapitate the top or give the graft above it a chance first. Still plenty of time for that.
I don’t want to notch or girdle at this point.
Very impressed with your success mate! I tried a few cleft this year for the first time (in November, Australia) and got 3 out of 10… I’ll try something else next time… up to when(what time of the year? zone 9b) is it worth trying ?
Just got a bunch of cuttings from @LarryGene’s feijoa and was able to do 3 cleft grafts before the baby got fussy about being ignored in the stroller. I’ll probably do about 3 or 4 more this afternoon, but after that I still should have plenty of extras if anyone around Seattle wants scionwood!
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Looks like, of the 4 grafts, the chip bud and whip and tongue failed. The bark graft is still wrapped, and darned it the T bud doesn’t look happy. Looks like it slid, either during wrapping or from heave:
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hi, I think that if you want this bud to come out of dormancy you should cut the main branch above it.
Yes, I’m waiting until the feijoa start growing this season. I think I’ll break, and bend over the top, being careful not to break below the bud.
My bushes are just barely starting to grow after our cold spring, and it looks like this graft of @LarryGene’s tree might have succeeded (though I did have a false start on one last year):
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Feijoa here just now showing signs of life, no significant growth yet.
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