How Old Before Setting Fruit?

I hear all these people talking about how long they’ve waited for fruit on trees, and sometimes it seems like a really long time.

Some of the fruit trees I’ve purchased came with fruit already on them, and they weren’t very old/big trees.

So are the people who are talking about how long it’s taking to get fruit, did you start with a little whip or a seedling? Or are some varieties just more difficult than others?

I purchased mostly grafted trees because I didn’t wanna wait so long for fruit so it’s a little discouraging to see people waiting seven years. I guess it won’t matter because I went a little crazy on how many I have an ordered so I’m sure I’ll get something within a couple of years, but if I just bought a tree or two and seven years later, no fruit, I might be a little depressed.

Well, except for seedlings, I know seedlings will take some time.

Trees that came with fruit hanging:

Kumquat
Palestinian sweet lime
Golden delicious apple
Emerald beaut plum

Edit to add: here is one of the Emerald Beaut plums that came on the young tree:


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You are missing several pieces to the puzzle. Dwarf trees tend to produce much earlier than standard trees. Citrus tends to produce even on small bushes in containers.

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Also isn’t it true that when you plant your tree out after receiving it sort of looses some ‘credit’ for the current age of the tree?

I’m not sure how much sense that makes but I’ve seen this comment several times online. Maybe it’s just to curb expectations and expect a long wait.

I also wonder if ‘years to fruit’ refers to full production as opposed to actual first fruit. I lean towards this explanation as so much of the press we are exposed to probably started from commercial farms, not “back yard” growers…where a handful of fruit doesn’t mean much if you can’t sell them.

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Are you including semi dwarf when you say dwarf?

Golden delicious is on m111
Emerald Beaut plum on Citation

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It varies a lot. Another factor not mentioned is length of growing season. That does make a difference in some cases.

Stone fruit planted 10 months ago in my greenhouse should all bear in 2024. That’s peach, nectarine, apricot, and pluot. My greenhouse has a 10 month long and warm growing season.

When I moved from Amarillo to Fresno in 2000 I was surprised how soon things bore fruit. Fresno growing season was about 50% longer than Amarillo. Even apples on M9 had a big crop the year after planting.

Grapes can bear the second year if the plant grows enough the first year. I’ll have grapes in 24 from plants grown from cuttings in a pot in 23 and just now planted in ground.

Persimmons are another matter. IME they’re lucky to grow much at all the first year. Fruit in year 3-4.

Citrus are quick to bear. Grafted mangos set on tiny trees. Blueberries can bear a lot the 2nd year if they grow a lot the first year. Blackberries and raspberries bear the 2nd year.

My Comice and Bosc pears took about 7-8 years to fruit. Asians can fruit 2nd or 3rd year.

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I think for avocados (which I know are one of the things you’re zone pushing @DragonflyLane), it’s typical to flower the first year after grafting, but rarely do they set any fruit the first couple years, or if they do they often abort before developing much. They usually start producing around year 3-4.

My oldest grafts are about to start their third full growing season, and are about 9’ tall, but did not hold any fruit this year. I’m hoping next year will be the one!

The longer you grow fruit the more lessons you will learn. It seems that even among a given species the various cultivars will have great differences in their fruiting maturity. For example last spring I grafted several plum varieties. Most flowered but did not set fruit. But two Kuban Comet and Obilnaya had enormous fruit set. Another graft of Ozark Premiere grafted 3 years ago has yet to fruit! Just as in human life you cannot buy time. At your elevation you already have a unique climate and likely a curtailed growing season. Most varieties that you obtain were not evolved in a similar climate, so it may take more time to overcome that factor before the tree reaches production maturity.
Five years ago I planted three varieties of muscadine even though I knew that they require a much warmer and longer growing season. Yet I like them so much I decided to try. I have yet to see a flower cluster on any of them. This year I transplanted them to a much better location that receives sun exposure all day. So next year I will be able to see if they can do more than just grow healthy vines. Patience is required in this sport, you do not always get it right the first time.
Good luck and best wishes
Dennis
Kent, wa

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Took me 6 years from purchasing a Fuji on M-111 rootstock to get a first bloom…the tree had nice limbs so add at least a couple more years since the original grafting of the rootstock.

So, M111 or most seedling rootstocks, don’t be expecting fruits sooner than 6 and it may take more for a 1st fruit.

G41 or G11 or B9 or B10 roots…you may have fruits as soon as 16 months after grafting if you get lucky.

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No, this is an attempt to explain biology with accounting practices.

If you’re looking for simplistic explanations, here’s one that covers a portion of the situation:
The volume of fruit tree harvest is proportional to the volume of its roots.

There are other factors, but many home gardeners fail to understand this one.

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This makes all kinds of sense… Also explains how we can have different experiences with time to fruit as our own climate and soils will never be the same…

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I receive crops from apple trees on M111 a few years following planting. But I think we have significant differences in climate, planting hole size, regularity of irrigation water, and fertilization. Also, I don’t think there’s anything “wrong” with your approach. There are different paths and maturation times to fruit production.

