My G890 grafts from 2 years ago takes were considerably higher then with the G969 and the horrible G210 that I did last year. I’m still only in my 3 rd year of experimental apple tree grafting and I hope that I’ve finally found the rootstock that best fits my needs in the M106 but, only time will tell.
Well, I’ve not actually given up on G890. I ordered 10 more roots this year. But of the 10 I know at least 3 have not shown signs of growing.(yet). But, the ones that failed last year, I grafted them about 30 days ago before my rootstocks arrived this spring, and all the G890’s took this second go-around grafted to a potted plant outdoors in early March. I also grafted one or two G202 that had failed, along with several Antonovka….and all but one, an Antonovka, took this year.
How precocious, how free standing, and any disease issues, are things I’ll be watching out for on the G890. The tree should be about the size of the M7, or so they say. (But quicker to bear, and more disease resistance to about everything.)
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Keep us updated as to how you think they are doing. it will be interesting to see if their claims are backed up by results. I hope they work out for you.
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I know some grumbled, but the G30 did fine for me, as for the grafts taking…but plant growth hasn’t been good on it or G202. Evidently it’s hard to produce (stool)….is why it’s going out of favor, and G890 is probably the replacement they will push unless something better comes along.
I got 10 B-10 roots substituted on me this year…and I was happy with that. All 10 grafts have taken. And I’d love to try the B490 if it becomes available. Until such time as I see problems, the Budagovsky roots look like winners to me.
I like the size of my 7 year old M7 trees so, if the G890 grows similar to it, that’s what I’m looking forward to.
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Do the B-10’s need to be continually staked? I have some 202’s, poor growers.I am glad you have had good luck with the B-10’s.
The M7 sizes are great. It is just the leaning that is the issue for me. I’ve had a few tip completely over that I planted in the last few years. I may have to have them continually staked if they start to look as if they are going to tip over again. Either that or I replace them with a M111 replacement. Those M111 rootstocks seem to do very well at my homestead.
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Yes they need to be staked. B10 is larger than B9 but still a dwarf tree. Think of it being about the same size as a G11 rootstock.
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If time and space allows, buying and planting the rootstock and then grafting the next spring when new growth appears is a great way to guarantee a high grafting success rate with apples and many other types of fruit trees. I am 6 for 6 with this method on G-890 this year.
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Just now (March 2020) working with B-10 MikeC
But the grafts took, 9 out of 10 are certain, the other possible still yet…I think that scion is Va. Beauty.
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I have two G202 and two G11/M111 planted. One G202 is doing fine, lots of apple production. The other G202 looks runted. The G11/M111 are just as runted as the one G202. They are all in one row about 15 feet apart from each other. I am in the process of trying to find another rootstock to use with the apples I have on those runted trees. I planted them in 2014.
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In my orchard I believe I only have 18 or so on the M7 rootstocks, it’s a bit concerning but, I’ll have to see how they respond in the next 2-3 years. I’m hoping that the M106 is the exact rootstock I hope for. Time will tell. My grafting season starts tomorrow. Wish me well.
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Frankly, I’ve gotten more 1st year growth from grafts onto B-9 than anything.
(But, I know they are not going to be super productive, and probably not reach 10 feet except with real vigorous varieties.) (But, I’ll either continue growing in containers, or plant 3 to 5 feet apart.)
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The g969 I got from Cummins this year had pretty good root systems for a Geneva rootstock, though nothing compared to the m111s. Still, so far, I’ve liked 969 for other trees in the ground. They are also supposed to be good nursery subjects, which I guess means that they still easier and root better.
Only time will tell for you. See how they look and how they produce in 3-5 years.
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I left a number of my unsuccessful grafts from 2019 to grow on there own
once I removed the failed scions, I’m going to regraft them in the Nursey and hopefully have the same success as you’ve experienced. I believe it’s a great way of utilizing a established rootstock just like you mentioned. Happy Grafting my friend.
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Fifteen of the first 16 I regrafted (about 4 weeks ago) took. Including all the G890’s the second
go-around.
(A couple have 4 inches or more new growth already from the scionwood!)
I bought (2) G-890 Kingston Black, (1) MM-111 Bulmer’s Norman, and (2) Blanc Mollet trees from Cummin’s last year, plus (3) EMLA-106 Hewe’s Virginia Crab from Raintree, and put them all in pots (wife wanted to move). The G-890 Kingston Blacks grew 24 plus inches, the Bulmer’s more than 30 inches, and the Hewe’s about 30 as well. The G-210 Blanc Mollet were smaller caliber to begin, but hardly grew 8 inches. Also, I had grafted 20 scions onto G-210 rootstocks from Cummin’s, and 19 were successful. However, disease or water (?) probs caused leaves to brown, curl and drop resulting in death of 12, and remaining seven grew poorly, between only 6 to 10 inches. Knowing more now than then, I am switching over to B-118 and Antonovka rootstocks and pitching everything on G-210 (after collecting scions from them first). Giving the G-890, MM-111, and EMLA 106 trees to daughter (who will share the crops with me) and keeping the (20) B-118 (Cummin’s) and (10) Antonovka (Fedco) rootstocks to see which do best…before settling on a final sized orchard of 20 standard-sized trees. I am in 4b Montana, so vigor and cold-hardiness, plus deer, wind, ground squirrels, voles, bears, & etc., are reasons for B-118, Antonovka, as well as recommendation by Claude Jolicoeur in his cider book for growing with minimal application of fertilizers and pesticides once trees are established.
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Any updates on the proformance of the G890 and G969?
The G890 I have to seem to grow a more upright tree vs. the G969.
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