I don’t have a whole lot to add, except that for somebody new to grafting that’s a pretty ambitious project! Looks pretty good to me, just wait and see 
Thank you. It’s fun to learn. I just hope I don’t hurt the trees. This website is great to learn from. I got on a few days ago and can’t put the phone down. Haha. A lot of really good blogs and discussions about things I have been thinking about. Fertilizer. Watering. Wood chips. There is even a discussion about the use of urine with a water schedule. Lol. I have thought about it but haven’t tried to save mine yet. I think my wife would kill me if I saved a jug of urine next to the toilet lol. The closest I get to that is telling my kids to pee on the trees.
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The pictures that I took are blurry.
Will take some tomorrow.
The first time that I did chip budding on my persimmon tree. I cut too deep and the tree was broken after one year by wind blow. The tree is only one year old.
One long time member here who is very good at chip budding is @warmwxrules.
I think he posted pics of how it’s done before. It looked easy but like I said, I sucked at it.
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I really enjoy @fruitnut tbudding tutorial T-budding tutorial - #41 by BobVance for those who have not read it.
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I had chip buds on E plum take nicely last spring. Mirabelle on prune. I can’t remember how the prune was growing at that point, but it leafs out later than a lot of my trees.
My tip on chip budding --which is the most fun way to graft, imho-- is that you can angle the bud askew a little to ensure cambium contact. You don’t really have to exactly match sizes, although the height matters more than width, I think.
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Hello, i make the grafting early spring, i use 2 metod of grafting - bark grafting and cleft graft.
In the summer i use only Z graft. Thanks ,Greetings from Romania zone 7A.
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Nice!
I didn’t know fiskars is doing grafting knives too. I like the shape and size of the blade. It looks to be larger than my victorinox and I was looking for that.
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@spawnsfm
Nice looking grafting! A couple of minor things i do sometimes is i use less grafting wood on my clefts if i need to conserve. In those cases i only leave 1 bud per graft so my wood goes further. The other minor thing i do if there are problems getting back to what i grafted right away that year is leave my top bud facing out on short grafts so that when it forms a branch its facing out instead of in. When i go back and prune later its easier if the cleft grafts are not crossing. Neither thing matters really because one cleft gets cut off anyway in most cases so bud direction matters very little and the scion size does not matter to much. One of the biggest problems i face in my area is wind and storms so longer peices catch more wind until they heal. Birds use my grafts for perches at times also if my graft is tall. We graft very similar Top working Pears weather permitting. Many times im doing lots of grafts so its difficult to do everything perfect because it must be done fast.
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Very nice work. Are you doing an espalier fence in the 5th picture?
I’ve done my mulberries and most of my jujubes. I’ve done mostly cleft grafts this year and am working on trying to develop some skill making cuts. I’m not sure I’m not going to take up whittling instead of grafting! It is very frustrating. Here is one of my latest ones…a cleft of a different juju on the main leader of a variety that is not very tasty. I’ve taken very few photos this year. I had a dismal grafting experience last year and it was well documented with photos. I decided some things are not worth revisiting…
PS after taking and looking at the photo I did cover that small open area with parafilm!!
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I always get those, and that’s when my Johnny Wax comes out!
You’re working carefully and it looks great. Barring the unforeseen it’ll take.
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Thanks for all the replies guys. I do have one more quick question. When should I take the parafilm off on some of these? I know on some of them the buds will poke through. But on the other bud grafts if they don’t when should I unwrap them? On the branch grafts I can definitely tell some are taking. Should I unwrap those fairly soon? This is the weather we are having this week. Still lower temperatures.
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Parafilm by itself is safe to leave on- it will degrade and slough off by itself. Same with rubber bands. But if you have black plastic tape, poly strips, or any other material that will not stretch and/or degrade on its own you should cut it off by fall. In any event, give everything several weeks.
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Cool. Thank you
ddFinally I failed one peach chip budding this spring. My friend send me the scions with flowers. I pinched the flowers and found only three buds on one one scion wood. I did two chip buddings and one became brown.
Dang. Sorry to hear. Many of mine haven’t done well but I’m sure it’s because it was too early in the season. Good try though.
Hello again everyone. I didn’t do too hot this year with bud grafting. But a lot of the branch grafting that I did is working well.
The picture below is a pristine apple that I grafted onto a ginger gold tree. I am a little worried about it though because it almost looks like it is separating. Is there a type of glue/adhesive/filling that I could put in there to help it heal all the way around?
If you think it will break you should put a splint on it for a year or so, or stake the tree and tie it off. It should heal with no further help.
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