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@fruitnut, I do indeed have a short growing season. Still, I was told by locals that apples and pears should do well. I will find out if that is true at some point.

I applied with the NRSC @ USDA for help getting a high tunnel. We shall see how that goes as well. That was for vegetables but will also come in handy for my one avocado and several smaller citrus trees. I might even be able to plant the citrus trees inside the tunnel instead of keeping them in pots

My 20th Century Pear set about 6 fruit this year and it is small and in a pot. I ended up removing the fruit when I realized that it was stifling root development. That was encouraging though, that it tried. I got it last year, from Four Winds, so you know it was small. I hope it does okay through this Winter, I should have never let it keep fruit. It grew like the dickens too - I had to top it and shorten branches. That is the reason I put a “Shinko” on order for 2024. Looks like Asian pears might work here. Asian pears are not my favorite fruit, but hey, I will take what I can get. At least they are juicey. Maybe I will try Tajin on one next time.

We did get raspberries this year, from plants bought the year before. Also got strawberries. I did notice a complete lack of size though. Should be bigger fruits I think. But still, we got berries. And we have wonderful wild blackberries here, so I do expect to have a good chance with blackberries. I ordered 10 ea of Ponca and Kiowa, I hope it works out. I know it will take at least 2 years to even hope for any fruit from them. I saw no disease or pests on the wild berries growing here. I think the biggest berry threats here at this time are bears and deer.

I am happy that I read cherry flies cannot travel far. And I saw no worms in wild berries. Maybe I will get lucky and will not have to worry about those flies. We don’t have crows this high up. We have ravens. A raven couple, to be exact. They have done things we don’t appreciate, such as poking holes in tarps. Gorilla tape fixes the holes.

Also, when we left the dog run door open while walking the dogs, the ravens took out all the dog bones and had them in a pile outside the run in a half hour. It was a pretty big pile of old marrow bones. Now our dogs hate them, see them as bone stealers. I love how huge and intelligent ravens are, beautiful birds.

I have seen hardly any squirrels since the Northern Goshawk started hanging around. We find it staring at our chickens and quail.

Our blueberries were eaten back quite a bit by deer last year, this year they were protected and so were allowed to recover but no berries. Maybe next year. We are learning all kinds of harsh lessons the last two years.

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Some apple trees can easily go 5 or 6 years before fruiting.

Espellar training… or limb bending and summer pruning… can shorten that.

I have Akane and Hudson Golden gem… no fruit 4 years… but last summer and this… i summer pruned them and they both have fruit spurs now.

Hopefully year 5 is fruitful.

Novamac and Goldrush are simply quick to fruit… year 2 here.

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These are few stone fruits I came across at OGW in summer. Happily fruiting in their 7" pot.



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Peaches fruit more quickly than most tree fruits.

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I had to learn the hard way that giving the tree time to grow to size trumps bearing first fruit. Some varieties will bloom the next year, at 11 inches tall. One bloomed the spring it was grafted! On the other hand, several pushed no new green growth the season following transplant, establishing roots.

You might have a cultivated variety (cultivar) that normally takes at least five years after the graft, even on dwarf or semi-dwarf stock, to develop blooms & fruit. Northern Spy is notorious for taking a decade to bloom first time, but there are folks whose comments can be found on this forum saying NS is their most prized fruit.
Lastly, some trees produce plenty of “blind wood,” branches with nary a bloom spur. Those may need to be spread to a wider angle from the trunk and/or cut back as much as a third to stimulate spur production.
I tell people, “Think the lifetime of a tree and scale back your time frame. It’ll be good for the tree and good for you.”

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Yes. Setting a half-dozen fruits is very different from setting a crop.

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In your climate and cultivation methods.

I have had two, Bardsey/EMLA26 & Edelborsdorfer/G41, that came into full bloom in their 8th leaf. Bardsey had begun with 12 sets of bloom from its fourth leaf & is a partial tip-bearer, but not overall until the 8th. Edelborsdorfer had only two sets of blooms in its 7th leaf, the tree about 10 feet tall & still narrow by then.
For differing reasons neither stands in my yard today; still glad for the direct experience.

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8 years… not sure I could wait that long.
I read that shagbark hickory can start producing in 10 years but take 40 for full production.

Below is from Iowa State Univ…

Question:
How soon will a newly planted fruit tree begin to bear fruit?

Answer:
Fruit trees purchased from nurseries and garden centers are usually 1- to 2-year-old plants. The length of time from planting to fruit bearing varies with the species of fruit, the cultivar, and whether the tree is dwarf or standard.

Apple and pear trees grown on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks will come into bearing at a much earlier age than trees grown on standard-size rootstocks. Rootstocks have little effect on the bearing age of other fruit trees.

The average bearing age of fruit trees is as follows; apple - 4 to 5 years, sour or tart cherry - 3 to 5 years, pear - 4 to 6 years, and plum - 3 to 5 years.


I bought a new AU Rosa plum this spring from TSC… it looked like a 2 yr tree had some nice branching already… It bloomed and set 100 plums this spring… then frost wiped them out a couple weeks later. Nothing new for Jplums here.

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