I’m transplanting four rooted fig cuttings to 3 gallon pots. I rooted them in 4 x 4 x 9 tall pots with Pro Mix BX but it held so much water I will never use it again, has some perlite but not nearly enough.
What about 1:1 mushroom compost and pine fines for up-potting?
You could try it, I’m not sure? I would myself would do 3-1-1 pine, compost, Pro-mix (since you have it). If compost is going to be the only food, then i would do 3-2-1 But it’s just guessing.
All will work, but which one fits your needs, watering, feeding schedule etc. I’m often gone for 3 or 4 days and need a mix that is heavy on water retention. Usually the figs are very glad to see me when I get back. As nothing keeps water forever.
I don’t use pro-mix to root, but do use it with seeds. I add DE the size of perlite to help it drain and have air, yet have water too inside the DE. Used much like you would use perlite. Which will work too. Makes a dryer mix than DE.
I’m not a fan of lime but it’s just me. I use other things for calcium. I don’t like how it increases pH. Figs can grow in high pH but prefer a pH of about 6.0.
In a pot, I would skip the compost entirely, or maybe only use it as top dressing. In ground, compost works magic.
A local grower uses pine bark/fir bark exclusively, it provides excellent drainage. And won’t break down for years. Use liquid fertilizer like Miracle Gro dissolved in water for nutrients.
I like to use compost to protect the plant from any possible root rot, or soil born pathogens… Hundreds of studies confirm this. Also to add bacteria. I use it in all plant pots and I have about 150 containers.
In this U. of Georgia extension bulletin for home garden figs they suggest 5.5 to 6.5
U. of Maryland suggests 6.0 to 6.5. I feel this is a good range. I would adjust pH if over 7.5. This is the highest pH I have seen mentioned, Rutgers gives a range of 6.7 to 7.5 https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/figs
Figs are not that picky but most tap water is very basic, so if your soil is over 7 it will not take long for it to be too high. Some tap water is lower, but lower than 6.5 and you have another Flint situation on your hands.
@Drew51 Do you withhold water before up-potting a fig cutting? I read somewhere about “hardening off” to reduce transplant wilt by not watering or fertilizing for a week prior. Sun hardening different topic- mine are fully sun adapted for a month.
Yes, I like to do that. I’m up potting a bunch each day right now. A few days is all it needs.
I never heard that but it makes sense. I use pure particulate (size of perlite) diatomaceous earth. It can suck moisture from plant if too dry, or at least it’s a concern so no I don’t withhold water. I would think also less pull on the root ball as soil is dry. I have a few in soil and will try it.
This is basically what i used for my potted gardenias and they’ve done excellent…plus it is slow to break down. Problem is finding fine enough pine barks. I was lucky in that i had a bag saved from when i found some locally years back. I fertilize a lot.
I’ve spent a good amount of time studying potting soil and its effects on potted plants. Here are my observations.
Most store bought potting soil is fantastic for figs — for about 1 season.
Then it breaking down, due to the effects of rain, freezing and general bacterial/fungal activity.
Most potting soil is used for growing annuals or tomatoes. For this purpose, it is fantastic. You are expected to throw away potting soil after one season. And further, no manufacturer considers fig tree growers as a major customer base.
Note that one of the largest components of store bought potting soil is compost. (Either first or second listed ingredient)
Over time, the soil collapses around the roots, preventing them from breathing. Roots need oxygen. The tree stops thriving. I have wondered why my trees in pots grew so well initially and then stopped thriving.
A long term well draining mix in a pot is critical. Compost, while providing excellent nutrition and possibly protection against pathogens, does not maintain structure for longer than a few months. It should not be a significant component, if at all of LONG TERM potted medium.
In that case commercial potting soil with lots of compost will do wonderfully.
I would bare root the tree before up-potting to the final size container.
I am more impressed with feeding the soil than the plant. Marketing plays a big deal on the pictures and formulations and name of course: ‘Fruit Tree Fertilizer’, ‘Rose Fertilizer’, etc. etc. The company ‘Dr. Earth’ for me with coco coir if I could afford it along with perlite to 30% or so.
The other alternative is Dr. Earth with Peat Moss and Perlite. The last time I was on Amazon the only Dr. Earth product that wasn’t skyrocket expensive was their ‘Fruit Tree’ type. You can get 12 pounds for 28$ I think. That’s what I paid months ago when everything was readily available in their entire & large products line.
Ramv,
Can you show me the kind of pine bark/fir bark you talked about, please?
Around here, all we get is pine bark mulch and it is very coarse.
I’ve tried to find a good potting mix for my fig and other fruit trees. It seems after a year, water just run through without any retention while the trees still look thirsty.