Hybrid Persimmons Future Look Great

I couldn’t believe it when I saw those.

He had asked me via email somehow to contact him and I forgot. He wanted to know when my trees went for sale. I think he got mad at me but man, I have too much to keep track of. I have no idea who many of the people in my email contacts are until I look thru them years later to thin the herd, each time.

I’ve been doing math all day looking at possible hybrid combinations-still. Thanks Tony! btw, I’m still convinced I got the right combination, the first time, a few days ago. I haven’t found anything better. This breeding combination of cultivars we’re going to be using is the right amount of percentage.

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Looked good as a JT-02 to me Tippy.

Dax

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Your JT-02 leaves looked like my JT-02. You are good to go.

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Is anyone besides Tony & I thinking 50% is all JT-02 is: aka 50% vir. to 50% kaki.

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I think newer persimmon “Zolotistaya” from Nikita Botanical Gardens is PCNA https://www.researchgate.net/publication/324542348_Persimmon_collection_in_Nikita_Botanical_Gardens_its_history_and_practical_use

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@Lena – It would seem that way, based on the report. As a note of caution, I’d point out that the report classifies “Triumf” and “Sharon” as PCNA, but we know that they are not.

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Its not hybrid, just pure kaki, in Nikita they at first tried to breed cold hardy kaki

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My Rosseyanka has two problems for which I would like to find names and solutions for. They seem to be independent of each other.

  1. The two on the left in the picture show a skin-deep dry blackened area covering the blossom end. A moderate amount is only cosmetic, but when the area gets large it can start rotting or molding sooner that the rest of the fruit. Just about every fruit has this to some degree, more or less.
  2. The cut fruit on the right shows a hollow core with black mold. The flesh tastes good unless you happen to get a bit of that mold, then it tastes moldy. Maybe about 1 out of 5 fruits will have this.
    These fruits have been in cold storage for a few weeks, but these two conditions existed already before picking.

I’m guessing the blossom end problems are from micronutrient deficiency. Try getting some fertilizer with micronutrients for next spring. Also, check the soil PH and if it is low add some form of calcium.

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Do you grow other persimmons, and if you do are they showing any similar issues?

I also have Nikita’s Gift. It had some of the blackened skin, but not near as much. Also, I don’t remember seeing any of the moldy hollow interiors with them.
I have a full native D.v. (Yates) that did not show either symptom, but they were ripening much earlier during hot weather and would drop from the tree promptly when they ripened and only keep a short time before spoiling by regular rotting throughout. (The only reason I picked the Rosseyanka and put them into cold storage was because the birds were eating them in the tree)

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@atheist – Thanks, that’s a helpful clarification. The production of non-astringent kaki PCNA x PCNA crosses is, of course, not surprising. The Japanese and Koreans have produced lots of such crosses, and no doubt it happens in nature all the time.

On a separate topic, can you shed any light on the reported non-astringency of Gora Roman Kosh? Is the non-astringency reliable – repeatable year after year, consistent across growers, and robust across various growing conditions? Is there any possible foundation in the presumed genetics?

I have no pollinator, neither hybrid virginiana nor kaki with male flowers.
so I apologize for the stupid question.
could it be possible that they were pollinated and the seeds were rejected and rotted internally?

Not a stupid question, but the internal problem does not seem to correspond to a seed, or a former seed. It is a thin film coating the interior surface of the central hollow space. Seeds, if any, would radiate like a wheel spoke outward from center, and would thus be off center. I get very few seeds; maybe only one seed for every three fruits; and even then, most are flat poorly developed ones; but never partly rotted.

Thru Trades… I should be getting Prok, H63A, WS8-10, Kasandra, JT-02 scions this spring.

I have my own Wild DV rootstock, trees here to graft to.

Many out in my field are 3 ft tall, 1/4 inch diameter. I plan to w/t or cleft graft to them.

I have several 2 to 3 inch diameter wild DV trees in the edge of my field… and will probably bark graft to them.

I grafted a mulberry last spring, and 4 apples and had 100% success… hope it goes as well with persimmons.

Does my plan above sound OK to you ?

Also, wondering (if successful) how long (how many years) before I get some fruit ?

I am sure looking forward to tasting all of those.

Here is a sample of the small rootstock wild dv in my field.

Thanks
TNHunter

I don’t know how long it will take on the little trees, on the larger bark grafts you should start getting Persimmons on year 2 -3.
Prok fruited for me on year 2 a couple others on year 3.
Full Sun is your friend. Still waiting on the ones I did in the shade and smaller diameter trees.

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@JCW … thanks.

On some of those trees in the edge of my field (2-3" diameter)… they are not getting much sun now but do fruit. I am going to clear around them so they get more sun.

The smaller ones out in my field… that I selected (like the one pictured) are all in full sun. Hopefully they grow fast.

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Here are some of the Hybrid persimmons seeds that I crossed to be grow out this Spring.

Tam Kam nonastringent kaki crossed with 400-5 Rossyanka male offspring can handled the cold to -33F.

Lena DV x 400-5

H-120 DV X 400-5

Meader DV X400-5

Morris Burton DV X 400-5

H-118 DV x 400-5

There will be plenty of new Hybrid persimmons in the next 3 years or so.

Tony

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Some information for everybody:

The original JT-02 cross of: (D.v. Josephine x D.k. Taishu) resulted in (6) trees in the United states. (4) are alive today:

JT-02 = hardy to at least -22 F and fruits then. McKee, KY. USA. Has experienced -26 F in Omaha, NE. and had cambial damage. Has come back above the graft after -33 F Aledo, IL. USA to make a new tree. The rest of the tree was killed except for 2" above the graft on (2 of 2 trees in Illinois, USA.) Will have cambium damage at -25 F which means that either a year or two later the tree will recover from it and return to bright green cambium healthiness vs. brown/dark-green cambial color at winter damage temps.

JBT-06 - hardy to at least -22 F and fruits then. Mckee, KY. USA

NB-21 = Sestronka. Hardy to 0 F. Same as kaki hardiness.

NB-02 = Zima Khurma. Hardy to -16.4 F that we know currently at McKee, KY. USA

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This is great information and I really do appreciate it. But I get confused by contradictions with statements by others.

  1. JT-02 – OK.

  2. JBT-06: In a separate thread, @tonyOmahaz5 says << So far JT-02 crossed one time with Rossyanka male to get JBT-06 offspring. >>.

So is JBT-06 (A) Josephine x Taishu or (B) JT-02 x Rossyanka male?

  1. NB-21 / Sestronka. My notes, for what they are worth, say that NB-21 is Nikita’s Gift x A21. Not Josephine x Taishu.

  2. NB-02 / Zima Khurma. I have no info. But given the name and origin, I assume that one parent is Nikita’s Gift. But I really don’t know.

Focus on #2 & #3 please. Thanks!