I remember you telling me the struggles you had with G210 last year and as you also know I ordered them for this year so… also G969 for a first this year. The G890 performances I thought were very good for my first time Grafting.
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From my reading, G210 and G890 produce similar size trees but G210 tree can have suckering issues not found on G890 so that is why I went with G890.
I’m in a Z4a/b climate so my interest was in the cold hardiness, and I wanted free-standing trees.
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My understanding is that 890 tends to grow a very beefy central leader, sounds perfect for a cider orchard. We’ll all find out soon enough if it lives up to the hype.
My Cummins order came through 8 days ago, 35 G.890 and a handful of B.118. I thought my 890 stock from them was very good, healthy and well-packed. The B.118 stock was outstanding, the only better rootstock I’ve ever bought is OHxF333 directly from Cal Poly’s crops unit on campus that they grew themselves.
I thought Cummins was propagating their rootstocks? Aside from the late (for me, it’s basically summer here) shipping date, I was very happy with them. When I contacted them about my ship date their reply was very prompt and explained that they aren’t able to get shipments for CA inspected until the last week of March.
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They actually do not propagate any of the rootstocks that they sell. I too was pretty shocked when I was told that myself. I planted out my failed G 890 grafts form last years attempt. I’m going to probably cleft graft them and maybe even try a chip bud coming this summer.
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It’s kind of interesting, Cummins isn’t listed as a licensed propagator of G.890. Last fall either Cummins or Indian Creek Farm posted a picture on Facebook of them harvesting rootstocks. It could be they buy them in bulk, plant them out for a season and havest in the fall for refrigeration, or they’re only propagating a few specific varieties of the G series.
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Tino told me last year it wasn’t feasible for them when there are nurses on the west coast that specialize with rootstocks so they buy them and resell them depending on that the customers are asking for.
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More power to them. Not all of us need a 50+ rootstock bundle from Treco or Willamette etc. Cummins probably has the best per unit price on the G series compared to other retail nurseries, and for sure carries the best selection of them.
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Despite the cancellation for the Spokane Propagation Fair, Dave B. got me ten Gen890 to play with this time around. I’ll try some low vigor varieties and some middle-of-the-road to see how it performs in eastern WA.
Since Gen30 tends to runt out at 30-40% of standard out this way (works great for me, a backyard grower).
Looking around I learned Gen890 was released in January 2003, so now less than 3 years before I can stool it without incurring anyone’s wrath. Three years of growth should indicate whether or not it will be a candidate.
BTW, this last season I learned how easy Budagovsky118 is to root. Will again root whatever tops get taken off for grafts and whack one already in the ground so it can push shoots.
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That’s good news to read. Various soil types and microclimate locations open up the proverbial ( door ) to seeing what the G890 is capable of and it’s limitations. I currently have 100 M106 sitting in my garage waiting on me to start the grafting process.
Any photos of the rooting process? what medium and at what stage?
Lord Kiwi: Craving pardon, your Grace, but we have yet to discern how to convey photos from wife’s cell phone to this forum. Ah, but we have tried!
Rooting pieces cut for grafting: Keep buds pointing up if dormant. If in green leaf, trim top two or three twigs to a few leaves each & if these leaves are large cut outer halves away to reduce transpiration. On lower section I score (scrape) six inches long on opposite sides of the stick. (Exposes cambium.) Dust or dip with rooting hormone. Make a hole long and wide enough to insert in potting soil (which I’ve used) or loads of vermiculite/perlite (which I don’t have), put it gently in and firm medium to it. Keep evenly moist - not wet - and out of strong sunshine. Wait, & weed if needed. I have covered with wood shavings as mulch to good effect.
Some years ago I put a five gallon bucket, with yard dirt and potting soil mixed, out by a north facing wall & put four pieces of Geneva 30 in it, done as described. They all took over the course of months. Last January I found root suckers of Budagovsky 118 at the base of that tree (it had been severely cut back in '18 when I top-worked it), cut them & did this procedure. All four Bud118 pieces have rooted already. I will graft to them very soon, Lord willing.
Stooling: plant root stock & allow to gain a full season of growth. Cut to the ground (& root cuttings as above). Put a 1/2 inch “hardware cloth” cylinder, 12-24 inch diameter, around it. When shoots come up from the root, pour sawdust or wood chips in while allowing some upper leaves sunlight. Fill again a couple more times through the year. Roots will develop in the moist shavings without other help. The next spring, wash or gently sweep away shavings to reveal new root stocks, cut from ground level. Repeat.
Some, like Geneva 30, will push only a few shoots. Others will push hordes of 'em. If you have one of those, use the wider diameter cage. I have no use for M7 way out west where I live with sandy soil.
Actually, I have ten MM106 to play with first time this year, also. Big year!
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on an android phone photos will be uploaded to photos.google.com after you click a photo to open it right click select copy. Right click the post and select paste.
you can likely view photos online in icloud also.
My first time also working with the M106 rootstock, to date I’ve only grafted the M7 and I have 3 M7 trees that are 7 years at the house. Don’t like how they like to lean as they grow though.
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They continually lean and as they get older as well. I recently had one M7 fall over and I had to restake it yet again. I have more of a clay soil and I think they will probably not do well over the long run for me.
That’s what I’ve noticed as well with many of the trees at my local orchard. These older trees in my unknowing understand in the past always made me think it was caused by the wind. That could be part of it but I’d tend to believe it’s the very nature of the M7 at work. My soil at the house is a fantastic stuff but my trees are still growing at the awkward angles that are unpleasant to see. Hopefully the M106 isn’t prone for this leaning issue.
Every M7 rootstock I’ve had has leaned. Usually all one way from the prevailing wind.
M106 should be better unless you have poorly draining clay soil.
G890 too early to tell how free standing and straight it will prove to be…but I can tell one thing already, it’s not had as good a rate of ‘takes’ as G202, G30, or the B-9,B-118,B-10. I’ve had more graft failures on G890 than I think I should…failure to knit together as whip and tongue graft and grow.
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Well, I’ll take extra care in utilizing G890 - 'though it should go without saying for any graft. I’ve found a bit of a wind tunnel between houses where I must stake & run a line to keep young trees from leaning with any of the stocks I’ve used.
Yes, I have some clay in my soil so I cannot use the M7’s effectively. I have a few planted to try them out but I can see these are probably not the best for my soil. I have most of my trees on the M111 rootstocks. They seem to be doing better for me.
I appreciate you giving us the update on the G890 rootstock. I had looked at getting a few trees on the G890 rootstock but now I will not use that variety. I have 4 trees on the G series rootstocks and I am not impressed with the tree size and fruit production of them. Only one of the G series is doing well and producing a lot of fruit. I cannot tell if it is because of the apple variety itself or because of the rootstock.