Thanks I will give it a thorough read.
This is same Asian Pear (Shineseiki) I posted earlier. I see some green forming between scion and the rootstock. Looks like it could be a callus.
I think you’re right about the smell, it did smell like lumber.
I know what you mean about leafing out. I’ve stuck pruned off branches into the ground and they can sometimes leaf out even without roots. So just leafing out doesn’t guarantee anything, but if it then grew few inches, I would be encouraged.
Can t budding be done any time of year with bark slip on callery and Bet?
Thank you, clark, sage of pears. I will wait…
@fruitnut tutorial on tbudding is excellent. Highly recommend you read that thread. T-budding tutorial
Update on my Shinseiki graft from 3/26. Looks like leaves are finally wanting to unfurl.
Also, I don’t think I was even using parafilm. It just seems more like Glad Cling Wrap but in a tape form. Still worked I guess.
I’ve gone back to my original apple/pear grafting method of 40 years ago: no parafilm or anything else on scion except a dab of something to seal the tip. No reduction in success.
I am getting tired of wasting so much parafilm on the top of the trunks. I am about ready to bust out my caulk gun.
Pears are not picky usually we treat pears nowadays like we are grafting apricots! The only reason i go to as much trouble as i do is to make sure i get near 100% take rate. We dont need that good of rates. It is likely we are only gaining a 5-15% margin of succesful grafts even in a place like Kansas where the wind can be constant. Parafilm is really expensive right now if we can even find it.
Seems like as soon as i graft them they start growing!
The cool weather this year is nice though our rainfall has been limited. The wind has been excessive which requires some extra thought in field grafting. Grafting in Kansas is a little different than what many people might think. Yesterday i planned to graft a ts hardy pear tree. When i looked for the scion wood it was gone from my grafting tool bucket. It was in a 5 gallon plastic bucket. Wind speeds were at least 40 mph. That is not unusual this year it has been windy most of the time and calm once in awhile. My hat was ripped off my head an unknown number of times during gusts.
Is this BET rootstock? I got it from fruit woods and confirmed it with the owner. But however every time I look it, it doesn’t look like a pear tree to me.
Cool. I thought it’s some kind of hawthorn initially…but I don’t see thorns on it probably because it’s still young.
It is still a baby, it wont stay that way long.
Someone will ask what happened to the baby pear last year i grafted with the dog leg in the trunk. It is a 6 1/2 -7 foot baby now. It will fruit in a year or two i can imagine. This is after it was hard pruned this winter.
It was around 8 feet tall last year. This was right after grafting it. It lost some height when i pruned and shaped it.
This was when i pulled the tape
This last photo was last year before it was pruned.
Pruned it back to a central leader and removed the other side of the cleft. Shaped it up which will allow it to grow really good this year. We just have not had any rain.
When I removed betulifolia rootstock suckers I also had a feeling the leaves had resemblance to hawthorn leaves.
It’s been windy here in northern Kentucky as well these past few years. I don’t ever remember it being this consistently windy. I thought my hunting blind was going to launch my dad and I while turkey hunting this evening.
What do you do when you graft to big rootstock when you get fast growth, keep cutting it back or stake them somehow? I had some grafts taken out last year with a sudden 75 mph gust. The winds came and were finished in less than 5 minutes. Another grew 4 feet last year and decided to flop over this Spring.
Cleft grafts as your aware are very strong. Cutting them back is necessary sometimes.