Nanaimo peach available for bare root orders

this is a newish variety that’s maybe more leaf curl resistant than others, at least according to this guy’s testing:

if you look through comments on his blog post there are a lot of people upset at how few trees were being propagated. Well, today (Nov 15 2020) OGW put up 100 for pre-order:

and here’s another nursery near seattle listing them:

and fruitwood nursery lists scions (7 in stock):

and this nursery maybe associated with fruitwood in the bay area has an order page but none in stock:

and I think even a local nursery here in Eugene might get some this year

anyway, if you’ve been wanting one of these, there are finally options

does anyone know what the patent and trademark status is for this, or maybe an origin story? my searches haven’t turned up anything


I have Nanaimo planted 5 years ago here on the chilly, fog bound coast of far Northern California. I am most certainly in the curl belt. I planted it following Tom’s experience up on Vashon Island with a halfway similar maritime climate. So far, Nanaimo has been my most curl-prone variety despite a couple shots of copper during the dormant season, but my sample size is limited. It did produce it’s first fruit this past summer and they were decent, through coming off a nasty bout of curl. It did pull through by midsummer and is a thriving vigorous tree. My standout, curl-resistant tree so far has been “Oregon Curl Free” with great fruit and minimal curl. Q1-8 has shown potential on the curl front for me, but has a bout of canker going on the trunk, so time will tell, it did manage several quality peaches this summer (white flesh).

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I agree that Nanaimo shows little curl resistance in my wet NW Washington maritime climate. Plenty of curl even with 5 Bordeaux sprays spaced from November to March.I thought the peaches tasted ok though not great. Decided to keep tree. I’ve tried every curl-resistant tree Raintree has to offer: 15-year-old Q 1-8 with plenty of curl got progressively sicker from bacterial canker; 12-year-old Frost plenty of curl and was oozing from every joint; 10-year-old MaryJane too much curl, 8-year-old Indian Free plenty of curl. Because bacterial canker is also my undoing, I even tried Charlotte but then got bacterial canker and curl.
My best tasting, though not curl resistant even though advertised as such, is my 6-year-old Betty. Great taste. Black Boy seems only partly affected by curl although have yet to get much of a crop from my 6-year-old tree. Even though Black Boy listed as self fertile, planted an Oregon Curl Free nearby for one more go!! Any peaches I get will definitely be worth $25 each!


thanks, those reports are helpful. I guess we’re all looking for the same thing, a silver bullet variety that doesn’t need sprays. I’ve never seen any kind of controlled testing comparing peach varieties so everyone’s experience is going to be a little random

my study of the ag extension guides was interesting. here are two tests of copper vs. ziram:

you can see that copper is better than nothing but ziram is on a whole other level. the other common recommendations are lime sulfur and chlorothalonil. here are the guides I found:

rates lime sulfur and ziram “excellent” and copper “fair to good”


UC IPM: UC Management Guidelines for Peach Leaf Curl on Nectarine “… ziram, chlorothalonil (Echo or Bravo), and dodine (Syllit) when applied at the optimal time. Ziram is most effective.”



Thanks for these links. Two tidbits I picked up: First spray when trees have 50% leaf drop (I was waiting for total leaf drop) and concentration ratio: Bordeaux ratio is 12lbs-12lbs-100g (I was using 10-10-100), and Lime Sulfur ratio is 6g to10g/100g (I was using 5/100). I will up my concentration and alternate these. Now to find a 24hr. window in the PNW.

I can’t imagine your bordeaux ratio mix was off by enough to matter at 10 vs. 12. but lime sulfur 6->10 is a big step up, hopefully that helps. The basic theory of spraying I’ve picked up is that you want coverage during bud break as your #1 priority, so you want copper or ziram/chlorothalonil/etc. + a sticker applied just before bud break, and if it gets rained off then you spray again to maintain coverage around that time. The dormant sprays are more of a knock down to get the previous year’s stuff under control so I don’t think timing on those matters as much

my peaches in eugene have currently lost 100% of leaves, 50%, and 0% depending on the tree, so I’m still waiting to do the first spray

a nursery local to me got these in bare root. so I’m declaring this not a rare variety anymore, it’s available all over the west coast