If the difference is too great between scion & stock, I go to the cleft graft. It has worked far better for me than saddle or ‘V’ grafts. I’ve even made it upside down, with the cleft in the scion if it is especially hard wood.
Using stock again if a graft fails is what prompted my first try at cleft grafting. Best thing to do is try - & try again each year. I’ve done 100s of bench grafts by now in an orchard near town, & scores of grafts to stock or trees in the pot/ground.
BTW, if you feel adventurous, try rooting the upper part of the stock you cut away. I pinch off twigs/buds on the part that will go in soil, score/scrape a line or two about six inches, dust with rooting hormone (there are also wet/dipping products that work as well) put it into a pre-made hole. Press gently around it, keep it moist (not wet) and in either strong indirect light or very early morning sun. Even Geneva 30 works this way. Budagovsky118 is a slam-dunk.
Luongo43: Good to see you are beginning. Look for maximum cambium contact. Be patient. I have ruined more than one graft by pulling tape off before the callus is strong. Girdling is a much lesser problem than my blundering in that way.
An example: I made a cleft graft of Winekist, which puts out wire-thin twigs, onto a root stock that came up from a tree that had been cut down. For weeks and then three months I kept checking to see of the twig/scion was green & flexible. Yep. It opened buds in July and still was ready for the following winter in time.