you could start an airlayer of the darlene now… pick your longest runner. it would likely root and be ready to plant by fall.
Normally I would have posted this under this thread but I wanted to attract a wide group for their knowledge about snakes. Below is the link.
I actually was wondering about cold damage and thinking the moisture trapping caused by the mulch may have exacerbated it.
This is on the north side actually.
I know it’s impossible to know for sure but what is your opinion on its chances to survive?
Thanks! Yep - it’s a good wake-up call.
I am in middle TN near-ish to Nashville
This morning I did a little pinching back on the Black Beauty vine and connected the electric wire. Hopefully putting the wire in early the night raiders will give up before the fruit is ripe. Lane is loaded and a little less aggressive a grower. BB is in the first picture and Lane is in the second.
If I do replace the Darlene, can anyone recommend a variety that has a bold spicy/musky flavor?
I’ve actually been a little disappointed in both my Ison and Darlene because I got hooked on farmers market muscadines that had a really strong flavor.
These 2 for me have been quite milder in comparison. Sweeter perhaps (sweet is good!) but blander if that makes sense…
My experience with damaged trunks is that it is always better to either re-root the trunk or to grow a new stem from a smaller branch.
Summit is very good for a bronze/pink variety. Paulk would be a good black variety.
Hey @auburn, are your Lane’s coloring up yet? Mine are but not totally purple and still rock hard. How much longer until they are ready? I’m guessing they need to be completely deep purple and have a little give to them when squeezed. Is that accurate?
Coincidentally I was just looking at the UGA PowerPoint on Paulk and was turned off by their own admission of disease susceptibility.
If something is gonna get diseased, my garden will make sure of it LOL
My Lane are still mostly green. Last year I picked my first ripe ones on 20100728 and on 20190808 I picked about a quart. The others on the vine ripened soon afterward. When it starts to soften they are starting to ripen. If they hang on a little longer they will get really sweet.
I haven’t had much disease pressure on any of my vines but Paulk has been a problem child and a poor grower for me and for several people I correspond with.
They will get black and loose their sheen. And if you squeeze them and wonder if they are soft enough…they aren’t. You will know when they are ripe. I ate many of them thinking they were ripe and when I finally let them get ripe I was much more impressed with the taste. It doesn’t hurt to taste test them along. They are good and sweet and crunchy even before being “ripe”. But you’ll know the difference when you get there so don’t pick all of them until you get there.
Looking at the Ison comparison chart, I wonder if Late Fry may be good since it’s rated excellent for disease resistance and cold hardiness, has high yields and good sugar content.
But looking at my Darlene again today, I don’t know that it’s as bad/deep as I thought. Maybe it’ll make it.
I think I’ll wait to see if it totally dies or at least stops fruiting. Then I’ll pull it.
Before you consider late Fry make sure your season is long enough to ripen it…
Right-o … not sure how to know precisely. I’m in 7a, middle TN. It’s usually mild even into mid or late October.
I think Ison’s has info on its website under late Fry
Yep I just saw a blurb about “don’t plant if you have early frosts” but I will look more closely for more detail.
I’m always looking at an alternative. This falls under what do you have to lose. What if you mounded up soil on the truck a few inches above the damaged area. The trunk sends out new roots above the damaged area and recovers. If it recovers your problem is solved.
Will take into consideration
For me Late Fry is not really a late ripening muscadine, it ripens over a long period of time. It would not be good for commercial harvest but is great for getting a handful of grapes everyday until late in the season. It is not that far behind, if at all, of my other muscadines but to get full use of this grape a longer season would help. I don’t need a lot of grapes at one time and prefer uneven ripening, unfortunately this is something most breading programs are trying to get rid of.