I am wondering if folks can post pictures of their trees on M111, whatever the age. I am growing most of backyard orchard on this stock for several reasons, but I would love to see a visual of how folks are training them and just how they look. I have mine spaced at 18x24’ for plenty of space and air flow. I’m not trying to maximize yield or do anything commercial orchards are doing, I just want beautiful, long-lived trees that are tough and produce enough fruit for my family to enjoy. I want to master working with this rootstock, including pruning and training etc. Most of what I can find is all about tall spindle (and I totally understand the way that works and why etc) but I want to learn how to make a beautiful semi-dwarf tree that eventually requires less work than the start. Anyways, pictures and advice would be greatly appreciated!
Would that not kind of depend on the variety you are growing? Certain varieties have certain growing characteristics. And the training type matters to make best use of the variety’s preference.
I am just growing central leader form for now. Strange, my M111 has the highest survival of grafts by a small amount. But the vigor is the lowest of all 3 comparing size.
When I make my trees specifically for fruit, Some will be Guyandotte trained or Triple or 4 leader for fanning. Those look easy for a relative newbie.
I have mostly M111 apple trees in my orchard. Main reason is the have better anchoring and are drought resistant. In my area we get periods of drought and also very high humidity and temps. I have had very good luck with the M111. The only two two apple trees that have gotten a lot bigger than I wanted. It is my fault that I did not get them under control sooner. They are probably 14-16’ tall. Most of my others are 12’. Still taller than what I want. I will trim them back this next year and get them back down to maybe 8-10’. Tall enough to get fruit and yet keep them manageable.
I have mine about 16’ between trees. Most of mine are in a single row not is rows.
i really like interstem apple tree rootstocks EMLA9/M111. They only get about 6-8’ tall and have been producing enough apples for me to use. I wish all my apple trees were on the EMLA9/M111 interstem rootstocks.
I tried G.214 on M111 but with no luck. Did not get a chance to make any P2/m111; but they are said to do well. I’m not getting any Geneva next year. So maybe I can try it this coming year.
I thought I got misidentified P1. But it turned out to be the real mcCoy, So I will deep plant them soon to get them on their own roots. And have them to stool next year. Supposedly much like M7 but more precocious.
I hope P1 does not have a tendency to lean like the M7 does. That is one feature about the M7 that I hate, yes hate.
Do you have any pics of your shorter M111s? I like the idea of keeping them 8-10’. I have a 2 year old Liberty Apple on m111 that is already at least 8 feet tall. I have tied down all scaffold branches trying to make it grow outward. I’m considering doing open center training, gotta make decisions.
I have 1 tree on a homemade b9mm111 interstem. It is only in its 3rd year since the scion (Hewes Crab) was grafted to the interstem. It is already ~ 8 ft tall. This was the first year it put out any flowers. I too put this rootstock in because of the clay soil I have and the propensity for that location to get swampy in the spring. I am hoping for a tree that eventually is kept ~ 14 ft tall. Well see what we end up with.
I’ve really struggled settling on a very dwarfing tree. So far I am going to plant Kaido Crab seedlings, Stool Malus Brevipes and Bud57-146.
Might try them on M111 too.
Yes, exactly right about the swampy area. I use the EMLA9/M111 rootstocks in that area because that area gets a lot of water and that swampy ground you mentioned. Especially in the spring time. All the other rootstocks I looked do not like wet feet. So far the EMLA9/M111 has been working great. I have had some in the ground for 10 years.
I have 3rd and 4th leaf m111 trees. I gave initial heading cut on all my m111 whips and train them as open center, with focus on bending limbs. I believe this has helped my trees bare earlier and also not grow as vigorously (in addition to being in heavy clay soil).
I’ll post some pictures tomorrow.
I do something similar. I bring a stick and saw so I can create my own stakes. I hammer the stakes into the ground and tie branches to the stake with jute twine.
Cinder blocks actually look more fool proof but I imagine they’re heavy to lug around.
You could take a Vigorous scion on M111 on central leader and switch a pair of laterals to triple vertical axis leader. Having 3 on one root tames the vigor. But will take another year to fill in before fruiting. But it really chomps down the number of trees to fill out a plot.
It is also pretty simple supply wise.
Here’s few of my trees on m111, 3rd leaf with open center training. Discounting few upright growths, majority of the canopy is still under 4 feet.
Foreground is Goldrush. Mid-background is Arkansas Black, and Right-background is Rubinette.
Regarding tree training, I’d highly recommend you watch SkillCult’s playlist on the subject. Much of the information out there is ill-founded.
This one is an mm111/b9 interstem. The scion that was grafted is Hewes Crab. As can be seen, the mm111 puts out suckers (has so far every year) even though the mm111/b9 graft union is a couple inches under the soil line.
It seems a bit spindley but we’ll see how it grows in.
None of the EMLA9/M111 's I have planted have become that spindly in their growth. Not sure if it is because of the scion variety that was grafted on it. I admit I know nothing of how the Hewes Crab grows or looks while growing.